Re: IML: 61 rear brake drum challenge

Thanks Sherman at least I know I'm not alone . That this has happened to others. After working on this stuck drum for over a month now its easy to believe that its never coming off. After driving the car yesterday which was rather dangerous cause for some reason I had no brake pedal unless I pumped it two or three times. I again try ed to pull the drum. Bad news my second puller broke last night. So I need to buy a new one . maybe I haven't been using the best one . does anyone have a name or location where I can get the best one . also I haven heated the studs yet so Ill try that. I'm not sure How I could apply the dry ice but maybe that will work . there seems to be allot of play in the wheel I'm working on and yet you cant feel any difference in the ride. the funny thing is I have another car a 1947 desotto custom 6 with the same problem . I never got those drums off either. As a matter of pure fact . Ive never got any drums off ever . In the past when i needs brakes a friend did it for me.

He mentioned how hard it was but he was able to do it. Unfortunately he has gotten behind on his child support and in California that a felony and they put him in jail. so he has other things to deal with right now .

Frederick Joslin <fljoslin@xxxxxxxx> wrote:

Has anyone tried cooling instead of or in conjunction with heating.

Dry Ice is available at most supermarkets for $1-2/lb. Dry ice will take the temp down to -110F or -78C for those across the ponds or up North.

Use oven gloves when handling.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sherman D. Taffel"
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: IML: 61 rear brake drum challenge
Date: Mon, 14 May 2007 02:21:11 -0400

Mark- could it be that the drum is 'frozen/rusted at/behind the wheel lug studs? It recently took me 3 days of several hours each day to pull a wire wheel on my 72 E-Jag V-12.

The grease on the splines (plus worn splines) had become like glue and the tapered spline acted like the hub of the center hole on abrake drum. So your heating the center, but what about the drum near the lug nuts themselves?

If the wheel spins, then the shoe distance should be 'OK' as far as pulling the drum.

A few years ago I had a similar challeneg on a simple drum brake on a Jensen GT. 13" wheels, you'd think no pronblem. Had to torch for two weeks around the hub 7 the wheel lugs. RUST welding had taken place.

We had another Jag club member trying to pull a rear drum on a 50's Mark X. Same challenge as yours.

Took him several months- he had to wait till spring (vs the winter) before he had success. The tapered hub was his problem. He found the drum had rusted at the 'hub' as well as around the wheel lug studs. Too bad you can't put the whole car in a freezer, then heat the drum to help it 'pop'.

I remember a friend having the same challenge in 2001 with a 49 Plymouth drum. He had to torch and cool (with water spray from a glass cleaner spray bottle) for several weekends before he had success. He also kept 'tapping' the drum all around while turning it-the idea was to send vibration to the rust to 'break it up'. Just passing on all the things I've seen in this arena.

Obviously 'something' is rusted or binding or sticking- and the challenge is to figure out exactly what it is. keep at it, don't dispair. We are here to give your moral support!

Sherman

> >From: Mark Battesby <a1web@xxxxxxxxxxxxx >
> >Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: Re: IML: 61 Imperial brake drum removal challenge
> >Date: Sat, 12 May 2007 23:05:31 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >yes the wheel has always spun freely the brakes work also . I put the
> >wheel back on and now there is allot of play in the wheel . Im going to
try
> > driving on it again . I took some advise and heated up the shank untill
> >it was glowing hit it with a impact and pounded on it with a big sled
> >hammer , still nothing. I am fearful that i will damage the rear end all
> >this pounding
> >
> >"Sherman D. Taffel" <staffel@xxxxxxxxxxx > wrote: When Clark Thomas & I
> >were trying to remove the brake drums on a 62 Imperial
> >a few years ago, we also had 'a heck of a time'. We had a huge puller and
> >the drum would seem to 'just bind up'. This was after we 'broke it loose.
> >Working carefully and thoughtfully we finally got the drum off. What we
> >found was that the bonded linings had delaminated from the shoe- and
> >'jammed, and were thus 'twisting' as we apllied 'removal force'.
> >
> >Just mentioning this as a possible factor. When you drove the car and
> >braked- did the brakes 'lock' or judder? If so this may be a factor.
> >Are you able to 'spin the wheel' (spin the drum on the axle)?
> >
> >Sherman D Taffel
> >63 Crown
> >Maryland
Fred Joslin