Re: IML: Best oil for 100K mi. '59 413

[sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx]

This subject has surfaced before.After disassembly of many high-mileage engines, (Chrysler) it seems most of the goo, sludge, mung, or what ever you want to call it, is mostly upper end. The valve covers, heads and lifter area.The older engines that use the road draft tube, are worse, since sufficient road speed, and high engine temps were necessary to evacuate the crank-case of nasty by-products of combustion.By flushing, or using a lesser viscosity oil to "Cleanse" the engine, may lead to engine failure.Don't foreget all that junk goes in the oil pump pick-up strainer, which reduces oil flow to the engine.This is truly a"Damned if you do, Damned if you don't" kind of topic. Some have had luck flushing, but we don't do it, as we have seen engine failures afterwards.For summer time a SAE30 would be fine.If it's running OK, then just change oil and go, the most important thing is actually getting the engine up to temp, for several hours.Thats when you can change oil, and g et the rubbish out, a little at a time.Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.

 

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Frederick Joslin" <fljoslin@xxxxxxxx>

I have followed the threads on this question.

I feel that if there is lots of slugde in the engine you should try to get it out. Most of it will probably be in the oil pan. Can you remove the oil pan and clean it? Also clean under the intake manifold.

I have used the engine cleaning solutions (basically kerosine) and they do clean the engine. You must make sure that you do not run the engine too long or with any load. At idle for 5 min works.

 

Clean oil is the best solvent for sludge. Frequent oil changes with a good detergent oil should really help.

 

Good luck

 

       

----- Original Message -----
From: "Klebert L. Hall"
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: Best oil for 100K mi. '59 413
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2007 18:18:10 -0400


> From: "webmaster"
> Subject: IML: What is the best oil to use in a 100,000 mile '59 413 ?
>
> I now realize that the problems I have encountered are from changing the
> oil on my car. I used a 10w-40w detergent oil and it has gummed up the
> hydraulic lifters on my car, bending push rods etc.
> After having the heads/valves done the culprit was stuck lifters. In order
> to not do further damage I will probably use a non-detergent oil which
> is what was probably there in the first place. My concern is that keeping
> a detergent oil inside will only continue to put the grime back into it and
> cau se further problems.
> What oil grade should I use for summer driving? This is the only time I
> use this car.


Wierd, I never had any trouble with detergent oil in my '63 or '62.

SAE 30 was probably what they originally specified.
-Kle.
'69 Crown 4DHT (napping)
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Fred Joslin