Rob,I'm about to do the same thing for a different reason. My passenger side front window stopped working. I switched the switch and the motor to the rear door and both work. I figure it's either the wiring from the switch to the motor, or more likely the wiring from the circuit breaker to the switch. Where the wiring leaves the car and goes into the door seems the likely culprit. Good luck with your wiring gremlin. I' hoping a cracked wire jumps out at me.
Tom----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 5:21 AM Subject: Re: IML: The half-lit dome light
Hello again Joe, I haven't found the problem yet. Bad weather and lots of rain made me stay away from the car that is parked on my drive way outside :( Dutch garages just aren't big enough for 1960 Imperials I am afraid. If weather permits, I will have a look this weekend. I also have to replace the backup light switch then, you know the one that is mounted on the pushbutton assembly. You are right, cutting wires is a little drastic :) I only cut the wires from the rear door post switches to see what happens (those wires are easy accessible when you remove the sill plates on both sides). But the light still stays on. As you suggested, I will try to remove the tape from the wire bundle at the front passenger door to see what is wrong there. I think one of the motor leads of the power window motor, or a wire at the powerlock switch is at fault. Ofcourse I will let the group know what was wrong, as soon as I have found the error! Robert Op Wo, 20 juni, 2007 12:05 am, schreef Joe Strickland:Rob; Did you ever find the cause/solution for the dome light being at half brightness? You mentioned the possibility of cutting wires which sounded drastic. Perhaps by removing the electrical tape or other protective wrapping around the bundle of wires going to/from the passenger door you could move or flex individual wires until you find the offending wire. Then the wire could be replaced and the bundle of wires secured together again with electrical tape or whatever was originally used. The way the dome lamp circuit works is that there is 12 volts DC alwayspresent on the pink wiring to the lamp and the yellow wire coming from the lamp receptacle is the side that gets grounded to turn the lamp on. As youmentioned before, any other item that were to short to the yellow lead such as a motor winding etc. could make the lamp turn on at reduced brightness. If you have to replace a section of wire, be sure to get the same AWGgauge and try to find wire that has the same number and size of individualstrands that make up the overall AWG gauge size. I hope you find a solution. Joe S. ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxTo UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
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