Re: IML: The half-lit dome light

["Dave Wilker" <wilkerbeast01@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Rob

Have you used a volt meter to see what sort of voltage levels are on the 
contacts and at light socket?



David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 2:21 AM
Subject: Re: IML: The half-lit dome light


> Hello again Joe,
>
> I haven't found the problem yet. Bad weather and lots of rain made me stay
> away from the car that is parked on my drive way outside :(
> Dutch garages just aren't big enough for 1960 Imperials I am afraid.
>
> If weather permits, I will have a look this weekend. I also have to
> replace the backup light switch then, you know the one that is mounted on
> the pushbutton assembly.
>
> You are right, cutting wires is a little drastic :)
> I only cut the wires from the rear door post switches to see what happens
> (those wires are easy accessible when you remove the sill plates on both
> sides). But the light still stays on.
>
> As you suggested, I will try to remove the tape from the wire bundle at
> the front passenger door to see what is wrong there.
> I think one of the motor leads of the power window motor, or a wire at the
> powerlock switch is at fault.
>
> Ofcourse I will let the group know what was wrong, as soon as I have found
> the error!
>
> Robert
>
> Op Wo, 20 juni, 2007 12:05 am, schreef Joe Strickland:
> > Rob;
> >
> >
> > Did you ever find the cause/solution for the dome light being at half
> > brightness?  You mentioned the possibility of cutting wires which sounded
> > drastic.  Perhaps by removing the electrical tape or other protective
> > wrapping around the bundle of wires going to/from the passenger door you
> > could move or flex individual wires until you find the offending wire.
> > Then the wire could be replaced and the bundle of
> > wires secured together again with electrical tape or whatever was
> > originally used.
> >
> > The way the dome lamp circuit works is that there is 12 volts DC always
> > present on the pink wiring to the lamp and the yellow wire coming from 
> > the
> > lamp receptacle is the side that gets grounded to turn the lamp on. As 
> > you
> > mentioned before, any other item that were to short to the yellow lead
> > such as a motor winding etc. could make the lamp turn on at reduced
> > brightness.
> >
> > If you have to replace a section of wire, be sure to get the same AWG
> > gauge and try to find wire that has the same number and size of 
> > individual
> > strands that make up the overall AWG gauge size.
> >
> > I hope you find a solution.
> >
> >
> > Joe S.
> >
> >
> >
> > -----------------  http://www.imperialclub.com  -----------------
> > This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please
> > reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared
> > with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators
> > should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to
> > http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
>
>
>
>
> -----------------  http://www.imperialclub.com  -----------------
> This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please
> reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be
> shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
> Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm



-----------------  http://www.imperialclub.com  -----------------
This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please 
reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be 
shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm