Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and Torsion Bar Adjustment

[randalpark@xxxxxxx]

Excellent! That is the way it is suppose to be. The handling 
characteristics will greatly improve, particularly on the highway. The 
ease of the adjustment means that your car apparently has not be 
subjected to abuse and poor storage over the years. Dirt and corrosion 
are usually the culprits here.

I think since one of the major features of our cars was the way that 
they handle, we should do our best to preserve and maintain that 
feature as close to original as possible. When in correct adjustment 
and properly maintained, there are few driving experiences more 
satisfying than an Imperial on a good road at high way speed. Second to 
that would be the satisfaction in stopping the car when the brakes are 
in proper working order. They are quick, confident, and smooth, as long 
as they are not over heated.

Paul W.


-----Original Message-----
From: Rob van der Es <R.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 1:26 pm
Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and Torsion Bar Adjustment


Hello to all of you that helped me with the mysterous lowered 1960 
Imperial ! 
 
Today I was finally able to have a look at the car, since it was dry 
after 2 weeks of rain... 
 
After the jacking the car up with the frontwheels from the ground and 
securing the frame with axle stands, I closely examinend the lower 
front suspension arm and especially the bushing of the arm. Everything 
looks great to me, then I had a look at the rear crossmember : you 
know, where the torsionbar anchors are located. 
 
This section was OK too, so I thought what the heck: lets try to turn 
those adjusters! 
 
I was warned by a couple members not to strip the fine threads of the 
bolts and the swivels since they normally are very dificult turn. 
 
Guess what ? They were both quite easy to turn, ok I needed a large bar 
for my socket to turn those adjuster bolts but was still able to turn 
them with one hand only! 
 
I turned both of them 4 turns clockwise (turned them 'in' so to speak), 
I lowered the car again to check my work and surprise, surprise the 
front end was 2 inches higher now! 
I decided that I was still lacking 2 inches of ground play in the front 
so I jacked up the car again and gave those adjusters another 4 turns . 
 
And after 8 turns on both adjusters the car has now the right front end 
ride height! 
I don't know why I had to adjust the height so much, and don't know why 
the car has dropped in the first place but I am very happy that the car 
could be adjusted to its correct height so easy! 
 
I already made a test drive and the car even handles better then 
before! Especially the straight line stability is much better now the 
front is raised by 4 inches ( noticable from speeds of 55 mph and 
higher), and it looks a lot better too :) 
 
All of you that have helped me with this isue: a big thank you and lots 
of kudo's!! 
 
This is one great List!! 
 
Have a nice weekend, 
 
Robert 
----- Original Message ----- From: <randalpark@xxxxxxx> 
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 4:01 PM 
Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and Torsion Bar Adjustment 
 
My shop has been able to make the correct adjustments to all of my 
Imperials without damaging any parts. This seems to have more to do 
with the skill level of the shop than the age of the car. I understand 
that there may not be many shops in Europe that are familiar with a '60 
Imperial. Still, there must be shops that specialize in front 
suspension work. A good shop would look over the car, determine what 
parts were needed, and then give you a list. They wouldn't take 
anything apart (a tie up their space) until you came back with what was 
required. I think a good shop could study the manual and figure out 
your car. 
 
Unless you are inclined to want to do this yourself, I think it is 
worth looking for a GOOD shop that is willing to work on your car. 
 
Paul W. 
 
-----Original Message----- 
From: Rob van der Es <R.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
Sent: Sat, 23 Jun 2007 12:12 am 
Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and Torsion Bar Adjustment 
 
 
Hmmm, 
 
 
That is indeed the last option to choose from :) 
 
I will take care not to damage anything I promise, but then this stuff 
is 47 years old... 
 
At least I hope these bolts don't break while turning them after Lord 
knows how many years.. 
 
 
Thanks again and lots of kuddo's to all, 
 
 
Rob 
 
----- Original Message ----- 
 
From: Frederick Joslin 
 
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
 
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 2:47 AM 
 
Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and Torsion Bar Adjustment 
 
 
Hi Robert: 
 
 
I was going to put this in the previous post but chose not to. 
 
You can get new over sized bolts and drill and tap the anchors to fit 
the new bolts. 
 
This is probably the last option that you want to take, but it would 
work. 
 
Also, if you go this way you can use metric stuff if you want. 
 
 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rob van der Es" 
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and Torsion Bar Adjustment 
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2007 22:49:46 +0200 
 
Thanks a lot Fred!, 
 
 
But what if I strip the threads of the anchors then? I am not to 
worried about the bolts you see, a good hardware dealer can supply 
those I am sure. 
 
 
But are those T-bar anchors still available? 
 
Does anyone have a source in case I need them? 
 
Ofcourse I can ask Lowell or Bob, but if I prefer new ones, are they 
still available ? 
 
 
Thanks again, 
 
 
Rob 
 
----- Original Message ----- 
 
From: Frederick Joslin 
 
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
 
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 5:27 PM 
 
Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and Torsion Bar Adjustment 
 
 
Robert: 
 
I believe that you can fully remove the adjuster bolts and then replace 
them with no problem. I would apply penetrating oil and then remove 
them from the car. It is easier to remove them than tighten them if 
they are a littl fouled. Clean up the threads with solvent and a wire 
brush and check the condition. 
 
 
When adjusting the height up count the number of turns it takes. If 
both torsion bars are in about the same condition, it should take close 
to the same number of turns for a level front end. You can adjust the 
bolts with the front end off the ground and then lower it to chech the 
ride height. I would suggest this since it put less stress on the bolts 
(and on you). 
 
Note that you may have some "worn out" threads especially from rust, 
but if they are in a section of the bolt that you do not need to "bite" 
into for your ride height that will not matter. What you have to do is 
get past that section. This is not ideal, but if it is all you can 
do........ 
 
 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rob van der Es" 
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and Torsion Bar Adjustment 
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2007 16:34:35 +0200 
 
Hello again Joe, 
 
Thanks for your kind suggestions! 
 
I will certainly take care not to strip the 
fine threads of the adjuster bolts and the 
anchors. 
I will clean them thoroughly and soak them for a while with penetrating 
oil. 
 
I have had a long search for replacement bolts 
and anchors but I haven't found any .. 
So I hope that my adjusters are not stripped 
already , causing the low front end! 
 
Ofcourse I will have a look at the front lower 
suspension arms too while I am there, just to 
make sure that the bushings are still there and 
in good condition. 
 
Thanks again, 
 
Robert 
----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe 
Strickland" 
To: "Imperial Mail List" 
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 3:42 PM 
Subject: IML: A-arm Bushings and Torsion Bar Adjustment 
 
> Rob; 
>  
> Before you begin adjusting your torsion bars, 
> see if you can clean the threads of the 
> adjusting bolts with some brake cleaner or 
> perhaps kerosene to get as much dirt etc. off 
> of the threads as possible. Use of an old 
> toothbrush or something similar might help. 
> Then use a liberal application of penetrating 
> oil on the adjusting bolts and levers and let 
> them soak for a day or so before trying to 
> make the adjustments. You might want to 
> re-apply the penetrating oil to the bolts 
> more than one time. It may be a real problem 
> if you stripped threads on the bolts and/or 
> the adjusting arm of the torsion bars. You 
> might be able to find replacements, but there 
> could be a long time to find replacements. 
>  
> Be sure to examine the A-arm bushings for 
> missing chunks or completely gone bushings. 
> As I mentioned before when these bushings 
> disintegrate and fall out it allows the 
> associated metal parts of the A-arms and 
> steering elements to shift position enough 
> that the steering parts (especially the idler 
> arm and the steering pitman arm) to shift 
> position and get in quite a bind while 
> steering the car. You certainly don't want 
> to wind up with a broken idler arm stud or 
> pitman arm stud while driving down the road! 
> Complete loss of control might result, with a 
> crash into another car or into a pedestrian 
> or bicycle rider. 
>  
> Joe S. 
>  
>  
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Fred Joslin 
 
 
 
 
Fred Joslin 
 
 
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