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Hi Tom,
You might have hit the nail on the head here
:)
The most suspension shops I know cannot handle such
a wide car as a 1960 Imperial.
I will be looking for a good truck suspension shop
then!
Thanks again,
Rob
P.S.: any news on that rebuild starter
yet?
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and
Torsion Bar Adjustment
Rob...you may want to check out an over the road
truck suspension place. I have to take my pickup truck to such a place
because the track is too wide.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 2:57
AM
Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and
Torsion Bar Adjustment
Thanks David,
I am already looking for a shop that can do a
front wheel aligment on a 1960 Imp.
But those are hard to find, I can assure you
that!!
Oh well, maybe I have to learn to do it myself
:)
Thanks,
Robert
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 1:52
AM
Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and
Torsion Bar Adjustment
Robert
Don't forget to get the
front end geometry checked. I would take the specs to a
real front end shop and get the oldest
guy in there to do it.
David C. Wilker
Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message
-----
Sent: Saturday, June 30,
2007 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: IML: A-arm
Bushings and Torsion Bar Adjustment
> Hello to all of you that helped me with the mysterous lowered
1960 Imperial
> !
>
> Today I was finally able to have
a look at the car, since it was dry after 2
> weeks of
rain...
>
> After the jacking the car up with the frontwheels
from the ground and
> securing the frame with axle stands, I
closely examinend the lower front
> suspension arm and especially
the bushing of the arm. Everything looks great
> to me, then I had
a look at the rear crossmember : you know, where the
> torsionbar
anchors are located.
>
> This section was OK too, so I
thought what the heck: lets try to turn those
> adjusters!
>
> I was warned by a couple members not to strip the fine threads of
the bolts
> and the swivels since they normally are very dificult
turn.
>
> Guess what ? They were both quite easy to
turn, ok I needed a large bar for
> my socket to turn those
adjuster bolts but was still able to turn them with
> one hand
only!
>
> I turned both of them 4 turns clockwise (turned
them 'in' so to speak), I
> lowered the car again to check my work
and surprise, surprise the front end
> was 2 inches higher
now!
> I decided that I was still lacking 2 inches of ground play in
the front so I
> jacked up the car again and gave those adjusters
another 4 turns .
>
> And after 8 turns on both adjusters the
car has now the right front end ride
> height!
> I don't know
why I had to adjust the height so much, and don't know why the
>
car has dropped in the first place but I am very happy that the car could
be
> adjusted to its correct height so easy!
>
> I
already made a test drive and the car even handles better then before!
> Especially the straight line stability is much better now the
front is
> raised by 4 inches ( noticable from speeds of 55 mph and
higher), and it
> looks a lot better too :)
>
> All of
you that have helped me with this isue: a big thank you and lots of
> kudo's!!
>
> This is one great List!!
>
> Have a nice weekend,
>
> Robert
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: <randalpark@xxxxxxx>
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007
4:01 PM
> Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and Torsion Bar
Adjustment
>
>
> My shop has been able to make the
correct adjustments to all of my
> Imperials without damaging any
parts. This seems to have more to do
> with the skill level of the
shop than the age of the car. I understand
> that there may not be
many shops in Europe that are familiar with a '60
> Imperial. Still,
there must be shops that specialize in front
> suspension work. A
good shop would look over the car, determine what
> parts were
needed, and then give you a list. They wouldn't take
> anything
apart (a tie up their space) until you came back with what was
>
required. I think a good shop could study the manual and figure
out
> your car.
>
> Unless you are inclined to want to
do this yourself, I think it is
> worth looking for a GOOD shop that
is willing to work on your car.
>
> Paul W.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rob van der Es
<R.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Sat, 23 Jun 2007 12:12 am
>
Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and Torsion Bar Adjustment
>
>
>
> Hmmm,
>
>
>
> That
is indeed the last option to choose from :)
>
> I will take
care not to damage anything I promise, but then this stuff
> is 47
years old...
>
> At least I hope these bolts don't break
while turning them after Lord
> knows how many years..
>
>
>
> Thanks again and lots of kuddo's to
all,
>
>
>
> Rob
>
>
>
----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Frederick
Joslin
>
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007
2:47 AM
>
> Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and Torsion Bar
Adjustment
>
>
>
>
> Hi Robert:
>
>
>
> I was going to put this in the previous post
but chose not to.
>
> You can get new over sized bolts and
drill and tap the anchors to fit
> the new bolts.
>
>
This is probably the last option that you want to take, but it
would
> work.
>
> Also, if you go this way you can use
metric stuff if you want.
>
>
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Rob van der Es"
> To:
mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and
Torsion Bar Adjustment
> Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2007 22:49:46
+0200
>
>
> Thanks a lot Fred!,
>
>
>
> But what if I strip the threads of the anchors then? I
am not to
> worried about the bolts you see, a good hardware dealer
can supply
> those I am sure.
>
>
>
> But
are those T-bar anchors still available?
>
> Does anyone have
a source in case I need them?
>
> Ofcourse I can ask Lowell
or Bob, but if I prefer new ones, are they
> still available
?
>
>
>
> Thanks again,
>
>
>
> Rob
>
>
> ----- Original Message
-----
>
> From: Frederick Joslin
>
> To:
mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 5:27
PM
>
> Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and Torsion Bar
Adjustment
>
>
>
>
> Robert:
>
> I believe that you can fully remove the adjuster bolts and then
replace
> them with no problem. I would apply penetrating oil and
then remove
> them from the car. It is easier to remove them than
tighten them if
> they are a littl fouled. Clean up the threads with
solvent and a wire
> brush and check the condition.
>
>
>
> When adjusting the height up count the number of turns
it takes. If
> both torsion bars are in about the same condition, it
should take close
> to the same number of turns for a level front
end. You can adjust the
> bolts with the front end off the ground
and then lower it to chech the
> ride height. I would suggest this
since it put less stress on the bolts
> (and on you).
>
> Note that you may have some "worn out" threads especially from
rust,
> but if they are in a section of the bolt that you do not
need to "bite"
> into for your ride height that will not matter.
What you have to do is
> get past that section. This is not ideal,
but if it is all you can
> do........
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rob van der
Es"
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and
Torsion Bar Adjustment
> Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2007 16:34:35
+0200
>
>
> Hello again Joe,
>
> Thanks
for your kind suggestions!
>
> I will certainly take care not
to strip the
> fine threads of the adjuster bolts and the
>
anchors.
> I will clean them thoroughly and soak them for a while
with penetrating
> oil.
>
> I have had a long search
for replacement bolts
> and anchors but I haven't found any
..
> So I hope that my adjusters are not stripped
> already ,
causing the low front end!
>
> Ofcourse I will have a look at
the front lower
> suspension arms too while I am there, just
to
> make sure that the bushings are still there and
> in good
condition.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Robert
>
----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe
> Strickland"
> To:
"Imperial Mail List"
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 3:42 PM
>
Subject: IML: A-arm Bushings and Torsion Bar Adjustment
>
>
>> Rob;
>>
>> Before you begin adjusting your
torsion bars,
>> see if you can clean the threads of
the
>> adjusting bolts with some brake cleaner or
>>
perhaps kerosene to get as much dirt etc. off
>> of the threads
as possible. Use of an old
>> toothbrush or something similar
might help.
>> Then use a liberal application of
penetrating
>> oil on the adjusting bolts and levers and
let
>> them soak for a day or so before trying to
>>
make the adjustments. You might want to
>> re-apply the
penetrating oil to the bolts
>> more than one time. It may be a
real problem
>> if you stripped threads on the bolts
and/or
>> the adjusting arm of the torsion bars. You
>>
might be able to find replacements, but there
>> could be a long
time to find replacements.
>>
>> Be sure to examine the
A-arm bushings for
>> missing chunks or completely gone
bushings.
>> As I mentioned before when these
bushings
>> disintegrate and fall out it allows the
>>
associated metal parts of the A-arms and
>> steering elements to
shift position enough
>> that the steering parts (especially the
idler
>> arm and the steering pitman arm) to shift
>>
position and get in quite a bind while
>> steering the car. You
certainly don't want
>> to wind up with a broken idler arm stud
or
>> pitman arm stud while driving down the road!
>>
Complete loss of control might result, with a
>> crash into
another car or into a pedestrian
>> or bicycle
rider.
>>
>> Joe S.
>>
>>
>>
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>
>
>
> ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com -----------------
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>
>
>
>
>
>
> Fred Joslin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Fred Joslin
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
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> =0
>
>
>
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>
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