SV: IML: '62 Brake System Repair
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SV: IML: '62 Brake System Repair
- From: "hasse" <tamnes@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 07:46:30 +0200
Hello.
Here in Sweden I can buy brake lines ready to my car. It's uni pipes but
they are the right size and length these pipes I can get from a company here
in Sweden Hansen Racing. I could try to figure out what the company's name
is that makes the pipes, some one in US has to have the same pipes.
I fixt my brakes on my 60 Imperial for 2 weeks ago and got master cylinder
and all wheel cylinders front and back and all pipes for about 400 dollar
here in Sweden.
And now I have weary good brakes :-)
Hasse.
1960 Imperial 2D HT Black.
-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Från: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] För mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx
Skickat: den 9 augusti 2007 04:21
Till: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Kopia: randalpark@xxxxxxx
Ämne: Re: IML: '62 Brake System Repair
Be sure that you use a double flar tool if you make up you own lines.
---- randalpark@xxxxxxx wrote:
> The car did not come with a proportioning valve, and I think you will
> have to make you own metal lines. I haven't seen any NOS made for the
> Imperial in recent years. Get a tube bender, they are not difficult to
> make. Be sure to clean out the brass "T" s as they can collect crap
> which could spoil your brake job once it travels through the system.
>
> Paul W.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Strickland <jwstrick426@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 9:52 am
> Subject: IML: '62 Brake System Repair
>
>
>
> To all who responded - Thanks.
>
> No, I did not mean to imply that I was going to re-use what was there,
> just that
> I am curious to see what shape they are in. All the wheel cylinders
> had been
> replaced back in '99 on this car. The master cylinder was sent out to
> a repair
> facility which advertised in Hemmings and was re-sleeved with stainless
> steel at
> that time. I don't think new master cylinders are avialable, but I
> will check.
> I intend to replace wheel cylinders if I can find new ones. If not it
> might be
> time to send them off to be re-sleeved too. In any case all the
> internal parts
> would have to be replaced to get good sealing under load. I plan to
> check with
> my local NAPA store or AutoZone or O'Reiley's to see what I can find as
> new
> replacements. If I don't find parts available locally, then it will
> probably be
> Andy Bernbaum or others listed on the club website. NAPA charged
> $61.37 plus
> tax for a set of flex hoses.
>
> I was successful in removing the left rear drum this morning. The
> hub/drum
> puller worked its magic. The drum came off relatively easily. There
> was much
> less struggle that when Jim Payne and I worked on his 61 Le Baron using
> a J. C.
> Whitney hub/drum puller. Not only was there less struggle, the
> pressure
> applying bolt stayed centered on the axle shaft like it should have.
> Once I had
> enough pressure applied I used light taps of a 3 lb. sledge hammer all
> the way
> around the stamped steel portion of the drum assembly and also near the
> lug
> studs and it popped loose. The large castle nut and washer kept it
> from flying
> off. Then some additional pressure from the bolt on the puller got the
> drum off
> after the castle nut and washer had been removed.
>
> It might be a good idea to take wheel cylinders along when I try to get
> parts
> ordered. Sometimes parts catalogs of vendors show pictures as well as
> listing
> in a table. Here are the Chrysler part numbers that I believe are
> correct for
> the '62 Imperial:
> Rear Wheel Cylinders 1857 051, both left and right
> Front Wheel Cylinders 1857 055, Front upper left
> 1857 053, Front lower left
> 1857 054, Front upper right
> 1857 052, Front lower right
>
> The left rear wheel cylinder bore shows considerable rust along the
> bottom edge
> toward the extreme travel position of one of the pistons. It looks bad
> enough
> that honing would probably not correct the pitting. I expect the other
> wheel
> cylinders will be in similar condition.
>
> An interesting discovery I made when I got the left rear drum off was
> that the
> rear leading shoe wheel cylinder boot was cooked to the point of being
> cracked
> and brittle. The rear following shoe wheel cylinder boot was not quite
> so
> damaged. The the leading shoe showed almost no wear, but the following
> shoe
> showed considerable wear and some evidence of overheating. I believe
> that when
> Preston Chrysler worked on the car years ago that the mechanic who
> serviced it
> did not know how to properly adjust the rear following shoes and had
> them too
> tight. That is probably why the brakes smoked badly when I drove it
> home. At
> the time I did not have a service manual for the car and did not bother
> to check
> the adjustment of each wheel myself. I wish I had now. I may have bee
> enjoying
> the car for the last eight years instead of letting it sit and
> deteriorate.
>
> All rear brake adjusters seem to have adequate resistance to turning.
> I don't
> think the tension on them is bad. I do think it would be best to have
> new brake
> shoe return springs on the car, especially the rear brakes. After
> getting the
> rear brake drums so hot it may have caused the springs to loose some of
> their
> tension.
>
> One of my biggest fears at this point is that both rear drums may have
> been
> warped by the drive home after the dealer worked on it. By the time I
> got the
> car home smoke was pouring out from both rear wheels. The front brakes
> continued to enable me to stop OK. I did get some replacement rear
> drums from
> Bob Hoffmeister years ago.
>
> I have a friend who said he would help me make new brake line tubes,
> unless one
> of our vendors listed on the club website has reproductions available.
> Has
> anyone checked for brake lines on the '62 models?
>
> I haven't looked yet, but is there a proportioning valve for front to
> rear brake
> pressure balance? I am guessing that it would have been made of brass
> and not
> too likely to go bad. Ditto for the rear axle "T". I don't want to
> crawl
> around under the car anymore than I have to at this point.
>
> Joseph W. Strickland
> 1021 Vaughan Lane
> Tioga, TX 76271-2937
>
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