RE: IML: non starting 1983 EFI

[<DickB@xxxxxxxxx>]

You can check your ballast resistor with an ohm-meter - I would do that
before replacing it  - they very seldom fail unless a terminal has worked
loose or some other easily seen and diagnosed physical problem is evident.
There are no tricky parts here - it is simply a length of resistance wire
connected to each terminal.  The white stuff is merely an insulating medium
- because the wire gets HOT!

I am suspicious of the ground connection on your ASDM, since this was the
last thing fiddled with.  I'd remove that wire and inspect both ends of it,
making sure that there is nothing but clean, bright metal contact to the
ASDM metal case and the alternator bracket or other known solid ground
point.  If you have the equipment to do it, solder both ends to the terminal
lugs, don't trust "crimped on" connectors! 

If this doesn't fix it, try this:  Loosen the wing nut in the center of the
air cleaner lid, and put about 1 or 2 ounces of gas in the depression, let
it drain down the threads of the screw, then tighten the wing nut and
immediately try to start the car normally,   If it starts right up, we know
the problem was lack of fuel.  If it continues to run well until the next
time you need to start it, and then refuses to start again, we know that the
problem is lack of fuel during cranking.

The next thing to check is to put a test light or a meter on the dark green
wire that goes back to the in-tank pump.   While you are trying to start it,
there should be 12 volts on this point.  You should also hear the control
fuel pump (in the air cleaner HSA) cycle on and off when you first twist the
key to "on".  (sort of a 1 second "grunt" from the air cleaner area).

If this all seems correct, next check to see if the 23 volt power supply is
running (you'll have to use a meter to do this - the test light would
overload the power supply)?  I hope you have a wiring diagram (it's in the
manuals) so you can find these points.

If there is no 12 volts going back to the in-tank pump, the ASDM has tripped
- and you will have to cycle the key off and then back on to try again - if
still no 12 volts there, it is possible the ASDM has failed - you can bypass
it for testing purposes, although you will not have all the built in safety
of the original system.   To bypass it, just unplug the harness to the ASDM
and connect a wire between the two heavy wires on the plug that goes to the
ASDM - this tells the system to "do it - dammit and forget all the safety
lockouts".

Dick Benjamin

-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Bill Longest
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 8:23 AM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: IML: non starting 1983 EFI


My 1983 stalled on me today.  It had been doing fine
for the last 8 months once I grounded the shut down
module to the radiator support.  Last week I decided
to fix my horn and I moved the horn ground wire and
the horn worked.  However the car began to "shut
down".  It shut down twice but always started after a
few minutes. So, I moved the shut down module ground
wire to the alternator ground as Dick B. had said to
do in the website notes. Ran fine for one day.  This
morning it stopped and would not restart even after an
hour.  I have pulled the ballast resistor and I am
attempting to find a five prong resister, but NAPA
does not have one in their books or on the shelf. 

It seems to shut down about 5 min after starting and
was  not shutting down again for the entire trip.

But, as I said, today is will not restart. Any other
ideas?

Bill Longest




       
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