Re: IML: harmonic balancer bolt removal

[sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx]

For those without air compressors, or those that do in field work, we use a dive tank and regulator set-up that will run air tools, inflate tires etc, without running back to an a compressor after one tire. We've used it many times to pull balancers on diesel engines, while still in the boat, and even pulled props under water with throw-away impact tools. Total cost, about $250 for used gear. 80-100 cu.ft.@ 3000psi just a thought, Dave.

 

-------------- Original message --------------
From: <mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx>

> Should have said that this is the safest way if you do not have a air gun. I
> have alway been able to remove them with the air gun. It I did not have ascess
> to a air gun then this is the way that I do it.
> ---- mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> > The safest way it to install a wedge shaped piece of wood between the flywheel
> and bell housing forcing it in far enough to hold in place then take a breaker
> bar and or cheater bar extension and remove the bolt. The piece of wood can
> then be removed and the job finished.
> > ---- smoorehouse@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> > > Im no expert but from my own experience I used an newmatic impact gun and it
> did the trick but I started by soaking it with penetrating oil and I think I
> remember installing a bolt on the torque plate or flywheel that hit the housing
> stopping it from rotating I did this over 15 years ago but Im pretty sure Im
> remembering it properly
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: mike and linda sutton
> > > Date: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 21:42
> > > Subject: IML: harmonic balancer bolt removal
> > > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >
> > > > Ive gritted my teeth on this one for a few days, thinking " yeah
> > > > that might
> > > > work ok....." but personally I dont think Id use the starter
> > > > motor to break
> > > > the balancer bolt loose. Today someone posted the same
> > > > reason, the teeth on
> > > > the ring gear that are on the torque converter might not like
> > > > that. They
> > > > probably wouldnt break, but if it did break a gear tooth
> > > > off of the ring
> > > > gear youre looking at 10 times the work in comparison to
> > > > something as simple
> > > > as a timing cover on a big block Mopar. The starter itself
> > > > wouldnt be much
> > > > of an issue, but that ring gear means a transmission or engine
> > > > removal, or
> > > > at least splitting the trans from the engine and moving it back
> > > > a few
> > > > inches.
> > > >
> > > > Having owned and removed more small and big block mopar timing
> > > > chains than I
> > > > care to remember, I finally took an old crank pulley and welded
> > > > a steel bar
> > > > about 2 ft long a cross it. I bolt that pulley on the balancer,
> > > > let the steel
> > > > bar rotate with the crank till it hits the frame rail and that
> > > > holds the
> > > > crank from turning. Easier than fighting with trying to hold the
> > > > ring gear,
> > > > works when you dont have an impact wrench available and is
> > > > pretty hard to
> > > > break anything with this.
> > > >
> > > > Hope this helps,
> > > >
> > > > Mikey
> > > >
> > > >
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