RE: IML: exhaust manifold studs for chrysler Big Block 413

Yes, this is the same idea as heating a frozen bolt/nut with a torch and then covering it quickly with a cold wet rag. The thermal shock will expand and contract the bolt, breaking the bond of the rust etc. Just be careful as rapidly cooling any cast iron may cause cracking. I would first just try heating red hot with a torch and letting it cool slightly in air. Then try to undo the nut/bolt. If you have room and can see the end of the stud, you can also weld a nut at the end of the broken stud and use a socket.

TomC

From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Geoff Simpson
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 12:00 PM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: IML: exhaust manifold studs for chrysler Big Block 413

To all traumatised exhaust manifold people here s a tip I got from an Irish fella who was doing exhuasts for a living;
Before you attempt to undo the flange nuts /bolts spray them with water while they are still at running temp. He had a garden spray pump on hand and said he never had broken bolt problems. unlike myself who almost always did. No more. Geoff Simpson

To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: exhaust manifold studs for chrysler Big Block 413
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 12:59:43 -0500
From: spicemanii@xxxxxxx

If you cannot get a broken stud, anyone, I have removed them with ease from a simple tool. A Dremel tool. I use a disc cutter and carefully make an even, straight slot across the broken stud and try to not cut the block as the iron will cut easy. Use a disc almost the size of the blade of a stubby screwdriver. Sometimes it will come out easy. If not, I then use a vise grips on the blade of the screwdriver and it will help twist is off. For those cars in the salted areas of the world, I have never had to remove one of those as salt here is for food, not roads. So, good luck, joe machado
ps, the studs should be the same for a 440, but not the magnum engines with the high rise manifolds. They use a nut that is longer and is hollow to be installed over the stud in the head.

-----Original Message-----
From: pnkmoore@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <pnkmoore@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 7:25 am
Subject: IML: exhaust manifold studs for chrysler Big Block 413

What are "brash nuts" or was that just a typo? Are they something miraculous that will dispense with the danger of frozen manifold nuts/broken studs?

Patrick

Rob van der Es wrote:
> Hi list,
>
> I have finally found myself a good driverside exhaust manifold for my > 1960 Imperial.
> Last summer I broke the flange of my original manifold (front pipe hit > a large roadbump..) and although it was welded again it still leaks a > little (problably a warped flange due to welding....).
>
> During the removal I snapped 3 manifold studs, they were broken off > flush with the head.
> I was able to remove two studs by drilling them out carefully, without > damaging the threads.
> Since I couldn't find the manifold studs anywhere I used bolts then to > secure the welded manifold again.
> The third broken stud couldn't be removed at that time, there was (and > is..) no room for a conventional drill.
> This is the last one on the driverside of the car.
> Recently I found my self an angled drill (90 degrees head, total > tickness only 3 inches!), so I should be able to drill that last one > out too! (after preparing myself mentally for this terrible job..)
>
> Then I will be finally able to mount an original exhaust manifold > without any repaired cracks :)
> And to do the job real good, I want to replace my 3 broken studs with > new ones.
>
> Does anyone have a source where I can buy
>
> a) 3 new exhaust manifolds studs (stainless steel would be great, but > standard will also do)
> b) 6 brash nuts (to avoid future trouble when I ever have to remove > that manifold again, which heaven should forbid!)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robert
> 1960 Imperial 4Dr HT
>
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