Hi Joe, Thanks for your contribution on this subject!I understand the importance of using a proper sealant, since I live in a very wet country called the Weatherlands, ehh the Netherlands I mean :) I noticed that on my 60 Crown a black sealant was used , it has rubberized over the years or maybe it was a rubber sealant that was used. I don't know.. Anyway the connection between the roof trim and the roof is waterproof, otherwise I would have rust stains in my headliner by now. Personally, I don't think that this is the original sealer that the factory has used 48 years ago.. It looks to me if someone has used a sort of window sealant, but it does the job.
If I have to remove the roof trim I would use a modern sealant on a PU base, I think silicone is too agressive! There is a kind of acid in it (smells like vinegar) that can cause severe rust problems. It might be aggressive to your paintjob too! Those modern PU base sealants give a very strong bond (as a matter of fact you can use it as glue), are weatherproof and non agressive. And it is clear as glass!
Water condense shouldn't be too much of a problem since the paint is still flawless, and if the SS inserts are properly sealed I think everything will be safe.
Or at least I hope so :) Robert----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Strickland" <jwstrick426@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Imperial Mail List" <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 5:57 PM Subject: IML: Sealing Imperial Roof and Trunk lid Trim
Along with the discussion of sealing Imperial stainless steel roof panels there is the issue of how the roof trim should be sealed when it is re-installed. On '62 models the standard trunk trim piece is a chrome rib that has several machine threaded studs that are accessed from the bottom side of the trunk lid. The same issue would apply to sealing the roof trim on those years that have the SS roof trim, or even the conventional models that have roof trim pieces that go across the top as in '57-59 models etc. What type of sealer was originally used? Was it 3-M automotive caulking compound? Some of the trim I have seen elsewhere on the '62 I own was a foam plastic pad (usually circular in shape) that fit between the trim and the paint surface of the body part with the fastener on it underneath side of the body part. I have been thinking about how to re-attach various trim pieces that have holes through the body sheet metal. I am leaning toward the possibility of using clear GE silicone caulk. It lasts for 20 years or so and remains flexible. 3-M caulk goes on soft, but eventually dries out. Paul mentions that some of the stainless steel roof panels had a fiber pad underneath them (maybe some of them vibrated in the wind and made a buzzing noise?). Others had the panels electrically spot welded in place. Silicone sealer around the edges might work well and possibly even contact cement to hold the panels against the roof would work too. It would require that a person be careful how much contact cement build-up was added. It would have to be evenly applied to prevent bumps or bulges underneath. Then there is the issue of corrosion. Any water that condenses underneath or somehow gets under the edges of the SS panels would be bound to cause rust. I don't want to rain on anyone's parade, but those are just some thoughts that came to mind. Joe
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