Starting a 68 or 67 (or most 60s and 70s Mopars)

["Mark Blitman" <markblitman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Title: IML: Starting a 68 or 67 (or most 60s and 70s Mopars)

i have been using your starting method for the past few days and getting much better results..it appears i was my own worst enemy by giving it too much gas..thanks for the tip!

 

never really gets that cold here in Tampa although your cold start method applies to me after car has been sitting for 6-8 hours....

 

mark blitman

'74 imp

----- Original Message -----

From: Christopher Hoffman

To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 2:35 AM

Subject: IML: Starting a 68 or 67 (or most 60s and 70s Mopars)

Friends on the IML,

After many years of multiple-Mopar ownership with a variety of carbs and ignition systems, and with mileage on the cars ranging from 16,000 to 123,000 (without the engine ever being apart), here's what I have learned to be normal starting procedure.

I offer this as a goal for those of you getting their Imperials into top running order, and I assure you none of my cars has anything but stock equipment (OK, my '72 Charger has the Mopar Performance electronic ignition), and all use nothing but Autolite spark plugs... All my cars have Carter carbs (one 4-bbl, one 2-bbl, one 4-bbl TQ on an all-original Lean Burn car) except a '63 Dart with a Ball & Ball 1-bbl (about as complex as a drinking cup with a straw in it.)

If the car has sat for more than a week:
1.) Pump the gas firmly and calmly to the floor 5-10 times. This brings fuel back up to the carb, or at least the fuel pump.
2.) Then set the choke by depressing the gas 1/3 of the way down once. Let up.
3.) Hold gas steady (no more pumping) at 1/3 of the way down, and turn key until it starts (which occurs within about 5 seconds for all my cars).
4.) Car should immediately run at fast idle.

If the car is cold but has been driven within a few days:
1.) Set the choke by depressing the gas 1/3 of the way down once. Let up.
2.) Hold gas at 1/3 down, turn key until it starts (which occurs within about 2 or 3 seconds for all my cars).
3.) Car should immediately run at fast idle.

If the car is hot (as with re-starting after a fuel trip on a long drive):
1.) Don't touch the gas.
2.) Turn key until it starts (which occurs virtually immediately for all my cars).
3.) On the rare occasion that hot starting is challenging (which is almost never), I hold the pedal to the floor (no pumping!) until it starts (which occurs within 3-5 seconds).
4.) Car should immediately run at normal (slow) idle.

I offer these thoughts because I have long held the belief that a Chrysler product should not require special equipment or unusual efforts to start, even in extreme weather, and I have taken the measures necessary to achieve this using the stock components. A properly rebuilt and set-up carb (overly rich tuning can make hot starting a nightmare, for example), a good set of Autolite plugs, timing set within 4 degrees of spec, and an ignition coil and wires in good order are all it should require to make any Mopar behave well, unless there is another problem outside of these components (like an aging starter motor with excessive draw, which will often seem like carb trouble during hot re-starts, or a clogged fuel filter, or bad gas).

If this doesn't solve your problem, you owe it to yourself to try and get the original systems in working order. Thermoquads are not inherently evil, and Lean Burn can work perfectly well when it's not been messed with or modified. Holley carbs are not my favorite but back in the day, they ran as well as the Carter-equipped models. These cars all left the factory with perfectly smooth starting ability when done properly and maintained to spec. I encourage anyone who recently started a project car to try this approach first... I doubt you'll bother searching for aftermarket systems once you realize how well Mother Mopar's home-cooked recipes work!

Cheers and good starting,
Chris in LA
78 NYB Salon
72 Charger
67 Crown
63 Dart