Steve, and all...
"10 below (F). That happens here in Michigan about
once a decade (actual air temp, not wind chill), and if it's that cold, I'm
not goin' out anyway! I can't imagine even Brad Hogg sees temps that cold
very often... Brad??"
Yes, it does indeed get MUCH colder than that for considerable lengths of
time every winter here. I am not even all that far North. I grew up 300
miles farther North than I live now and that is not even considered
"Northern Canada".
BTW, I NEVER talk windchill. When I refer to temperatures, that is the real
air temperature. Windchill can drive the temperature down much farther.
Anyone who has ever stood out in a North wind on the prairies knows all
about that...at least, if they had the good sense to get indoors within a
minute or two, otherwise they would be no longer with us.
10 above F is -12 C. At 40 below F it is the same at -40 C. It is a rare
winter when we do not see -40 C for at least a few days. Normally, the
temperature here in December and January is about -20 C to -30 C. It is not
unusual for the temperature to not rise above freezing from November 1 to
some time in March. Farther North, gets a little colder still. In the
Arctic, Yellowknife, Whitehorse etc., it is not unusual to have temperatures
of -50 C or colder for days or weeks at a time.
This of course, IS Imperial related in that one can imagine trying to carry
on normal every day life in these temperatures. Keeping a car going
reliably in temps like this is an art, and a necessity. Every winter we
have a few deaths due to people's cars breaking down on the highway and the
elements getting the best of the occupants. Most everyone here carry's a
"survival kit" in the car, expecially when travelling outside the city,
where help may not be very close at hand. I have a small suitecase with
extra clothes, dried food, candles, first aid, etc. in it. In the fall, I
toss it in the car, in the spring, I take it out again. Also, it is not
uncommon to regularly carry a small shovel for getting un-stuck and a set of
booster cables, in the trunk.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ImpSvcs@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 7:39 AM
Subject: IML: Engine Oil weights
Hi All,
I had to weigh in on this one... many moons ago I bought my first
car... a 1962 Plymouth with a slant six. The car had 147,000 miles on it,
and smoked like a chimney cold. I eventually stumbled onto a product called
Alemite CD-2, which was a honey-thick preparation that claimed to stop
engine
smoking. Added to a fresh oil change, it probably increased the oil
viscosity 20-30 points, reducing the amount splashed on the cylinder walls
and slowing the flow down the valve stems. Hardly any smoke cold, and none
hot. In my case, on that car, it worked well.
Fast forward 30 years, and I'm working for a major auto manufacturer,
with an assignment in Service Program Development. In an effort to
incrementally increase fuel economy and reduce emissions (and we're talking
real, real small increments) said manufacturer is recommending 5W-XX oils
for
vehicles used in cooler climates, and is experimenting with 0W-XX. The bean
counters have done the math and figured that the increased warranty costs
and
hit on customer satisfaction are more than offset by the ability to sell
more
high-profit vehicles (read non-econoboxes) and still satisfy CAFE and state
(read California) mandates. Hmmmm....
Our Imperials were designed for use with the recommended weight oils,
period. Granted that the newer oils have better additives, etc... according
to the owners' manuals these cars are meant to have 5W- oils in them only in
temperatures colder than 10 below (F). That happens here in Michigan about
once a decade (actual air temp, not wind chill), and if it's that cold, I'm
not goin' out anyway! I can't imagine even Brad Hogg sees temps that cold
very often... Brad?? Any other members further north???
On the other end of the spectrum, I run 20W50 racing oil in my 451ci
Barracuda. I try not to run it at all below 40F, as the oil pressure goes
sky
high...(90-100 psi). I can't imagine that the top end gets any lubrication
to speak of for the first minute or so. But it holds pressure well in high
temperatures, and under "supervised acceleration trials" :) Even in 70
degree weather, I crank it to get pressure up before letting it fire, and
run it at idle the first minute or two... and even then I'm still showing
70-80 psi - way too much for normal use. The car runs 40-50 psi once warm.
The rule of thumb Chrysler gave us years ago was that 10psi per 1000 rpm is
sufficient to prevent engine damage. Any more just consumes horsepower and
puts unneeded strain on the oil pump drive.
I have a bad habit of jumping in the beaters (new cars) and as soon
as
they're lit, popping them in gear and heading for the road. I nearly always
let the Imperials run 30-60 seconds and never have a problem. Well, the
other morning, it was cool, and I needed to move the '63 Imperial to get
another car out... I started it, lifted the park lever and punched the
reverse button, and got the expected slow reaction from the transmission.
It
just reaffirmed in my mind that the old girl needs a few seconds to get
herself gathered before we leave.
So IMHO, I'd stick with the recommended oils, using thicker oils or
additives when dictated by age and wear, and then only when the weather
permits.
Steve Charette
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