You'll never pull 80 amps, rather, the alternator CAN supply up to 80amps should your car need it. Since you replaced the old regulator with a solid state, you now have fairly constant voltage. If it's a stock replacement you'll have from 11volts to 13.5, if you went with the Mopar Performance "race only"[0] regulator, you have a solid 13.5 at all times. In theory. My 'race only' put out 14.5 all the time (except idle with accessories on) but the stock 60 ro 80 (not sure which) alternator does a fine job of supplying power. Last night I tried turning on my highbeams (32amps)[1], heater and windshield wipers. Things are good as long as I rev over 2000rpm, lower than that and I only get 11volts. I haven't put in the 100amp alternator yet, but I do have all the brackets. [0] http://www.robdiesel.com/Galleries/Cars/1967Chrysler300/imagepages/image123. htm [1] http://www.robdiesel.com/Info/Cars/headlightrelay.htm Bar00n http://www.robdiesel.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike and Cindy" <mbecker30@xxxxxxxxx> 86 amps at speed. Because of the larger current capability I by-passed the amp gauge in the dash(for safety reasons, having all that current flow thru the dash is a design flaw in mopars anyway) and used the digital volt meter under the dash to monitor the electrical system. At the same time I upgraded to the mopar solid