--- Dick Benjamin <DickB@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> You need to take the hinge off to do the fix anyway, so the easy way to
> do
> this is to buy the whole rebuilt hinge, then you can paint it to match
> your
> car, and make the switch all at once.
I saw somthing different when Lowell pitched me on his kit and in what I
then got from him. He may do whole hinges, too, but I just got the parts.
Parts alone may be cheaper if you're a cheap-skate like me.
You will have to take the hinge out, though regardless.
I think that Lowell's basic kit only includes a stouter plate and spring,
not the entire hinge. The plate is the thing in the hinge assembly with
the crook in it that the door pin rides against. When the stationary
in-door-pin slides along the plate, the spring (which is what tends to
fail) pulls on the plate. The hole in the plate can also fail, releasing
the spring from its grasp - letting the door flop about and not stay
held-open. The plate has a crook cut into it, and this is the lump that
your door falls into in a resting postition as it is held open.
That's a really crude description. Go look at the front door's upper
hinge as you open the car door. Assuming that you are looking at one that
is not failed, the two parts that move are the spring and the plate that
Lowell sells. Just order what he offers and send no parts (unless you're
paying him to install on your hinge). When they come, they are easy to
identify once you're looking at your set-up.
-Kenyon
=====
Kenyon Wills
6o LeBaron - America's Most Carefully Built Car
73 LeBaron - Long Low & Luxurious
San Lorenzo/SF Bay Area
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