Paul E. Niemi, LeBaron62@xxxxxxxxxx<br><br>I know what this is, and it took me
years to find out. The bouncing amp guage and flickering headlights are
actually caused by one or two bad connections in the wiring harness where the
connections go through the firewall. I think all '62s have this problem,
probably '63s, and maybe all early alternator equiped Imperials. <br> The
problem exists in the wires which detour to the key switch en route from the
alternator to the voltage regulator. The low voltage of the field wire causes
it to fall prey to oxidation in the connections through the firewall creating
resistance. That results in an intermittent voltage or even a spark occurring
in the firewall connection. It is not the voltage regulator, it is the wiring.
But beyond that, this condition destroys the diodes or rectifiers in the
alternator. One by one they go, even if the alternator is new. As each diode
goes, the output of the alternator is reduced to nothing.<br>
The cure for this problem is to disconnect the firewall connections of the
wiring harness and thoroughly clean the contacts of all oxidation. Replacement
of the alternator may also be necessary. Check the circuits for resistance
upon reconnection.
PEN<br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br>
<br><br> --- On Fri 05/16, Christopher Middlebrook &lt;
delamothe@xxxxxxxxxx &gt; wrote:<br>From: Christopher Middlebrook
[mailto: delamothe@xxxxxxxxxx]<br>To:
mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<br>Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 09:36:25 -0400
(EDT)<br>Subject: RE: IML: Fluctuating Amp
Gauge<br><br>&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;It depends on what
kind of voltage regulator you have. Did you replace it with an OEM style relay
driven regulator, or did you replace it with a solid state type?
&lt;br&gt;If it is the relay type, chances are it needs (the relays) to
be adjusted. One of the relays may be st
icking, thus not being able to excite the field winding (rotor) in your
alternator under load. &lt;br&gt;If it is the solid state type, your
problem is most likely the reference it is getting for regulation. It should
be the + terminal of the battery. (actually, this applies to both
styles)&lt;br&gt;A stretch may be the fact that one of your new battery
cables needs a connection tightened or cleaned if it's on a corroded or rusted
surface. The headlights put a fairly good load on the charging system, and a
poor connection can make things heat up and act
crazy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;You may want to hold on to the
regulator you replaced. It probably still works well. Just remember to never
remove a battery terminal while a car is running. It is the quickest way to
destroy a regulator, or derate one of the diodes in the alternator. This
condition is called a load dump, and it generates a surge of 40 and up to 60V
on your entire electrical syst
em. Usually the battery winds up getting the punch, and it can be very
dangerous. (The battery in a car's electrical system is also the filter
capacitor that maintains a very constant DC level - not to be confused with the
RF noise from plugs firing, and the ignition coil which has high frequency
components and requires a different kind of
filtering).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Good luck with your
troubleshooting&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Regards,&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Chris
Middlebrook&lt;br&gt;62 Custom
Southampton&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; --- On Fri 05/16, &amp;lt;
bluzsax@xxxxxxx &amp;gt; wrote:&lt;br&gt;From: [mailto:
bluzsax@xxxxxxx]&lt;br&gt;To:
mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx&lt;br&gt;Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 07:33:54
-0400 (EDT)&lt;br&gt;Subject: IML: Fluctuating Amp
Gauge&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I purchased one of the few remaining
63 Crown Convertibles&amp;lt;br
&amp;gt;about 4 weeks ago.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;It had charging
problems.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;For peace of mind I decided to replace just
about everything related.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;I first had the alternator
tested. It was not giving a full charge.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Replaced it
and still had a charging problem.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Then I replaced the
battery and cables.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;After replacing the voltage
regulator, I noticed the&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;stock amp gauge moved to
where it should be in the charging position.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Now when
I turn the headlights on, I notice the gauge bounces
around&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;in the charging position
sporadically.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Does anyone know what this is? Am I
damaging the
system?&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;-----------------
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