Joel, the 440-6bbl cam has the same timing specs as the regular 440HP cam, just a different taper on the lobes so they'll better handle the increased spring pressures and such. You'll ALSO need a better exhaust system (2.5" pipes with duals and Street Hemi mufflers, or two of the Imperial-spec mufflers with 2.5" inlet and outlet pipes).
Even used, if you can find a Six Pack setup that's not been hacked on by some self-styled racer, the will not be cheap--just for the carbs. Luckily, all of that stuff can be had new via Holley and Mopar Performance and that's the best way to go, in my orientation of things. Then there's the intake manifold and the add-on paper gaskets that go on each side of the metal "bath tub" intake gasket of the 440 V-8--they have to be there to keep the gasket from eating into the aluminum intake with the hot/cold cycles an engine goes through with normal use.
As for the carbs, the center Holley is 1.50" diameter throttle bores, basically what's in your existing 4bbl carb. I'd be willing to bet that your existing carb is plenty much to adequately feed your engine or even one with a little hotter cam at WOT and the 5000rpm range. Just as with a normal Holley 4bbl and its vacuum controlled secondaries, the secondary carbs on the Six Pack setup will not fully open at WOT unless the engine has a need for the extra air flow AND can tolerate it. Just as with a regular 4bbl, too much air too soon results in BOG and no significant extra acceleration.
End result, unless the vehicle has the other systems in place to handle the added air flow of a Six Pack setup, it's an expensive exercise in cosmetics and added maintenance and setup labor. Not everyone (including those that "think" they know about them) can get one of those carb setups to work as they are designed to or successfully tweak them a little. Therefore, you'd probably be better off with a 750 Carter AVS (or similar Edlebrock variation) than spending well over $1000 to buy the pieces for a Six Pack setup. Similar performance, less money, and fewer long term headaches--period.
ONE other thing. Unless the a/c compressor mount is the one that moves the compressor pretty much out to the left hand valve cover area, unlike the earlier 1970s and 1960s mounts that had the compressor right behind the water pump, you'll have to hack the front of the Six Pack base plate to clear the compressor. Such hacking will end up right up to the edge of the front of the filter element, unless the compressor is moved to the left (as mentioned). No sense having an Imperial, of all things, with no A/C!
Many speed shop people only know what's in their catalogs, unfortunately. Few have ever owned or have regularly been around anything with a Six Pack setup AND worked on them. Not to mention finding somebody at one of those shops that "speaks MOPAR", with all due respect.
I ran across a guy at Mopar Nats in the early 1990s that had a black '69 Newport 2-door hardtop. He had the rear wheel wells stuffed with Mickey Thompson sticky rubber. Under the hood was a 383 with the Chrysler 292 degree cam, a single plane Edlebrock intake with a race Holley sitting on top of it, with a 3000 rpm converter and a 4.30 gear in the 8 3/4 Sure Grip rear end. The converter let the cam work and the rear axle let everything else work together. I doubt it would have been any hotter with a Six Pack on it too. In other words, everything worked together. The car had to have weighed in the 4300 pound range, without the driver. He also had no trouble taking on the locals in their Brand X alleged hot rods either. They'd think he was talking trash until he'd torque it up against the brake and slide it sideways toward them--that got their attention real quick.
A good combination? Yes. Something to drive every day? Not necessarily and with those gears, not a highway cruiser (except at lower speeds).
In doing many engine modifications, the better part of valor is NOT going to the bottom of the page in the manufacturer's catalog to choose your parts. Too many "big numbers" don't make for a good combination of parts in almost every situation.
Get the car running as good as it can, first, and use that as a baseline against which to judge any modifications with. You might discover, as many in our Mopar Club have, that Chrysler's own combination of cam, intake, carb, etc., when well finessed, are pretty dang good as is. In other words, as many of them also found out, deviating from the Chrysler HP engine specs in those areas did not make significant reductions in 1/4 mile ETs or higher speeds.
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