--- Luis C <luis1024@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> What can you guys recommend for a chrome cleaner. I
> have pin point rust spots on my 68 and I want to get
> rid of them. Any one have any suggestions? Thanks
> everybody. Luis
>
> Sorry spelled chrome wrong.
>
> --- W Bell <cbody67tx@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > I've used that particular wax with good results,
> > just as with other Meguiar's products I've used.
> > What IS important for any wax to really work is to
> > have good paint underneath it--this is where the
> > extra work comes in for basic initial prep.
> >
> > If the paint can't be brought up to a hard shine
> > after buffing (I personally like the orbital
> buffers
> > rather than the classic buffer), then no wax will
> > make up the difference, but it will look better
> when
> > done. What I've used to get things started was a
> > particular Meguiar's buffing compoung (whose grit
> > dissolves after a short time) and use it only as
> > little as necessary. Then, after wiping it all
> > down, follow that with their glaze to put the oils
> > back into the paint. I discovered that letting
> that
> > cure for a few days before another coat was a good
> > strategy.
> >
> > After the glaze is done, then I follow that with
> the
> > straight wax product. Takes more time than with a
> > one-step product, but it looks better too.
> >
> > In cases where it's in basically better shape,
> using
> > the old "red bottle" Meguiar's liquid was is a
> good
> > starting place. It might take a couple of
> > applications, spaced out over several days, to get
> > things to where they need to be. Then the
> straight
> > wax on top of that.
> >
> > No easy feat. I also know how long those quarter
> > panels, hoods, tops, and deck lids can be!!! But,
> > when done, it'll be worth it. Just be sure that
> as
> > soon as you start seeing primer bleed through, END
> > of the cleaner stuff. Also, with the orbital
> > buffer, use a towel-like buffing mit as with the
> > thicker lambswool mits (as the high speed buffers
> > would use), the buffer will just sit there and
> > vibrate with the mit remaining stationary. I
> > haven't used any of the foam ones, though.
> >
> > For wiping, old towels work well. In the case of
> > the glaze, buffing it one day and then buffing it
> > the next day can make it shine even more (as more
> of
> > the oils have dried from the initial buffing).
> >
> > I've also observed that different colors have
> > different durability factors on wax. Seems that
> > black just cooks it off regardless of what it is,
> > but some last longer than others.
> >
> > Just my own observations and experiences,
> > W Bell
> >
>
>
>
>
>
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