Wow, you do indeed have a list of questions!
>From the top:
If your starter is refusing to crank when you twist the key, the problem
could be anywhere in the various lockout and safety features. Before you
spend money on a new starter, check those items yourself.
The main thing to verify is whether or not there is 12 volts on the large
brown wire which goes from the starter control relay down to the starter.
This is the only brown #12 wire (large!) on the relay. Get your test probe
on that contact while someone tries to crank the car. If you see 12 volts
there but the starter ain't crankin', you have a bad starter. If you DON'T
see 12 volts there, the problem is elsewhere. I don't recall your name, but
I think we went over this for someone else with starter problems a week or
so ago - if that was you, dig out what to check in what order. If you can't
find it, email me privately and I'll re-do it - the list must be getting
tired of hearing 80's coupe problems!
Further on the starter - I've only guessed at what you mean by "messed up".
If you mean you hear expensive sounding noises from time to time from the
starter/ring gear interface, that is another kettle of fish - you must
investigate this and SOON, because if you screw up your ring gear, you will
really be "messed up"!
The fuel down the wing nut trick is a way to sort out whether "refusal to
run" problems are fuel or ignition related. If your problem is occasional
refusal to CRANK, that is what we were discussing above. If you have a
separate problem such as ---: the starter cranks OK but the engine does not
start running on its own,---- then is the time to try the fuel in the air
cleaner trick. If that is what you did and it worked once, but not another
time, I think you're having intermittent ignition problems, not fuel
problems, but try it a few more times and keep records - we'll dope out what
is happening when. Please don't use starting fluid - it is very hard on the
bearings, and you don't need it. By the way, "starting fluid" is ether -
much more flammable than a small container of gas. I can understand your
reluctance to carry a few ounces of gas with you, but I think that is more
due to years of being warned not to do this.
I personally do not worry about 2 ounces of gas in a small metal screw top
can (like a brake fluid can). No matter what disaster you contemplate,
there are so many other sources of flammable substances in your car that
this is truly worrying about fly specks in the pepper. That's an opinion -
others may disagree, and that's fine, lets not have a flame war about it
(pun intended).
Shudder on coasting has nothing to do with the transmission, except possibly
in the last few seconds when it is downshifting to first as you come to a
stop. The shudder that is related to the transmission is caused by a worn
lock-up clutch in the torque converter. Worn lock-up torque converters
begin to groan and maybe shudder a little on engagement. This happens when
accelerating gently at the speed when the lock-up clutch is supposed to
engage - usually around 45 MPH, depending on throttle position. It is a
symptom of wear and slippage of the lock-up clutch. It is not a serious
problem, you can drive for years with this symptom. Someone on the list was
pulling his engine for some other reason, and I advised him to have the
converter rebuilt at the same time since he had already done 90% of the
labor involved.
Shudder on coasting sounds to me like a bent wheel or perhaps tire with a
blister on it. If you have the snowflake wheels, they don't bend (they
break instead!), but if you have the steel wheels (the ones with the fake
wire wheel covers), they are normal steel wheels and they will bend when
they hit an obstruction. It's also possible that your front end is so loose
that you have shimmy coming in at some road speed and surface condition. So
take the car to an alignment shop and have them inspect the wheels, tires
and front end for problems. If that doesn't get it, next you need to check
into motor mounts, possible bent driveline - and the list goes on. I can't
imagine a way in which the starter could be involved, but I learn something
new every day, so if this turns out to be related, please tell me how. I
don't understand what you mean by "teeth are off", but if you suspect the
starter is touching the ring gear when the engine is running, check that out
right now - see above.
The dash:
The dash is supposed to light up when you pull the door handle.
The idiot lights are supposed to do what you describe also. This is all
described in the owner's manual and the shop manuals, I believe.
The other funnies you report sound like a ground wire has come loose from
the dash cluster board - and that could be related to your starting problems
also. So get out your Factory Service manual and see how to get at the
connections for the cluster board, and make sure they wires are all secure,
the connectors are all seated, and the ground wire is in place, and in good
condition.
Your mention of the low fuel light brings to mind the discussion of starting
problems. DON'T run these cars low on fuel. The liquid fuel is what cools
the in-tank fuel pump - habitually running on fumes will cause problems of
vapor being pumped through the system, and pump overheating - any of which
could be related to your starting problems. Make a habit of always keeping
at least 5 gallons in the tank. Low fuel also causes stalling on right
turns on some of these cars (mine included).
Dick Benjamin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob P" <fristpenny@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2004 9:20 PM
Subject: IML: some more '82 questions.
> I am now pretty certain that my starter is messed up. Won't be able to
mess
> with it too much over the next week or so. I tried the fuel down the wing
> nut trick, once it seemed to work and once it didn't. Is there any reason
I
> shouldn't use starter fluid? I really don't want to carry gas around.
>
> The car has a moderate shudder at highway speeds. Particularly on
coasting.
> Is this likely the lock up converter? I'm wondering if that may be related
> to the starter problem, since it occaisionally sounds like the teeth are
> off.
>
> The dash also acts strangely. The speedo has almost all the bars lit all
the
> time. The ones for the speed you are actually going are a little brighter.
> The km/h lights up and flashes in time with the low fuel light. The dash
> goes on when you pull on the door handle. I don't think it's supposed to
do
> that. Any possible common cause for any/all of these problems. I'm hoping
> there is a ground problem causing some of it. Also, the idiot lights for
> volts and seat belt come on when you turn the key to start. The light for
> temp only comes on when the car is cranking. Which is normal?
>
> Thanks for all the help so far. In a month or two I may be able to
> concentrate on the dents.
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