Well, for anyone interested, you might recall that my car's
canister-type power
brake booster has been hissing badly, whenever the pedal is depressed, and
that I'd been quoted O/H prices of several hundreds, and up, for that work.
When this condition occurs, with our cars, a mere reversion to manual-
braking-effort results, and if so, that is NO big-deal, believe me. Biggest
PITA is the hissing noise, at red lights (so, don't STOP there, I hear
you say).
As I never like risking sending out an essential part with the car remaining
undriveable, I bought a flea-pay booster, very economically, which
was claimed
to be in working condition, and sent it out to "Booster Dewey", in
Portland OR
for O/H, at the VERY reasonable cost of $175.00.
They just called and will be returning that guy to me; they say that
they use a very
viscous lubricant to seal up the booster's internal compression.
I've asked them to send me some pics of their representative internal
work, as I may be
praising their product to others. They say that my 'new' booster has
been tested by
them to work like a champ!
So, I may be interested in selling my car's canister to someone who
might be interested
in having IT be O/H'ed, and installed in (one of-) your car(s), too.
Anyway: and here's a question for you Engineering-types: the manual
brakes apparently
have a different configuration of the brake pedals/system, from the
power brake models (called
the "aspect ratio"--IIRC) which allow for different p.s.i. line pressure
ratings, between the two
systems.
E.G.: according to the 1957 D501 A.M.A. specs, the manual brakes have a
750 p.s.i.
rating, while the power brakes have a 1,100 p.s.i. rating ; a
considerable difference.
(Here it comes: ) so, to what extent would a manual brake car realize
an increase in
braking effort/effect if a power brake's pedal-lever-connections were
to be installed
onto it, and, vice-versa---given, that the master cylinders are
identical, which I
believe that they are????
Neil Vedder
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