Having gone thru the whole schmeel, herez a summary- Be sure U mark and record what shims are on what side of the car as U tear down. Clean em up with lacq thinner and use a magic marker for L and R. Then U can verify thicknesses, they are not marked but standard thicknesses are 030, 010, 0125, and 005 If U have not have had noise, and if the old bearings are not worn, chipped, discolored by heat, no flat spots etc, you will probably reuse them. Of course U will check each race likewise, mark them also and replace on same side. Chances are probably 98 out of 100 U can just put all back together as they came out. Clean em good, and repack with new wheel bearing grease. NOW If U had noise or other problems, or you install NEW bearings and races, you may have to try to recalculate shim thicknesses each side and the axle end play which is checked AFTER the shim clearances are set. I wont elaborate on that now. Mest source I found was the 55/56 Chrysler shop manual. Also FYI it appears these same axles were used back to 1946 at least so its possible other year Mopar shop manuals have detailed info. Plymouth was very sketchy with its info. Back to reassembly using existing bearings. IF you had read my earlier posts, you know you DON'T just tap the bearings and race to a fully seated positon and button it all up. The bearing assemblys (pressed onto the axle) and the loose race get pressed in place by the backing plate with its shims. In other words, as you reinstall the axle and then tap the race in place into the axle houseing recess, it MUST be sticking out a small amount, from 1/64 to 3/64 inches. The shim thinkness sets the final location of the depth of the race and bearing. Install the new inner seal in the smaller recess, install the axle with its cleaned and repacked bearing assembly with the key slot facing down, just sliding it into the differential by feel and engage the splines. The axle now has cantilever support from the differential splines. Use a 2" dia pipe with a sleeve on it, be it metal or PVC pipe, to tap the race in place. This will take some coordination, it is literally an interference fit. U may have to carefully tap the race around the edges with a SMALL ball peen hammer to start it, then finish with the pipe tool. NOW Do NOT drive the race home, leave the face of race projecting out say 1/32 to 3/64 inches, a feeler guage can be used to check. Once that is set, install the backing place with its shims, using the 5 bolts to tighten in sequence just like you do criss cross for your wheel nuts, alternating. Torque to specs, was it 35 ft lbs? check manual, and you are done with that side. Do same with other side as above. When both sides R done, check axle endplay! (range is 003 to 008) lightly tap ONE of the axle ends to seat the bearing, then move to opposite side and use a dial indicator (or a helper with a steel ruler and feeler guage) and with the axle end nut on, tug on the axle end to determine how much end play there is. NOTE- if it is cool, you may not be able to get a reading due to the newly greased bearings!!!!!!!!!! Bad news!!! Hence U should do the work in 70 degree or better environment. Be aware that for a fresh setup with new bearings the shop manual has you do your shim calculations with a dry bearing then remove bearing and race, lube, and reinstall it! Yep twice the work but U can feel/read the numbers much easier. Thats about it, hope this helps some. Dont hurry, and think a lot as you do things. Rotsa Ruck Lars |