Re: [FWDLK] Vent window.
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Re: [FWDLK] Vent window.



I am in the process of looking for a vent window crome lock and strip ( must
be 6.5 inches long ) for the drivers side. Mine has broken at the stress
point and any I have come accross in the wreckers are all broken in the same
manner. So if anyone can help I really would appreciate it. '57 Dodge
Mayfair 4 Door HT would also!!!!!
thanks alot one and all

-----Original Message-----
From: Automatic digest processor <LISTSERV@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Recipients of L-FORWARDLOOK digests <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Saturday, August 28, 1999 12:02 AM
Subject: L-FORWARDLOOK Digest - 26 Aug 1999 to 27 Aug 1999 (#1999-154)


>There are 12 messages totalling 326 lines in this issue.
>
>Topics of the day:
>
>  1. frame number (2)
>  2. That super duper penetrating oil was areo kroil. (2)
>  3. frame#
>  4. Long Ram Air Cleaner Housings
>  5. BLACKwalls (2)
>  6. 57/58 diff colors
>  7. 1/64th Diecast Mopars
>  8. 1959 New Yorker Engine Specs
>  9. Thanks for Frozen Engine info
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date:    Thu, 26 Aug 1999 23:29:47 -0700
>From:    Jim Wilson <jwilson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: frame number
>
>I am going to pull the 58 all the way down and start
>all over again, but I would like to keep driving it for
>awhile yet, so--- I have another frame that I could send
>in and have it completely cleaned and primped up for me
>but the quandry, is there a number on the frame that corresponds
>with anything other than part number, ie. title problems later
>on.
>   I have a beautiful 58 body that is minus some real serious
>parts (floor, windows, anything that moves) that will be my
>start point and my existing 58 which shall from this day forth
>be called Donor, but the frame will be my first item and probably
>last for this year, so do I tear old 58 apart now or can I use
>othere 58 frame with out getting nailed.
>Jim
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:    Fri, 27 Aug 1999 00:03:20 -0800
>From:    richard main <shelldrakelimited@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: That super duper penetrating oil was areo kroil.
>
>A wise old junkyard guy told me a mix of brake fluid and automatic
>transmission fluid works real good at freeing up stuck motors.  Let sit for
>a week or so, hot climate helps.
>
>Richard
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:    Fri, 27 Aug 1999 03:01:15 -0400
>From:    brians <brians@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: frame number
>
>Jim,
>
>You might want to look at the top of the frame in the rear
>where it rises over the axle and see if there is a visible
>number stamped on it (wipe or clean away the crud). That
>should correspond to the vehicle number.
>
>Jim Wilson wrote:
>>
>> I am going to pull the 58 all the way down and start
>> all over again, but I would like to keep driving it for
>> awhile yet, so--- I have another frame that I could send
>> in and have it completely cleaned and primped up for me
>> but the quandry, is there a number on the frame that corresponds
>> with anything other than part number, ie. title problems later
>> on.
>>    I have a beautiful 58 body that is minus some real serious
>> parts (floor, windows, anything that moves) that will be my
>> start point and my existing 58 which shall from this day forth
>> be called Donor, but the frame will be my first item and probably
>> last for this year, so do I tear old 58 apart now or can I use
>> othere 58 frame with out getting nailed.
>> Jim
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:    Fri, 27 Aug 1999 01:41:00 -0700
>From:    Jim Wilson <jwilson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: frame#
>
>Thanks to all of you who wrote, looks like the 58 goes down and becomes
>Donor sooner than I wanted. Those of you who live in the Washington (state)
>area know how anal retentive the WSP can be, so I won't even chance it.
>   Again thanks I just couldn't find the darn thing but now that I know
>where it is, it sticks out like a sore thumb.
>Jim
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:    Fri, 27 Aug 1999 06:10:39 -0500
>From:    Wayne Graefen <wrgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: Long Ram Air Cleaner Housings
>
>Repro ram air cleaners are available to MEMBERS ONLY of the
>Chrysler 300 Club International for $350 per pair.  Membership
>info avail per inquiry.
>
>Wayne Graefen
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: moparman <moparman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 1999 11:44 PM
>Subject: Long Ram Air Cleaner Housings
>
>
>> Does anyone know of a source for reproduction long ram air
>cleaner housings?
>> I am putting a long ram set-up together, and the prices I am
>seeing for used
>> ones are.........shocking.
>>
>> Al Wilson
>> moparman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> '60 Plymouth Belvedere
>>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:    Fri, 27 Aug 1999 07:10:08 -0400
>From:    don dulmage <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: That super duper penetrating oil was areo kroil.
>
>Right on!
>If brake fluid won't work nothing will. That is because brake fluid will
>go where normal oils won't and it is hydroscopic (absorbs water) which
>is what seized the motor in the first place. I have used it for 35
>years.
>DOn DulmaGE
>
>richard main wrote:
>>
>> A wise old junkyard guy told me a mix of brake fluid and automatic
>> transmission fluid works real good at freeing up stuck motors.  Let sit
for
>> a week or so, hot climate helps.
>>
>> Richard
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:    Fri, 27 Aug 1999 06:37:46 -0500
>From:    Wayne Graefen <wrgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: BLACKwalls
>
>Y'all Forwardlookers,
>
>We've heard some preferences on making/keeping whitewalls white.
>
>What do the rest of you use (if anything) to keep black walls,
>or the black outside your whitewalls, looking rich black like
>new?
>
>Personally, I use two products:
>
>My blackwalled daily driver gets shot with "More Shine, Less
>Time" aerosol.  I let it sit 10-15 minutes and then wipe off any
>excess with paper towels to avoid the "Armor-all" high gloss
>look.
>
>For show car preparation, I'll apply Meguiar's "Clean, Shine and
>Protect", also bottled as Meguiar's professional line "#40,
>Rubber and Vinyl".  I pump spray it onto a small kitchen sponge
>which allows me to get just the application area needed like
>into the assorted grooves and depression of tire sidewalls.
>Also use this on my door/trunk weatherseals, interior vinyl
>trim, radiator and heater hoses, windshield and backglass
>gaskets.  I REALLY like this stuff!  and no silicone!
>
>Wayne Graefen
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:    Fri, 27 Aug 1999 08:45:17 -0500
>From:    David Homstad <dhomstad@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: BLACKwalls
>
>Wayne,
>
>I use Westley's. It works just as good on the black as on the white. The
>black looks new, not greasy, glossy, or darker black than new. It is
>important to rinse with lots of water, while brushing with a stiff bristle
>brush, to flush away what has been loosened by the Westley's. Westley's
>seems to work best when sprayed directly on every square inch of the tire
>while it is dry. Spraying on most areas, but not all, and brushing it
around
>does not work well.
>
>Dave Homstad
>56 Dodge D500
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:   Wayne Graefen [SMTP:wrgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxx]
>Sent:   Friday, August 27, 1999 6:38 AM
>To:     L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject:        [FWDLK] BLACKwalls
>
>Y'all Forwardlookers,
>
>We've heard some preferences on making/keeping whitewalls white.
>
>What do the rest of you use (if anything) to keep black walls,
>or the black outside your whitewalls, looking rich black like
>new?
>
>Personally, I use two products:
>
>My blackwalled daily driver gets shot with "More Shine, Less
>Time" aerosol.  I let it sit 10-15 minutes and then wipe off any
>excess with paper towels to avoid the "Armor-all" high gloss
>look.
>
>For show car preparation, I'll apply Meguiar's "Clean, Shine and
>Protect", also bottled as Meguiar's professional line "#40,
>Rubber and Vinyl".  I pump spray it onto a small kitchen sponge
>which allows me to get just the application area needed like
>into the assorted grooves and depression of tire sidewalls.
>Also use this on my door/trunk weatherseals, interior vinyl
>trim, radiator and heater hoses, windshield and backglass
>gaskets.  I REALLY like this stuff!  and no silicone!
>
>Wayne Graefen
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:    Fri, 27 Aug 1999 12:36:24 -0400
>From:    "Larry C. Stanley" <peerless@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: 57/58 diff colors
>
> All,
>
>> I think that you would be safe in painting anything from the frame on
>down
>> with a good black paint.  I don't think that the original chassis had
>much
>> paint on it, and it was probably black.
>
>About the only color would be the inspection marks and the paint streaks
>that showed what 'innerds' were in the differential and which lube to put
>in, paint marks on the torsion bars to show stiffness and other marks made
>by factory inspectors. Has anyone made a list of the color and location of
>these marks? (They can vary from plant to plant and even shift to shift.)
>Most of the cars from the late '60's and the '70's have this info. One of
>the best ways to get it is to have the guys with the really low mile cars
>to help document it.
>
>Larry
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:    Fri, 27 Aug 1999 17:03:11 -0500
>From:    Robert Whitman <rwhitman@xxxxxxxx>
>Subject: 1/64th Diecast Mopars
>
>FYI -
>Racing Champions is coming out with a few more finned Mopars in 1/64th
scale
>(Hot wheels and Matchbox size).  As you may know they produce racing cars
>and stock classics.  They currently have a '57 Fury (very nice for $4!) and
>a '60 Fury.  They have come out with a Petty history series with most cars
>raced/owned by Lee and Richard Petty.  These include:
>1953 Coronet
>1954 Coronet
>1955 300-B
>1956 Coronet
>1959 Plymouth Plaza
>1960 Fury
>1962 Plymouth Savoy
>1963 Plymouth Savoy
>1964 Belvedere
>1965 Barracuda
>and almost every other Petty car raced to present.  More may be added
>(hopefully a '57, '58, '61 Mopars, too).
>
>These usually are well done, and are good for customizing to be like your
>favorite color scheme.  The early cars are not in stores, yet, but keep an
>eye out at any general toy department.  You will see some Petty cars at any
>store, today.  I can't wait to pop out some rivets and strip some paint on
>some of these for the shelf.
>goto:  http://www.racingchamps.com/petty/html/cars_set.html  for more info.
>-Robert
>-'60 Adventurer
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:    Fri, 27 Aug 1999 16:57:57 PDT
>From:    Eugene Calderaro <carnut31@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: 1959 New Yorker Engine Specs
>
>Does anybody hav general specifications on the 413 V8 found in the '59 New
>Yorker?
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date:    Fri, 27 Aug 1999 17:29:28 -0800
>From:    Nick Nichols <3nichols@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Thanks for Frozen Engine info
>
>Thanks to everyone that responded to my frozen engine problem.  I got
>some good tips and will try several of them.  Many people did seem to
>swear by "Kroil".  Also, it was nice to see that no one thought that a
>Studebaker was a piece of garbage.  I do love Mopars, as I own
>several, but I also have a thing for Studebaker Hawks, as well as
>Hudson Hornets.  thanks again,  Nick Nichols,  San Francisco, Ca
>
>------------------------------
>
>End of L-FORWARDLOOK Digest - 26 Aug 1999 to 27 Aug 1999 (#1999-154)
>********************************************************************
>



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