Hi All,
Just wanted to add my two cents to this discussion. On the ballast resistor,
it is a pass/fail component. It works or it does not. I have had one fail
and EVERYTHING shuts off, just like a switch. So it obviously it is not the
resistor. You may want to check the wiring to and from the resistor, but I
don't think that is the problem. The reason (I believe) your Fury starts
right up when it is cold is the accelerator pump. When the car has been
sitting for a short period, the pump is full and the carb will draw
immediately from this when you key the ignition ( I assume you pump the gas a
couple of times). But when you have been driving it, the heat from the engine
(evaporation), plus the suction of a warm cast iron manifold, with a cooler,
but still warm carb will draw out that fuel when you shut the motor off,
actually drawing it into the cylinder. This is called cylinder wash. This
means that the engine will have to draw fresh fuel and thus you have to
crank. When you shut off in the garage, the fuel is drawn out as before, but
then has time to suction as the engine and the carb cool. This effect is
similar to a Sterling hot air engine. A piston moves because it is pushed by
heat to a cool area, where the air then cools and it is drawn back. This
problem is just something intrinsic to Carter Carbs and so there is basically
nothing wrong with your Fury. You may want to try moving the position of the
accelerator rod to the next highest whole. This will increase the stroke of
the rod, and to some extent the volume of the pump. But it also may cause
drivability problems and flooding. You decide. And for that matter, there is
nothing wrong with Mr. Zapata's car. He apparently lets it sit long enough
that the fuel does evaporate off after the cooling cycle. But be forewarned.
I have seen what happens to a carb as this happens repeatedly, and it means a
build up of "sludge" or varnish in the bottom of the float bowls, in the
needles and seats, and most especially in the metering passages and orifices
that make a carb work. It also kills the leather lip seal of the accelerator
pump. The carb will need to be cleaned if this happens allot, most likely
disassembled and rebuilt. There is an excellent book I highly recommend that
everyone on the list read. It is "Carter Carburetors" by Dave Emanuel. You
can find it in most big book stores. Remember that these cars were meant to
be driven, day in and day out, not stored for extended periods of time. If
you intend to store for more than a month, remove the carb and drain it, then
replace it. But storage is a whole other issue.
Just my two cents,
Chargin'Charles--->>>
Still lookin for that elusive 1960 New Yorker, Saratoga.
Glenn Barrat wrote:
> My 57 Plymouth Fury has exactly the opposite problem.
> When I jump in, after the Fury has been sitting in the garage for 5 days, I
> turn the key, and the engine kicks into life without bearly hearing the
> starter motor-EVERY TIME GUARANTEED! Like clockwork. Couldn't be better!
> But then, after going on a reasonable journey and getting the car warm, the
> engine seems to take up to 30 seconds of cranking before she will start. Of
> course it always does start, but why does it take so long when it is warm?
> When it starts so incredibly easily when it is stone cold?
> I have had suggestions that it could be the Ballast resistor which sits on
> top of the coil-is that a possibility and if so, how do I test it-and where
> do I get a NOS or replacement?
> Any suggestions appreciated.
> Thanks.
> Glenn Barratt,
> 57 Fury.
>
> Richard Zapata wrote:
>
> > Hi all. I bet I'm not alone here. After my cars sit for more than a
> > few days I have to crank them for many seconds before they fire up. If
> > started within a couple of days - no problem, they fire right up. The
> > carbs are slowly draining and need to crank to re-fill them. Has anyone
> > tried tapping on those little plugs around the bottom of the carbs to
> > tighten them, or maybe a drop of epoxy over them. ??
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