From: Ron Waters <Ronbo97@xxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxx>
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] POR-15
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 11:53:50 -0500
Hi all -
I've used both products and they both work well. I have found, though,
that
POR15 turns chalky after a few years. I've also had isolated instances of
POR15 releasing from surfaces that had underlying rust. Another factor is
that the stuff is BAD to breath in. Must wear a respirator when using.
I prefer Corroless to POR15 because it *is* easier to paint over. Also
less
toxic. I find Corroless every bit as good as POR15. It comes in both
spray
cans and quarts. I would recommend the quarts because the stuff tends to
harden in the spray cans after a couple of months, making it unusable.
You have a 2 - 4 hour window to topcoat POR15 (usually 4 - 6 hours after
application). With Corroless, it's about a 12 hour window, again starting
about 4 - 6 hours after application.
One last thing, both products work best on metal that's been sandblasted
clean.
My 2¢.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: <cpollock@xxxxxxxx>
To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 5:13 AM
Subject: [FWDLK] POR-15
> I sent this response to Scott and forgot to forward to the whole group,
> so here it is.
>
> Hi All,
> Just wanted to comment on POR-15. Stuff works great, exactly as
> advertised. I
> have used it for years but there are a few things to know about it.
> Once you
> apply it you have a VERY limited amount of time to paint/clear coat/etc.
> over
> it. If you EVER plan on painting, etc. over it (and I believe this
> includes
> undercoating) it must be done in that short time frame. If you don't it
> will
> not stick. Period. Nothing sticks to this stuff once it is dry. And I
> mean
> nothing. Also, if ever plan on removing a part that this stuff is on,
> paint
> the part separately, let the stuff dry and then reassemble. The reason
> for
> this is the that the POR-15 will more or less weld anything together.
> You
> won't get it apart again without a chisel. This includes the lid to the
> can
> that it comes in. I always put a piece of cellophane between the can
> and the
> lid before I hammer it shut. If you want something that can be easily
> painted
> over use Correless. This can be used in the same way, but isn't quite
> so
> durable. The results are the same. It permanently stops rust. It can
> be had
> through the Eastwood Company. The next big thing is that this stuff is
> never
> really glossy and actually quite motley in appearance, so don't put it
> in an
> area that will be seen. It is also affected by UV radiation, so don't
> put it
> anywhere the sun will shine on a continual basis. It has about a 6
> month shelf
> life so avoid the 5 gallon can unless you intend to use it all at once.
> I
> usually buy it one quart at a time during a restoration. I use it on
> the floor
> and trunk pans under the carpet and mats, on the wheel wells before I
> apply the
> undercoating, and most importantly on the inside of the frame rails and
> (sometimes) on the outside as well, also before the undercoating. I use
> the
> undercoating for the "factory correct" look. I generally brush it on,
> but if
> can be sprayed. I never tried it on the inside of doors and quarters
> because I
> did not want to block the drain holes on the bottom of those. If you do
> use it
> in these places makes sure the holes are open BEFORE the stuff dries.
> It is
> 100% bulletproof and I have never seen a spot of rust on the areas I
> have
> coated. The same holds true with the Correless.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Chargin'Charles--->>>
> still looking for the elusive turquoise 2 dr 1960 New Yorker, Saratoga,
> etc.
> (and the money to pay for it)
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