Just did this on my '59 DeSoto. The 68/69 Drum/Drum version of the M/C is perfect. You will have to grind down the tip of the pushrod about 1/8" deep for about 1/4" of length though on either, to have it fit correctly in the bore of the new m/c. It will not affect changing it back for any reason. This M/C has odd-sized fittings for the lines. Pep Boys sells "adapter lines" that fit these perfectly, but they're only 6" long. I bought them just for the adapters on them, and scrapped the original line. I bought standard larger-size brake line, and used the fittings from the adapter lines on them. You will have to flare your own lines -- be sure and double-flare the ends. Both lines are about 20" long, and need to follow the contour of the original single line. Both will be 3/16 instead of 1/4. You can use the flare plugs on the adapter lines -- I just cut them off and reused them. The rear port on the m/c is for the front brakes, and the front port is for the rear brakes. Most will have this cast into the m/c. Run the front port on the m/c to the original junction block on the frame. Disconnect the rear line from the junction block, and bend it upwards. Use an appropriate plug to seal off the old rear port on the junction. Run the rear port on the m/c to the rear line. You will need an appropriate coupler to join the lines. Bleed it all, check for leaks, and enjoy. Costs: 68 Roadrunner m/c - $15.99 Adapter lines - $3.00 Misc steel lines - $7 Adapter/coupler and plug - $3 Less than $30! Also, check out http://www.valiant.org/brakes.html for good information on plumbing the lines to the M/C. -Dave -----Original Message----- From: joe frega [mailto:joefrega@xxxxxxxxx] Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 6:24 PM To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [FWDLK] Brake Conversion Hello everyone, Since Jason's brakes failed, and even though I have already replaced the two front brake hoses and intend to replace ther rear and the master cylinder hose, I have been seriously considering changing the sytem to a dual system (or whatever you call it). If I understand correctly, all I need to do is replace the master cylinder with a dual model, run a separate line to the rear to isolate the rear from the front. I'm handy enough to run a new brake line (familiar with tubing benders, cutters, flaring tools, etc) so I don't think this will be much of a problem Here's what I don't know: Is there "special" master cylinder I need to get? (my mechanic says it has to match properly with the system or you can get too much or too little pressure) Where do I get the new cylinder? Are there any other considerations I didn't menion above? What else do I not know about this project? While I'm at it, any help on locating new shoes and wheel cylinders would be appreciated also. Thanks Joe and Jason 56 Belvedere (rearend still noisy as h..l) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com
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