By sheetmetal, I assume you mean the valve covers. The procedure I outlined is for the whole engine - block, heads, intake, water pump... Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Bowers" <stellarrestorations@xxxxxxx> To: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>; <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 7:47 PM Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Painting an Engine > are you talking about the sheetmetal parts only, or everything including the > cast iron? > > Tim > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> > To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 6:41 PM > Subject: [FWDLK] Painting an Engine > > > > Hi All - > > > > I'd like some feedback on the procedure I am using for painting my engine. > > > > After removing all the peripherals (carb, fuel pump, coil, sending units, > > etc.) from my Plymouth's 318, I cleaned and sanded every nook and cranny. > > Since I've had problems in the past with rust coming thru the paint months > > after painting, I decided to prime before topcoating. I used Seymour > Green > > Zinc Phosphate primer over the scuffed bare metal and residual paint, > which > > is what I did this evening. I will let the primer dry for about two days > > before topcoating with Mopar Aluminum Engine Enamel (part no. P4529148, > > which is what has been mentioned as the correct color for the 1958 318). > I > > had some concern with compatibility issues between the primer and the top > > coat. But I was told that this primer is compatible with most color > coats. > > > > Any thoughts ? > > > > Ron >
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