[FWDLK] tapping the engine block

[Bryan Scott <scott1990@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks, John, that was very helpful!  When you do the tapping, how generous
are you with cutting oil?  When you install the coil, do you use a
lock-tight product or just insert it without "locking it in"?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John McCann" <jmccann02@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 10:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [FWDLK] tapping the engine block
>
>
> > Hi Bryan
> >    I have Heli-coiled a few holes in the past but not enough to call
> > myself
> > an expert. Use a variable speed drill and keep the speed slow. When
> > drilling
> > out the old threads to the size required by the heli coil tap the drill
> > will
> > follow the stripped out hole and it would be hard to make it do otherwise
> > in
> > steel or cast iron, aluminum is another story. When getting ready to
> > drill,
> > check the depth of the hole and put some tape on the drill bit at that
> > depth
> > so you know when you have reached bottom although drilling will probably
> > stop at that point anyway or at least slow down so you know you have hit
> > bottom. Cover all access to the engine any way you can to avoid getting
> > chips and shavings into the engine, grease on the drill bit and tap will
> > catch many of the chips but you have to keep them out of the engine. When
> > tapping the hole after it is drilled back up the tap often to clear it of
> > cuttings, you just have to back it up part of a turn until you feel it
> > turn
> > free, then turn it in the thread cutting direction again for another turn
> > then back it up again to clear the threads. when installing the
> > heli-coil,
> > try to line it up as good as you can then turn the heli-coil to start it
> > into the newly threaded hole, once it is started I usually let go of the
> > insertion tool and turn the heli-coil enough to bring the insertion tool
> > in
> > contact with the surface so I don't have a gap between the tool and the
> > hole
> > then screw it in until it clears the tool and a little more until it
> > doesn't
> > stick above the surface and interfere with the mating surface. I am
> > guessing
> > that the stripped hole is in the head where the manifold attaches which
> > means if you don't feel comfortable repairing the threads yourself you
> > can
> > remove the head and take it to a machine shop to get it done or to just
> > get
> > the repair away from your engine.
> >
> > John
> > Wilbur, Washington
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bryan Scott" <scott1990@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 8:19 AM
> > Subject: [FWDLK] tapping the engine block
> >
> >
> > > Hi all!
> > >
> > > Sadly, I stripped a hole in my block when I was bolting on the intake
> > > manifold (58 Fireflight 361 V-8).  I bought everything I need to repair
> > > it,
> > > but I can't find a drill block anywhere, including Home Depot.  Does
> > > anyone
> > > know where I can find one, or does anyone have an alternative (other
> > > than
> > > a
> > > very steady hand)?  Also, this is my first time doing this.  It seems
> > > reasonably easy, but any advice from those who have done it before is
> > > welcome!
> > >
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