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I want to remove the 383 from my '59 Dodge while leaving the TorqueFlite in place. Can it be done ? As I recall, the crankshaft sticks out the rear of the engine. Does the torque converter bolt to the flywheel or a flange, or is it a splined shaft and everything just slides apart? I have not yet removed the bottom cover to look up in there...just trying to learn in advance, and my shop manual ain't here yet. Also, it looks pretty tight under there. Does the engine have to slide forward at all/much to unbolt it from the trans? looks like the oil pan will hit the front cross member after an inch or so, unless it gets lifted about 8 inches, which I dont thik is possible. Any tips would be appreciated. Meantime I am removing all the accessories, intake, unbolting exhaust, etc, etc. in preparation. Regards, Lou *************************************************************! Lou,
Having performed this surgery more times than I can rememeber, I would ask why it is you wish to leave the trans in place, and suggest you remove both and separate once out of the car. This is, IF we are talking about an automatic. If it is a stick, disregard below ! ;-D
The difficulty in disconnecting the trans is minimal and takes only minutes - both coming out AND going back in, while the trouble of separating the engine from the trans IN the car in a pain, and rejoining them is not only ten times worse, but often times damages the slip coupler and / or becomes so difficult, you end up pulling the trans anyway and joining the two outside the car and then putting them in as a single unit, ... increasing the overall work tenfold and aggrevation factor exponentially.
The shorter wheelbase cars are even tighter than the big Chrysler and DeSoto cars, making drivetrain removal even more tedious. I bought a rather expensive Blu-bird engine crane for about $800 when an el cheapo could be had for $100, and added to it a swivel-tilt bar that gives me a lot of lift and added control for getting that nosing up and around the radiator support while having the front end of the car raised a little to give the trans tailshaft clearance and not beat the hell out of the cowl or heater box. Good equipment always helps open doors to ease of operation. If you do any kind of work a lot, the intitial investment will be worth it in the long run.
Difficulties can be reduced if you have a lift and a trans hoist when you remove the trans and NOT the engine, but in reverse, even expensive shop equipment doesn't help. Alignment trouble is the real bugger upon reinstallation. Unless you have a real good reason, I'd yank both. It is a lot easier.
B.
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