A fair number of people are under the assumption that a 190 thermostat means
the engine temperature should not rise above 190. In actuality, the
thermostat does not open until the coolant reaches 190. And that means 190
is the MINIMUM operating temperature.
A clogged engine block should not be overlooked. After years of operating,
that cast iron block will corrode and sludge will collect in corners, tight
spots, etc. If you started removing the core plugs ("frost plugs" to most
people) I am sure you will find all kinds of crud hiding in there. I
believe someone mentioned the lower rad hose could be collapsing (which is
why there is a coil spring inside the length of the hose).
Bill
Vancouver, BC
----- Original Message -----
From: William Huff
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] overheating 413. any suggestions?
Hi Mel,
I have read about this controversy before, the opinion of engine builders
seems to be that changing the cylinder wall thickness by .030" per side will
not make an engine overheat. As far as my research has shown, thin cylinder
walls can affect ring seal under load, and of course, too thin can lead to
failure. It is hard to follow the logic that too thin can cause less heat
transfer to the surrounding water.
I have experienced engines with clogs in the water jacket. These were auto
engines used in boats (Mercruiser) many years ago. Sealing the engine block
and putting a dilute muriatic acid solution in the water jackets for a few
hours seemed to leave them in good shape, all corrosion was gone but the
base metal was unaffected.
Also, why do you believe that 200 degrees is overheating? A pressurized
radiator system is made to be capable of over 212 degrees, and I believe
they do run in that neighborhood, no matter what thermostat you put in.
Where you measure the temperature may be a key factor as well, is the sender
in the stock location? Some threaded holes may be hotter than others.
Another question is, when does the temperature climb? Running on the
freeway or stuck in traffic or is the same all the time?
One thing that you can do is remove the radiator cap (cold) and run the
engine. Make sure that the water level goes down when the engine is revved
slightly and that the water is circulating after the thermostat is open. I
assume you put a new water pump in, but I have had two RB engines that had
the impeller slide backwards on the shaft and grind the blades shorter.
Temperatures went up then.
Regards,
Bill Huff
I recently bored a 413 .030 and am having trouble with it overheading.. Im
on my 4rth radiator and 3rd fan. No matter what I do, idle or down the
road, Im running 205-215degrees. Used a mechanical gauge, mark 8 fan, 3
water pumps, 2 copper and 3 allum new radiators, Im at wits end.. any ideas
from past experience? Im starting to wonder if the .060 was too much. any
comments?
mel
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