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Larry, How did you determine there was no spark? There might be a weak spark that still wouldn't start the car. First thing I would try is to make sure there is power voltage (measured to ground) on both sides of ballast resister when the ignition switch is on. If that is good, check the + side of the coil for voltage when the switch is on. The - side of the coil should also show some voltage when the points are open, but not when they are closed. It is important to make sure the points open and close, gap isn't that important just to start the car, but if the points don't open and close no spark will be generated. The points have to conduct electricity and must be clean, they can get a corrosion over them that will prevent ignition. A small piece of very fine flint sandpaper folded over and run between the closed points should do it. Don't use emery, it is conductive. The condenser can go bad. In my experience they usually cause poor running rather than a no start, no spark condition. A quick and dirty test can be done with an ohmmeter once the condenser lead is disconnected from the points. The ohmmeter should show a quick jump then go to a very high reading, showing that the capacitor is charged. Hope this helps, those are the things I found most troublesome when I had ignition problems in the cars of my youth. Bill Huff At 8/16/200812:26 PM, Larry Ashbaugh wrote: After sitting for over a year, my 57 Coronet (325/Powerflite) is not getting any spark. I know the gas is bad and will drain it today, but the "no spark" issue has me thrown. Can't see a spark at the pints, and none at the sparkplug. Replaced the coil and ballast resistor with what I believe to be good ones, but no success, Cap and wires look good. Any thoughts? ************************************************************* To unsubscribe or set your subscription options,
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