Re: [FWDLK] Torqued off
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: [FWDLK] Torqued off



Hello All:
 
    Let me share an experience that may be relevant to the torsion bar question.  When restoring my 56 Fury, I took the rear springs off and saw that one of the bottom springs was cracked.  I took both sets of springs to a spring shop and had two new bottom springs made.  I did this so they would match and be of the same strength.
 
    I then took all but the bottom or main springs to be blasted and powder coated.  I was not sure what the heat of powder coating would do the springs, so did not take any chances and painted the bottom springs.  Today over a decade later all is well and I cannot tell the difference between the powder coated and painted springs. 
 
    Therefore, my thought is to paint the torsion bars as nicely as you can.  No one will be able to tell the difference and you can rest easy that you probably will not have to touch them again.
 
    John Teske
 
 
In a message dated 1/8/2011 9:47:15 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, whuff@xxxxxxxxxx writes:
I agree with all except the sandblasting.  Sandblasting does leave a rough surface, actually too rough for immediate painting, which I suspect could lead to stress risers.  I would prefer media blasting, maybe walnut shells.  Smoothing would be on the menu too. 

Bill Huff

At 1/8/201101:41 AM, Richard Barber wrote:
Lou:
 
I don’t have much experience with torsion bars other than that a 2-year old bar broke on my ’61 Valiant­my first new car.  As a corrosion engineer, I noted that the coating had been nicked and the salt of Omaha streets had worked on the exposed steel and allowed a crack to start.  Nice thing about torsion bars is that the ends just slid out and enabled the Valiant putt on down to the Chrysler dealer for a warranty replacement.
 
If I were to restore a torsion bar, I’d have it sandblasted, polish out any nicks or cracks, have it Magnafluxed for cracks, spray it with zinc-rich primer and follow with a coating of POR-15 or something similar. The zinc in the primer will give you some protection against future nicking of the coating.   You could also have the sandblasted and inspected bar lightly galvanized and then powdercoat it.  That would provide excellent corrosion protection which you may or may not need­depending on your planned use of the car.
 
The opinions of others more experienced is welcome.
 
Rich Barber
 
Date:    Fri, 7 Jan 2011 20:28:39 -0500
From:    Lou Vecchioni <email4lou@xxxxxxxxxxx >
Subject: Torsion bar re-coating/paint dip, or powder coat??

I've been perusing the fwlk and imperial web board, googling, etc, and I can't find anything that helps me decide whether or not the original style thick paint is better than powder coating (or even if powder coating can withstand the twisting stress).

I have my torsion bars off and will be wiping them down and inspecting for chips and rust this weekend.  Next week or so I will be sending off various front suspension pieces to be media blasted and powder coated....but I'm unsure what to do with the torsion bars.   Can they be blasted and treated the same way?

Thanks,
Lou

 

*************************************************************

To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook A=1

*************************************************************

To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1

*************************************************************

To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1




Home Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network


Copyright © The Forward Look Network. All rights reserved.

Opinions expressed in posts reflect the views of their respective authors.
This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated.