Going back to my question about whether T/bars were designed to be
lubricated...
if the ends' of the bars were properly inserted into their ft/rr receptacles, I can't see how mere corrosion at those bar-insertions could cause a bar to break.Making them a BITCH to remove: sure, but causing their failure (because they're still able to rotate freely)..I dunno.I'm trying to contact a guy, back east, now (long-retired) who IIRC, had had a T/bar fail on his newly purchased 57 Plymouth.I had 'heard' that the bars broke because of bad metalurgy, and that they either broke quickly or that they out-lasted the car's lifetime. Neil Vedder Joe Savard wrote: The original reason that the bars broke was corrosion at the rear socket due to salt build-up in the winter. Chrysler didn't catch that it would be a problem during the first year of production. Time was a factor. As soon as they realized what was happening, a rubber bushing/seal was installed, and the problem went away, as far as I know. Joe Savard, 19 degree snowy Lake Orion, Michigan In a message dated 1/9/2011 9:31:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, jrawa@xxxxxxx writes:i have a feeling the bars that break had a production flaw that just needed enought stress to allow failure- at 50+ yrs old now- if they didnt break yet- i'd say youre safe. the trick may be constant use- spring steel has memory but dormancy may also raise the risk factor- as other "springs" do sag without use or with overloading. ************************************************************* To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go tohttp://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1 <http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1> ************************************************************* To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
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