A little late to this party, but I've used a place called The Clock Works
twice now. They were very reasonable. '58 DeSoto was around $75. That
included some new bushings. A little slow, but I sent the clock in the fall
when the car was down for the winter. They even changed a brand F clock,
which strangely is electrical, not electrically would, from 6V to 12V for a
modest price.
--Roger van Hoy
-----Original Message-----
From: paul
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2012 2:08 PM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Clock repairs?
On 2/10/2012 3:44 PM, Eastern Sierra Adjustment Svc wrote:
Thanks to all who replied for your info on clock repair facilities..
The first company which responded to my inquiry, yesterday, was Classic
Auto Electric,
of McPherson IL, classicautoelectric.com , and its owner, Joe Dickhut,
has been very helpful and informative.
He can replace the points & service the clock for $125.00, and, for
$25bux more
he will do some electrical magic that will provide an "alternate route"
for the
current to bypass(?) the points and greatly prolong the working life of
the clock.
He said this, most recently, and provided a photo of badly deteriorated
points.
Neil Vedder
This is exactly what the points look like as they deteriorate. The
residue you can see alongside this point is actually material that has
been "blown away" by the repeated arcing of the points. You can file the
surface "clean" again, but when you file the surface you remove more of
the point material. If you file the points very many times, there will
soon be no points left. At that point (forgive the pun) you are out of
luck because the points are not replaceable.
On 2/10/2012 12:35 AM, Dave Homstad wrote:
The "contact points " are probably corroded. If you can get the cover
off to expose them, an ignition points file might fix them.
When the main spring winds down, it causes the points to close. The
points then activate a solenoid that rewinds the main spring. About
every 10 minutes. If the points are too corroded or dirty (oil doesn't
help), the electrical contact doesn't make. WD40 lubricates the
mechanism and allows a dirty/sticky works to move, for a while.
When the battery is weak, the points may close but there may not be
enough voltage to operate the solenoid. It just sits there passing
current until it overheats and burns out the solenoid's coil. Sticky
works may do the same thing.
there is a simple easy to implement impediment to arc'ing, well used in
the telecom industry when all the telephone switching was
electro-mechanical, a passive resister/capacitor across the powersource
and ground at the closest point you can get to. really cuts down on the
arcing. Sort of like whats supposed to be on your generator or your
distributors points
--
Paul Holmgren
Mine: 2 57 300-C's in Indy
Hers: 05 PT GT R/T HO Stage 1
Hoosier Corps L#6
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