Thanks, Rich; years ago, I did try to field strip my clock, but wasn't
able to remove the crown from the winding stem.
That sounds like a simple enough protocol, but that crown
did not want to separate, and so, rather than risk breaking it, I've (now)
sent it out for an O/H--twice, in 30 years of ownership.
In the past, the clock would not 'hold' a timing adjustment, and this
time, WD40 would not get it running again.
I will ask for some photos of 'before' and after, from the clock doc.
Neil Vedder
On 2/11/2012 10:46 PM, Rich Barber wrote:
Neil Vedder and others with stopped clocks:
I note you are a MoPar activist and very knowledgeable thereof. So, I
believe you should take a shot at getting your clock up and running on your
own. Unless it has broken a spring or one of the fine wires to the solenoid
coil, the problem is most likely burnt points and/or lack of lube on the
bearing points in the clockworks. Pop it apart, file the points, get some
very light clock oil to the pivot points with a Q-tip, get the ticker wheel
working by finger and it should take off. I'm a fumble-thumb retired
mechanical engineer and I got the clock for my '55 C-300 working in a short
time. Then calibrated it while hooked to a 6-Volt lantern battery (all on
the dining room table--sort of a small& acceptable project). Adjusting the
clock forward or backward also adjusts the clock speed and the clocks can be
made quite accurate. Gives one a sense of satisfaction by actually fixing
something in-house instead of sending it out for service. I did authorize
conversion of the clock in my '64K convertible to quartz--don't tell the
concours judges.
There is also speculation that the clock will run the battery down quickly.
I disagree but see that if the points stick closed, that could happen. I
ran the clock on the little lantern battery for several eeks with no
measureable Voltage drop as measured by a DVM.
BTW, my C-300 did not originally come with a clock, so I bought one on e-bay
that needed service. There is speculation that they were standard on 300's,
but 300's without a "1" under the "A" on the fender tag tend not to have
them. The blank in the clock space was very similar to the bezel and
medallion in the center of the horn ring. The clock is one of the few items
on a C-300 that is fused, most other circuits being protected by circuit
breakers.
Good luck with whatever fix seems most appropriate for you.
C-300-K'ly,
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA (where Spring has Sprung-weather-wise)
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