Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam

Another approach is to use Valvoline VR-1 racing oil; it has more ZDDP.

However, a friend showed me an article in the Packard Pelican or whatever it is that says VR-1 doesn’t have enough detergent. I suspect it’s still more than oil 50 years ago.

--Roger van Hoy

From: Jim

Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014 12:16 PM

To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam

I've found two easy ways to get the ZDDP back in the oil. One is to buy the Redline Break-In Additive and use about 3 oz of it with each oil change. The other, even easier, is to buy a can of STP, which has the right amount of ZDDP in it, when you buy the oil and filter and put the STP in along with the new oil. The advantage of the Redline is that it's actually a little cheaper per dose and is easy to poor. The STP is thick and hard to pour. But the STP is available anywhere so it's pretty convenient.

From: Bill Parker <hemirr@xxxxxxxxx>
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sunday, August 3, 2014 12:09 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam

Thanks for the input guys. I agree about the oil. I've driven the car a total of about 10 miles since buying it from another list member who also didn't drive it during his ownership I believe. There is a receipt from a commercial garage showing a ring and bearing job, but the receipt has no date on it. The inside of the engine is very clean and the oil isn't bad either so since that minor overhaul it must have been reasonably maintained, but of course with low ZDDP oil like we are all stuck with in the mainstream oils. I'm thinking of using rotella once I'm back up and running since I don't have a converter to get clogged up with zinc.

Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana, harboring of bunch of old and newer Mopars

On Sun, Aug 3, 2014 at 2:12 PM, Neil Vedder <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Oh, that must be absolutely true, because nobody in the old car
hobby knows about the effects of NOT having ZDDP in flat tappet
car engines.

And, of course, the ruined cam shafts render the car and its engine completely
unrepairable and worthless.

The car mechanics, in particular, hate the effects of having to work on these
damaged engines.

Neil Vedder

On 8/3/2014 12:05 AM, Dave Homstad wrote:

Bill,

You might give some thought as to WHY the cam has developed 3 bad lobes.

Here is a good article about how "OIL IS KILLING OUR CARS!!!!!".

http://www.dctra.org/?p=79

Personnally, I think this is a plot by the EPA to get old cars off the roads quicker, by removing the ZDDP from our oils.

Dave Homstad

56 Dodge D500

On Sat, Aug 2, 2014 at 6:43 PM, Bill Parker wrote:

Hello all, I tore into the '60 Saratoga engine today, an RB 383, and as I suspected from the symptoms, it has a wiped camshaft. One lobe is just a little nubbin', and two others are clearly half what they should be. Seems like a simple cam swap is in order except of course for the small matter of early B/RB lifters and pushrods being different dimensions from the later ('66 and later?) stuff. From a previous experience with putting a cam and lifter kit into a '65 engine, I think I recall that the late lifters are taller, and must use the late pushrods to compensate. I could have it backwards, but in any case, I think the solution to using a late cam and lifter kit is using the late pushrods too. I have several core 440 engines and I'm thinking, make a cam selection, buy the late style lifters with it, and use a set of the 440 pushrods (being that both my '60 383 and the 440's are RB engines with the same deck height). Comments/cautions/suggestions? This is not my hot rod and I plan to go with a pretty mild cam.

Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana, harboring of bunch of old and newer Mopars

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