i assumed you were making your own ? People try with pliers etc , to squeeze , cannot be done right . You need the terminal crimping tool and matching terminals , which Taylor sells loose . Yes the tool for pulling radio wires off plugs was around 1950's? later wires became mire robust but still pulling could break them . Also of no value on a hemi
Grease in plug is best , then it comes apart ok but just fixing a car they did not care about later .
On hemi When plug grip at top is too tight , spring too strong , you have no choice but to pull on the wire , if stuck tight you pull wire right out of insulator now a mess to deal with OEM had none of this , no reinforcing spring in plug snap on top came off plug easily . Sorry for confusion , this was in context of packard wires , you had to make them yourself , and being copper you could solder wire to clip , which I did . will not come free no matter what , 100 lb pull I've even tried gluing modern radio wires inside the hemi insulator with weatherstrip adhesive ,--- it does not stick to silicone at all Going to post to club , good info you have asked about Jim , just being aware of all this avoids pitfalls In 2026 premade set probably best answer to all this See user stars on each brand etc ?
On Aug 17, 2026, at 6:45 PM, James Daniel <jd1968ci@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
John, Thank you for that information. I thought you were referring to a boot/wire removal (from the plug) tool like the Taylor 043392.
Are you talking about having a tool to recrimp new connectors onto plug wires in the event the boots get stuck to the spark plugs? Please let me know. Jim Daniel hi Jim it is their crimp tool puts on brass ends independent of insulator you use When you buy ends , it offers it to you , have to pick various choices sizes etc I wanted to use stock hemi insulators these were brown plastic , ends did not in them very well , had hassles grabs plug top too tight loosed that spring grabber or took extra one they had off . No need to grab so hard . Been 4-5 years sorry not mire concise . Might consider just buying hemi set . Watch lengths if 392 vs 426 set hope this helps , john John, Can you tell me which (part#) Taylor removal tool that you are recommending? Also, is it for the hemi (recessed plugs) or the wedge head plugs (383-440)? Please let me know. Thank you, Jim Daniel They DO radiate far more garbage . The reason on hemi you had quiet is they are covered with metal like a corvette with very little exposed . And effectiveness of hood Radio wires got a bad rep as early ones had fiberglas strands with carbon thread or woven wrap . If someone pulled the wire off a plug without the tool they said you had to have ( kind of a Y shaped thing with two tabs at tips that just cleared plug but pulled up on insulator) , you DID break the filament causing poor idle skip etc . So much for " original wires" . Add to that heat often welded insulator boot to plug ( silicone grease helps that) You can test radio wires,on high ohms scale , less than 40000 ohms they are good . They vary all over the place .But never more than 40000 I had ideas about "not losing power "in the resistor when young That is all wrong . 40 k ohms is nothing to 50 kv . Interference or not depends on hood grounding efc etc . Use of resistor plugs and radio wires is common now ... dont know
Todays radios on AM are a joke compared to the best tube or hybrid radios concurrent with our cars . I used to listen to WPTR troy ny in boston every night in my 60 dodge , still remember 14xx ! Great station ... Try that on AM today ..
I too made packard "440" wires, still have 100' roll -- used to look for early hemi wires with ceramic insulators in junkyard to use .
Today , Taylor wires and others make spiral core wires that use "L" ( millihenry ) of a radio choke coil wound around center made of Kevlar and moderate R to suppress noise . Good stuff , although I have had to use 8 mm wire , ( recent 270 hemi) can be problem maybe not . You DO need the Taylor tool, save hours of frustration and still end up with end you can pull off Fiberglass sleeves are good on some ram / B block plugs that are tight to manifold , as well as very careful shaping . Black wires allow black tie wraps to prevent sliding in stand holes too Still learning ... One last thing ,I have several times going back to 1968 I encountered intermittent skip could not find it ( note the "several times " part, throwing parts at it ) on B blocks . Long sad tale cut short fir here (ling on the first time , 68 charger 440 ) in the wire into coil tower (!) an arc can go right under that insulator all the way to one of the coil nuts (!!!!) Cannot see it in day . Saw it at night ( yow! could not believe it ) . While car was skipping.!!! ? wide plug gap , broken wire , whatever? . Old sets had a taller insulator there than distributor , new ones often not , Volts ARE higher there due to rotor gap in series with plug .
Took wire out clean that tower spotless ( often has oily dirt on it) put silicone grease turn wire end cap to spread = no more of that . Heads up ! On plug sets , and stock wires too , hard to beat NGK . Japanese engineering Your mileage will not vary ! laugh
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