To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 19 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Looking for Bill Arnold
From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. re article in Automobile Quarterly
From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Fw:
From: "John Peabody" <Jpeabo@xxxxxxx>
4. The Chrysler 300 LetterCars poster
From: Oddvin Skråmestø <ragtopman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Winter Storage
From: "George Riehl" <griehl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Winter Storage
From: "terry & Andree Hoeman" <tehoema@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. re contact with Chrysler 300 club in Klakamas Oregon
From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Brake Drums
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: C Leaf Spring Free Height
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: re article in Automobile Quarterly
From: "Don Warnaar" <300country@xxxxxxx>
11. [Fwd: [Fwd: Chickencoop Cars]]
From: Lindsey Fuller <lfuller@xxxxxxxx>
12. Re: brake drums &N2
From: BKWare@xxxxxxx
13. 68 300 vert sun visors?
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
14. RE: C Leaf Spring Free Height
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: C Leaf Spring Free Height
From: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Bat wing Aircleaners
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: C Leaf Spring Free Height
From: jlsavard@xxxxxxx
18. Re: Springs
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Springs - more
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 08:38:35 -0600
From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Looking for Bill Arnold
Would anyone in the group happen to know the whereabouts of Bill Arnold from
California who used to own a white 1965 300L 4 speed convertible. It's the
one at the bottom of the large Chrysler 300 poster. An address or a phone
number, anything would be great as I would like to get in touch with him
regarding that car. Many thanks from Fern
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 08:58:00 -0600
From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: re article in Automobile Quarterly
Does anyone have a copy of the magazine Automotive Quarterly, Volume
XIII , number 4? It had an article on all Chrysler 300's as shown on the
large Chrysler 300 poster. I am particularly interested in seeing it as it
had my 1965 300L 4 speed car as shown on the poster.
Now would anyone have a phone number or email address for "Automobile
Quarterly" magazine as I would like to contact them?
Many thanks from Fern
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 11:36:41 -0400
From: "John Peabody" <Jpeabo@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw:
----- Original Message -----
From: John Peabody
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 7:51 PM
To: Bob Merritt
Subject:
Hello fellow 300 owners. I'm new to the club and have some questions. I was told that I would have trouble starting my c-300 when it sat longer than three weeks. The person was right. He said that the gas would flow back down the fuel line
past the fuel pump and back to the tank. This info. is wrong as I had full fuel levels in both filter bowls. Both WCFB's had good acc. pump streams shooting into the bowls. So why does this Hemi crank so long? Does the fuel go stale? Why doesn't the gas in the tank go stale? It does seem that it starts when it cranks long enough to shoot fresh gas into the carbs. When run every day, it starts with less than one full crank, These kind of thing bug me and maybe the answers aren't to important, but I still
am curious. thanks. Also let me ask you Plymouth people if you have seen or even heard of a 'barker'? These were tail pipe extensions placed on 'formula S' Barracudas and Valliant's. I seem to remember that you couldn't get duel pipes on early Cudas, so the Chrysler folks added a 'Barker'. These had a distinct sound to them kind of like the cans the kids put on the new imports. This is also not to important to most people, but I haven't seen one since I worked at a Chrysler dealer back in '68-'69. Nobody I know has ever heard of one. What would one be worth today? Also to Jim Faber, Thanks for the '55 cap centers,
Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.comGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 19:36:47 +0200
From: Oddvin Skråmestø <ragtopman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The Chrysler 300 LetterCars poster
Hi folks
The poster you all have been looking for is here:
http://www.autotrend.com/9014.html
Oddvin Skråmestø
Norway
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 14:03:58 -0400
From: "George Riehl" <griehl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Winter Storage
Hi Group,
With just putting the "L" to bed for the winter (even though it is in a
heated building) one important thing to do is to make sure the gas tank is
full. This will keep the condensation down to a minimum. Over the years
this was not done my "L" and the inside of the tank and sender show all
kinds of rust. So much, that it will need to be dropped out and cleaned out
and probably will need to be sealed. Another thing that is a good idea is to
change the engine oil to remove any contaminates that are present. Plus,
put a good quality cover on the car (after washing the car) this will keep
the dust off the paint so the chances of scratching are kept down.
Disconnect and remove the battery. Keep the battery somewhere warm so if and
when it does go dead it will not freeze. If possible lower the windows some
to allow any trapped moisture to escape from the interior as this really
makes a mess of the interior chrome. Another good idea is to put plastic
under the car. This will keep any condensation that comes up from the floor
to collect on the underside of the car. I am sure the rest of the group has
other suggestions that they have used so, lets hear some.....
George
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 13:27:23 -0500
From: "terry & Andree Hoeman" <tehoema@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Winter Storage
D-Con all around the building where the varmints may enter and moth balls
inside!!!!
Hate the little varmints!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Riehl" <griehl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2001 1:03 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Winter Storage
> Hi Group,
>
> With just putting the "L" to bed for the winter (even though it is in a
> heated building) one important thing to do is to make sure the gas tank is
> full. This will keep the condensation down to a minimum. Over the years
> this was not done my "L" and the inside of the tank and sender show all
> kinds of rust. So much, that it will need to be dropped out and cleaned
out
> and probably will need to be sealed. Another thing that is a good idea is
to
> change the engine oil to remove any contaminates that are present. Plus,
> put a good quality cover on the car (after washing the car) this will keep
> the dust off the paint so the chances of scratching are kept down.
> Disconnect and remove the battery. Keep the battery somewhere warm so if
and
> when it does go dead it will not freeze. If possible lower the windows
some
> to allow any trapped moisture to escape from the interior as this really
> makes a mess of the interior chrome. Another good idea is to put plastic
> under the car. This will keep any condensation that comes up from the
floor
> to collect on the underside of the car. I am sure the rest of the group
has
> other suggestions that they have used so, lets hear some.....
>
> George
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 13:08:01 -0600
From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: re contact with Chrysler 300 club in Klakamas Oregon
I just found some information relavent to the Chrysler 300 posters that
I had last purchased from the Chrysler 300 Club in Klakamas Oregon. Anyone
know if there address is still current as I would like to contact them. Best
regards from Fern
PS : Those posters back then in 1996 sold for around $15 each and I think
that included postage.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 13:00:04 -0700
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Drums
Hi Gang
I will look into this brake issue. I was lucky my C project that sat for 25
years when I bought it. The drums must have just been replace after the
trans dumped and never moved after that. My front drums cleaned up at .010"
over.
I will look at other drums I have to analyze the lost art that John refers
to. I also like Georges remarks to replace the studs. This would overcome
the worn or rust pitted studs we often see. The challenge is getting
correct size.
I have made many a tool to work on my old parts. As I have a machine shop
in my business this is easy to do.
The tool required to cut the staked area around the stud and one to re
stake would not be difficult to make. We also have a 25 ton hydraulic H
frame press to easily push out studs and a 50 ton stamping press to re
stake studs.
I also turn my own drums as I don't trust the under paid and under trained
personnel,(for the most part) that don't realize the importance in the set
up so the drum surface runs true to the spindle or axle shaft that they
mount to. after turning I mounted mine to spindles and axle shafts,(no
backing plates) to check for run out. An indicator showed that I was less
than factory spec. of .005" at the outside edge of the drum surface.
If anybody is interested let me know.
Last but not least the hub cap masking project is almost complete,(yea
right he has been saying that forever). The photos of application are on my
web site and the detailed instructions are complete and will be on my site
next week. During this time I have completed the masks for 61 Dodge that
Larry J. needed. Those will be on there also.
A project that I thought would take a few weeks took a few months.
The big effort was all of the thought process and writing detailed
instructions to make the masks as easy to install as possible.
When my site is 100% complete I will post on List Serve. After that any
body with a different cap can send it to me as Larry did and we will do the
reverse engineering to get the mask made. Of course your cap will be returned.
I am not familiar with all 300 caps but did see photo of a 63 and would be
good candidate for mask set.
I will also be doing masks for any make or model that at least has the
potential to sell a few.
Gary The Parts Doc
At 08:50 PM 10/13/2001 -0400, John Hertog wrote:
>Hey all,
>
>Local brake shop in my area is run by an older man, who used to work for the
>county garage in the late 50's early 60's , and serviced all the Mopar cop
>cars. He's taught me much about the 55-64 type of brake drums. He spent most
>of his times trying to keep the brakes working on these cop cars - not an
>enviable task. They were the weakest link...Basically, where we stand today,
>there's almost no way to "do it right" . If your drums are worn, firstly,
>there are almost no new replacement drums available anywhere, and at a
>reasonable price. And secondly, the technology to remove the old drum from
>the hub and replace with a new one has pretty much disappered.
>
>These drums are indeed an integral part of the hub; they are held on to the
>hub by the wheel lugs, that have been staked over to hold the drums in
>place. In order to remove a drum from a hub and replace with a newer unit,
>there are two special tools involved.
>
>Tool #1 is made to "cut" the peened - over section of the wheel lugs. Then
>the lugs can be pressed out of the hub, and the old drum easily removed.
>NOTE : any attempt to press out the lug WITHOUT cutting the peened-over
>portion will result in damage to the grooves in the hub that hold the lugs
>into place !
>
>Tool#2 is made to peen over the new lugs once the new drum is installed in
>the hub (with new lugs already pressed in ) . This duplicates the process by
>which these things were manufactured.
>
>The big problem is that tools #1 and #2 are NLA - no longer available. I
>have seen them listed in old Wagner brake tool catalogs and such. Since
>such drums went out of style many years ago, brake shops have forgotten this
>technique, deep-sixed or lost the tools, and none are to be found anywhere.
>
>So - conclusion? our best source of drums is - salvage yards. There's still
>a good supply of these out there, with plenty of meat still on the drums.
>
>John
>
>
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 13:12:50 -0700
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: C Leaf Spring Free Height
I have that dimension somewhere. I will look for it as I did check mine.
That also reminds me I have a new set of rear springs for 300C. Same for D
and I would guess E. I got over zealous when I first bought my C project
and found out my originals where excellent and where right in free height
spec. I will sell for same price that I paid club for. $195 for pair. These
are the HD 300 style.
Gary The parts Doc
At 09:04 PM 10/13/2001 -0500, Wayne Graefen wrote:
>The spec that Owen is looking for is referred to as "free height". It is
>the perpendicular measurement from a line drawn between the center of the
>main leaf eyes to the main leaf at the center bolt. This would be in an
>Eaton or other spring company catalog for the 300 or H.D. extra-leaf spring.
>
>I don't have any such catalog and would appreciate hearing this dimension
>myself. Had it from a catalog about a dozen years ago when I had the leafs
>in my first C re-arced, but didn't plan to write a C Handbook at the time!
>
>Wayne
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
>Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 3:43 AM
>To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [Chrysler300] Digest Number 52
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>There are 17 messages in this issue.
>
>Topics in this digest:
>
> 1. RE: Spindles, brake conversions
> From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
> 2. RE: stopping distances
> From: Bruce Paul <b_paul_ncp@xxxxxxxxx>
> 3. Re: more on modifications
> From: Bruce Paul <b_paul_ncp@xxxxxxxxx>
> 4. Re: more on modifications
> From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
> 5. hp improvement
> From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
> 6. Re: hp improvement
> From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
> 7. Re: hp improvement
> From: "The Holmgren's" <paulholm@xxxxxxxx>
> 8. Re: more on modifications
> From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
> 9. RE: hp improvement
> From: Paul Thomassen <thomassenp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> 10. Re: more on modifications
> From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
> 11. 4-Speed K Vert
> From: Sean Ellis <slim724@xxxxxxxxx>
> 12. Bat wing Aircleaners
> From: hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx
> 13. Open Trailer Available from San Diego to Bay Area
> From: "Henry Hopkins" <hhrp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> 14. Re: Bat wing Aircleaners
> From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 15. wanted chrysler 300 posters!
> From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 16. brake conversions problem
> From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 17. Springs
> From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 07:12:11 -0400
> From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: RE: Spindles, brake conversions
>
>Good mornin'.
>As far as the master cylinder, you should be right. Additionally, for the
>over/under booster cars, a '69 Dart dual master works also. The real key for
>the pre-'62 cars isn't the mount bolt spacing (same for many years) but lid
>clearance. The '69 Dart dual master that I used on my '61 Newport
>(w/Aspen/Volare discs) was very low profile; rectangular in shape and had a
>verrrry convenient center hold-down bolt that when loosened, allowed the lid
>to be moved a 1/4 turn, greatly facilitating easy fluid check/add.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: The Holmgren's [mailto:paulholm@xxxxxxxx]
>Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 10:14 PM
>To: JONES,DOUG (A-USA,ex3)
>Cc:
>Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Spindles, brake conversions
>
>
>"JONES,DOUG (A-USA,ex3)" wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Just got of the phone with AAJ Brakes. He is a very small business and is
> > expanding his product line as fast as he can. At this time, neither he
>nor
> > I know what the difference between a '62 and a '63-4 kit would be, other
> > than that it is probable that the spindles are different due to the
>Lockheed
> > brakes.
> >
> > He said that he has heard that a '73 - '79 B body master cylinder (dual
> > circuit) supposedly will bolt right on to a 'forward look' MoPar. Can
> > anybody confirm that this is so?
> >
> > If one of you has an interchange manual, you can help AAJ and the rest of
>us
> > out by determining which cars have the same spindle as a '62 Dodge 880
>(the
> > kit he has now) and which have the same spindle as a '63-4 Chrysler.
>Better
> > yet would be a 'spindle roster' from '55 to '65, as this would show the
> > total number of kits needed to cover all these cars.
> >
> > My understanding is that AAJ kits are non-destructive and the car can be
> > converted back to stock if this is desired later on. That would suit me
> > fine, as I would rather not do anything that cannot be undone.
> >
> > 300ly,
> > Doug
>
>
>ok here is the info in my interchange; 50-65 years only listed;
>
>ALL 57 should match FULL size 58-62 Chryslers excluding Windsor &
>Newport
>63-64 are listed as different.
>65 diff from rest, both drum and disk
>According to this source you are limited to CHRYSLER ONLY,
>none of the Dodge, Plymouth work, ONLY Desoto 57-61 would interchange
>depending on application
>
>BUT They ALL use the same inner and outer bearings
>
>So I think there is probably differences in spindle length and how
>the various parts bolt on. So I would infer that a side-by-side eyeball
>inspection would have to occur.
>I do have a spare 57 spindle sitting around.
>
>--
>Paul Holmgren
>Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
>2 57 300-C's in Indy
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 05:30:22 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Bruce Paul <b_paul_ncp@xxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: RE: stopping distances
>
>While it hopefully is a rare occurrence, any of us who
>have had to drive our drum brake equipped cars through
>high water will also appreciate the advantage that
>disc brakes offer. Drum brakes are nearly ineffective
>after getting soaked until they dry out, but disc
>brakes don't seem to suffer any ill effects.
>
>I still plan on leaving my classics as they came from
>the factory. We all have to make our own decisions
>about what to do with our personal possessions.
>
>Bruce Paul-Cherry Hill, NJ
>
>
>--- "JONES,DOUG (A-USA,ex3)" <doug_jones@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>wrote:
> > Gents,
> >
> > A quick question ... I also dug into my current mags
> > (C & D mostly) trying
> > to establish current stopping distance performance,
> > but the measure is 70 to
> > 0, not 60 to 0. Where are you guys getting modern
> > 60 to 0 distances?
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Doug
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: John Hertog [mailto:crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 8:59 PM
> > To: Ron Waters; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: [Chrysler300] stopping distances
> >
> >
> > Hi Ron,
> >
> > Good question, about stopping distances. A few
> > months back I went thru some
> > period car magazines and charted stopping distances
> > for our cars, as
> > reported by Car Life, Road and Track, HotRod, etc. ;
> > sixty-to-zero type of
> > stuff. I then compared to stopping distances for
> > current cars as reported
> > in same magazines road tests.
> > I was VERY surprised to see that there was little or
> > no difference between
> > the two! I'm not prepared to start the research
> > process all over again,
> > you'll have to take my word as to the results, or do
> > your own homework.
> >
> > To be fair, I also remember the comments from these
> > same period magazines,
> > describing the brakes as inadequate, prone to fade,
> > not on par with the rest
> > of the cars' performance, etc .; so it seems that
> > while the 300's did have
> > adequate zero-to-sixty stopping power, they somehow
> > displeased the
> > magazine's testers.
> >
> > It appears possible that a Chrysler 300 with a good
> > braking system will stop
> > in the same distance than a new, current, disc-brake
> > and ABS equipped sedan.
> > At least, on a one-time basis. I doubt this
> > performance could be repeated
> > when the drum brakes get hot. Of course, it can be
> > argued that you only
> > need ONE good stop if you have to jam on the brakes
> > in an emergency.
> >
> > My point, if I have one, is that disc brakes just
> > work more smoothly,
> > evenly, and reliably, especially after multiple use,
> > especially after they
> > have seen some use. They don't need periodic shoe
> > adjustement. I installed
> > discs on my 300L some 30,000 VERY HARD miles ago
> > and, so far, same pads are
> > still on the car. I've never had to mess with the
> > system in 30,000 miles.
> > I've never regretted installing them. But, as I
> > stated earlier, this car is
> > a real driver, not an occasional weekend / fair
> > weather ride.
> >
> > Kevin, you are quite right with your comments, by
> > the way. It is entirely
> > possible that if my beloved '62 300 Sport had not
> > been disc-brake equipped
> > and such a blast to drive, I might have just left it
> > home and driven my
> > Subaru Brat instead. Of course, had that been the
> > case, I'd be dead right
> > now. The speeding SUV that broadsided me at 60+ mph
> > didn't seem to care that
> > I was driving at 5 mph, or had disc brakes on my
> > car.
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
> > http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 05:49:39 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Bruce Paul <b_paul_ncp@xxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: more on modifications
>
>As someone stated earlier, in normal driving it would
>really be unusual to have to worry about brake fade
>with the original drum brakes. Stopping the first time
>is of utmost importance, but brake fade should not be
>a factor. Race track driving is another story.
>
>I feel that the original brakes on my G do a fine job.
>I wouldn't expect a 2+ ton car to stop as quickly as a
>1-1/2 ton car with discs and ABS. Have those of you
>who don't like the "feel" of your original drum brakes
>checked if the power brake booster, vacuum hoses, and
>vacuum reserve tank are doing their jobs properly?
>
>Bruce Paul-Cherry Hill, NJ
>
>
>--- "baker.6pack" <Baker.6pack@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > Hi John,
> >
> > Forgive me, but I just got to ask. How well did
> > that disc brake conversion
> > on your sport 300 keep you from getting in a bad
> > accident?
> > Just teasing you.
> >
> > K. Baker
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 5:49 PM
> > Subject: [Chrysler300] more on modifications
> >
> >
> > > Gang,
> > >
> > > OK, I can't help myself - gotta butt in ! I don't
> > own a Porsche or a
> > > Beemer, and nothing built after 1986 or so..
> > > I did rent a new Volvo something or other
> > recently, and of course I have
> > > driven newer cars of all type, here and there .
> > They just don't turn me on
> > > like my 300F/G's do! But they sure do stop
> > "better" . As in more evenly,
> > > smoothly, straight, time and time again.
> > >
> > > My 300L was converted to discs as soon as I bought
> > it. It is a pleasure to
> > > drive, and to STOP. Again and again and again and
> > again at nauseam. And
> > even
> > > with another 4000 lb. Chrysler sitting on the car
> > trailer being towed
> > behind
> > > the 300L. My other 300's, at this time two
> > 300G's, have the original
> > > braking systems, and, well, they sure detract from
> > the driving pleasure I
> > > experience anytime I take one of those cars out.
> > The brakes, and only the
> > > brakes, make these cars feel old and outdated.
> > >
> > > It is quite possible to upgrade the handling and
> > steering of a 300 in a
> > > gentle, non-butchering kind of way. The formula is
> > simple: install KYB
> > > shocks front and back, and have Eaton Spring make
> > you a set of new rear
> > > springs, one step heavier duty than stock. Have
> > the steering box rebuilt
> > to
> > > Firm-Feel spec, and install a new steering shaft
> > insulator bushing,
> > > available from Gary Goers. Make sure ALL of your
> > front end components are
> > in
> > > good shape - especially bushings. Then, get some
> > good tires ( I like
> > > Goodyear Eagle GT+4's, P235/75R15, V rated to
> > about 150 mph. ). If you
> > like
> > > to show your car, then just get a second set of
> > rims and switch back and
> > > forth between your "show, bias ply, correct
> > WWWidth tires" and your
> > > "driving, safe radial" tires. Have your car
> > aligned to Mike Laiserin
> > specs -
> > > max caster while still being able to retain camber
> > within spec. You'll now
> > > have a 300 that goes round corners and over bumps
> > and down the road
> > > oh-so-nice !
> > >
> > > Likewise it is possible to "upgrade" the original
> > 413 to run on today's
> > > lousy gas - as was pointed out earlier on this
> > listserver, lower the
> > > compression ratio a bit, back off the timing a
> > hair, and, PLEASE, leave
> > > those 2903's and 3505's carbs alone ! They're just
> > fine. If you crave
> > > performance, a little cylinder head porting will
> > bring you back to the
> > > original HP rating. If you crave MORE
> > performance, please don't butcher
> > up
> > > a 300 letter car. Get a 300 sport, Saratoga,
> > etc... and install your
> > fuelie
> > > / superchargers/ turbochargers on those cars
> > instead. Build a 300
> > look-alike
> > > like Dean Smith's '61 300R and have a lot of fun
> > with it.
> > >
> > > So - all this leads us back to - brakes. Most of
> > us will be content to
> > leave
> > > the original system alone. It's certainly useable.
> > It's safe, too, as long
> > > as ALL your brake lines have been replaced
> > recently and all wheel
> > cylinders
> > > and brake hoses renewed. Anyone out there driving
> > his or her 300 with ANY
> > > original brake line ( now 35 to 45 years old) or
> > brake hose - you've got a
> > > death wish. Replace ALL your steel brake lines -
> > including the
> > front-to-back
> > > one !
> > >
> > > Good point about the original drums, especially
> > for 300's up to 1962. I
> > > don't know where to get new ones except for
> > junkyards. Quite a few 300's
> > > that have come thru here in the past couple years
> > have had little or no
> > meat
> > > left on the drums - they're just plain worn down
> > to the cord and are past
> > > the safe/usable stage. The only source of good
> > brake drums that I know of
> > > is salvage yards and / or parts cars. If anyone
> > knows any different,
> > > please - LET ME KNOW ! I need drums for 300F and
> > 300G 's
> > >
> > > Both my 300G's have good drums, new shoes, new
> > lines, new wheel cylinders,
> > > hardware and return springs. Shoes have been
> > contour-ground to the drums.
> > > Much care has been taken in bleeding / adjusting/
> > etc. Both cars feel,
> > well,
> > > inadequate and unsatisfactory in the braking
> > departement.
> > >
> > > So - the one issue at hand is: to convert to
> > discs, or not to convert...
> > > it's a personal decision, and there's no right and
> > wrong - you should do
> > to
> > > your car what you want to do to your car. Most
> > people I know won't need
> > disc
> > > brake conversions. They don't drive their 300's
> > far enough, fast enough,
> > or
> > > hard enough. Those that do use their cars on a
> > regular basis, to travel
> > > great distances, and at a high rate of speed
> > whenever possible, might be
> > > tempted to do so. If that is the case, then
> > consider doing it in an
> > > unobtrusive and gentle manner - using the original
> > spindles and a bracket
> > to
> > > mount a caliper attached to said spindles. Such
> > a modification is not
> > > permanent and can be easily reversed, perhaps by
> > the next owner of your
> > 300.
> > > Same story with single versus dual master cylinder
> > setup.
> > >
> > > Dan Reitz has performed such mods to his 300F, and
> > it's an impressive
> > > difference over the stock setup. And, the car is
> > NOT butchered or
> > altered -
> > > it could probably be returned to 100% stock
> > configuration in a
> > couple-three
> > > hours. Way to go.
> > >
> > > Please - live and let live. Keeping your 300
> > original is always a safer
> > bet.
> > > It will increase its resale value and you'll be
> > able to say " it's all
> > > original" to all that may ask. If you drive long
> > and hard on today's
> > > highways, in traffic, putting on a few thousand
> > miles each year, it would
> > > seem like common sense to upgrade to disc brakes -
> > it might just save your
> > > life, and certainly will help to preserve your
> > 300, from getting into a
> > bad
> > > accident.
> > >
> > > If you must modify, please do so in a gentle,
> > unobtrusive and reversible
> > > manner. These are rare, very special collector
> > cars and should be treated
> > > with the respect they deserve.
> >
>=== message truncated ===
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 10:01:29 EDT
> From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: more on modifications
>
>Hi all:
>
>Everyone seems to key in on being able to stop once with no brake fade.
>There are other occasions where brakes will fade and there is no panic
>stopping involved. Years ago I drove my '56 Dodge over the Santa Monica
>mountains to the ocean. When I got to the bottom of the steep winding road,
>I had virtually no brakes. The last mile or so, I was in low range. If I
>had disc brakes, I would not have had this problem. This is one of the key
>reasons I converted my 300F to discs.
>
>Dan Reitz
>Northridge, CA
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 11:00:46 -0700 (PDT)
> From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: hp improvement
>
>http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/mycoffeecan/page1.html
>
>
>
>=====
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
>http://personals.yahoo.com
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 6
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 14:48:36 EDT
> From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: hp improvement
>
>In a message dated 10/12/2001 2:02:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx writes:
>
>
> >
>
>A coffe can would really look stupid on a 300.
>
>Mike Meyer
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 7
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 14:12:53 -0500
> From: "The Holmgren's" <paulholm@xxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: hp improvement
>
>moparted wrote:
> >
> > http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/mycoffeecan/page1.html
> >
> > =====
>
>YESSSS!!!! but what would be the total gain with dual exhaust????
>
>--
>Paul Holmgren
>Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
>2 57 300-C's in Indy
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 14:40:07 EDT
> From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: more on modifications
>
>Most people use a lower gear when going down a mountain so that the vehicle
>acts as it's own brake. This keeps your top speed at a maximum. This will
>reduce brake fade and brake wearout and will also let you keep control of
>the
>vehicle. Don't need disc brakes to put a car in a lower gear.
>
>Mike Meyer
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 9
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 14:18:04 -0500
> From: Paul Thomassen <thomassenp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: RE: hp improvement
>
>Yes, that clears up a question I have had. Why Chrysler put those strange
>stainless steel exhaust tips on the 70 Hurst!
>
>Paul Thomassen
>thomassenp@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: moparted [mailto:moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx]
>Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 1:01 PM
>To: 300 CLUB
>Subject: [Chrysler300] hp improvement
>
>
>http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/mycoffeecan/page1.html
>
>
>
>=====
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
>http://personals.yahoo.com
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 10
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 15:26:08 EDT
> From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: more on modifications
>
>Gee Mike, thanks for the lesson.
>
>Dan
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 11
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 17:55:22 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Sean Ellis <slim724@xxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: 4-Speed K Vert
>
>Saw this on a cars and parts online ad. I have no idea
>about any of the claims of the ad, I'm just pasting
>it. Wonder if it's documented?? Anyone calling should
>obtain the VIN number for all the 300 Letter cars and
>pass them on to help update and maintain the registry.
>
>Chrysler 1964 300-K "rare 4-speed close ratio"
>convertible. Power steering, brakes, windows, seat.
>Extremely low production automobile needing total
>restoration $9,500. Factory air convertible parts car
>available. Also have unrestored automatic 300-K
>convertible available. 480-699-6160 (AZ)
>
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
>http://personals.yahoo.com
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 12
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 20:03:11 -0500
> From: hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Bat wing Aircleaners
>
>Hi Group;
>René Kroeger called me from the road and says he has a pair of Bat Wing
>Aircleaners for sale. Suitable for '55 & '56's. He wants $1000.00 firm
>You can reach him on his cell phone @ 1-515-314-1942 for more info about
>condition and suchlike.
>Ray Jones
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 13
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 19:33:53 -0700
> From: "Henry Hopkins" <hhrp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Open Trailer Available from San Diego to Bay Area
>
>Hello. I am delivering our 55 Imperial Newport to its new home in San Diego
>during the week of 10/22 to 10/26. Will have an empty triler on the return
>trip north. Anyone need a car hauled from San Diego or LA are up to the San
>Francisco/Bay Area. Will do for expenses.
>
>Let me know---Henry Hopkins 1510 North St., Berkeley, CA 510-559-134 or cell
>510-220-9134
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 14
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 19:36:25 -0700
> From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: Bat wing Aircleaners
>
>Beware on Renee Kroeger he gave me the shaft a couple of years ago on a set
>of WCFB
>Carbs. for a 1956 Chrysler . They were junk completly striped of all parts.
>They were
>sold as good shape just needed rebuilding. I paid $ 400 and
>the bases were rusted solid. Never could get them loose. He refused to give
>the money
>back and then would not answer any phone calls or letters. I even called
>the D.As office
>where he lives. They would not act in my behave . They had a $ 2000 min. to
>act on my
>complaint. So Be carefull. ...Gary Barker
>hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
> > Hi Group;
> > René Kroeger called me from the road and says he has a pair of Bat Wing
> > Aircleaners for sale. Suitable for '55 & '56's. He wants $1000.00 firm
> > You can reach him on his cell phone @ 1-515-314-1942 for more info about
> > condition and suchlike.
> > Ray Jones
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 15
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 21:04:40 -0600
> From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: wanted chrysler 300 posters!
>
> I wonder if the Chrysler 300 poster that showed all of the years of 300
>letter cars from 55 to 65 is still available. I have a friend looking for
>one. I believe that they were available from the other Chrysler 300 club out
>of Portland. Can someone help me out with this.
> Best regards from Fern in getting colder Cranbrook BC
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 16
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 18:46:10 -0400
> From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: brake conversions problem
>
>Hi to all,
> Jeff e-mailed me this, it should have gone to the group instead. It
>really pertains to disc conversions on 300J's and ram 300K's, and I am not
>at all familiar with the remote booster system . Anyone having any
>suggestions as to how to eliminate Jeff's problem, please e-mail him back
>directly at mr-320@xxxxxxxxx or send back thru listserver. . Thanks.
>John
>======================================================
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "jeff shenk" <mr-320@xxxxxxxxx>
>
> > john;
> > there is one thing on the 63-4 disc conversion that you havent
> > touched on andits a biggie, its the problem of the remote booster
> > [hydravac] sucking air at zero backpressure.
> > when i converted my k to discs, i took the residual pressure
> > valve out of the m/c and tossed it, as discs require zero backpressure
> > to keep from having a very heavy drag. since this was, by a long shot,
> > not the first disc conversion ive done, i elt quite confident, not
> > realizing that it WAS the first one with a hydravac, i never gave it any
> > thought at all. i did have a bit of difficulty in the initial bleeding,
> > getting all he air out was tough, couldnt figure where it all was coming
> > from, but finally got it done and went to take it on a test ride. the
> > test ride was exciting to say the least. the first 3 times i pushed the
> > pedal it was fine, then it had 1/4 free pedal, then 1/2 pedal, then it
> > just barely was there and i turned around to come back and it had zero
> > pedal, no brakes at all. did manage to get back safely, it was fun, and
> > a careful post mortem showed that the h/vac was sucking air at zero
> > backpressure and gradually filling the line with air. i got a kit and
> > rebuilt the h/vac and no joy, it still did it, seems to be a built in
> > problem, the h/vac needed backpressure to keep the seal, just like the
> > w/cyl cups that the residual pressure system is designed to keep sealed.
> > i never got the problem really fixed, the drag didnt seem to
> > affect mileage and it didnt bother me at all, except to be sure to run
> > lifetime warranty pads for cheaper replacement costs as i was only
> > getting 4000 mi/set of pads due to drag wear. when i parked the k in 93
> > or 4 it was one of the things that needed to be fixed before it hit the
> > street again.
> > it hasnt hit the street and hasnt been fixed, any suggestions
> > would be very much appreciated as im about ready to finally build an eng
> > for it and put it back on the street.
> >
> > JEFF
> > tucson az.
> >
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 17
> Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 22:01:36 +1300
> From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Springs
>
>Hi all
>Can anyone tell me if there is any specs or measurements you can check on
>rear springs when off the vehicle to determine whether the vehicle will sit
>at the correct height? My '57 workshop manual only mentions checking for a
>difference between each spring to prevent sitting uneven. I have noticed
>that many of the cars I have seen with retensioned springs seem to sit too
>high.
>Thanks for any help
>Owen
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 17:26:58 -0400
From: "Don Warnaar" <300country@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: re article in Automobile Quarterly
Hi Fern,
Automobile Quarterly recently changed hands. The new contact information is
as follows:
Automobile Heritage Publishing and Communications, LLC
Editorial and publication offices: 115 East Spring Street
Suite #102, New Albany, Indiana, USA 47150
Telephone: 812-948-AUTO
Fax: 812-948-2816
Website: www.autoquarterly.com
Subscriptions, back issues, etc. - 1-800-523-0236
The address for the publication itself is:
AQ/Automobile Quarterly
P.O. Box 3058
Langhorn, PA 19047
Hope this is of help to you. I do know that the 300 poster has been out of
print for some time.
Don Warnaar
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 17:45:12 -0500
From: Lindsey Fuller <lfuller@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Fwd: [Fwd: Chickencoop Cars]]
a few 300's & other chryslers in here. might be of interest to members
in the area
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 19:27:21 EDT
From: BKWare@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: brake drums &N2
Be careful with the liquid nitrogen. Some metals can experience structural
changes such as embrittlement or stress fractures from the use of liquid
nitrogen. Low carbon steel can even be damaged by dry ice. I have
succesfully used Dry ice for things like cylinder sleeves and bearing cups.
Haven't heard of anyone sleeving brake drums for years and that was only on
trucks and buses to get a different material for the lining to work in stop
and go traffic. I suppose it becomes cost effective if no drums are
available.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 18:16:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 68 300 vert sun visors?
Looking for soursce for new ones.
Any ideas?
=====
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 20:37:33 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: C Leaf Spring Free Height
No!
The leaf springs of a 300C are NOT THE SAME LENGTH as those of a 300D.
Offhand, I can not remember which way it went but there is a few inches
difference between the C and the D. Don't ask me why the engineering change
but it is there.
I had a broken spring on a C several years ago and a D parts car. Could not
believe the struggle I was having putting that D spring into the C until I
laid the two down together and found the D was a different length. End of
swap. Had a spring shop repair my C originals.
My expectation would be that the D and E leaf spring lengths are the same,
but the C is unique.
Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Nelson [mailto:Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 22:44:11 -0400
From: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: C Leaf Spring Free Height
Hi Wayne -
Not only are they different between 57 and 58, but there are many 'befores'
and 'afters' listed in the parts book just for 57. Seems like they just
couldn't get it right !
Ron
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 19:45:57 -0700
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Bat wing Aircleaners
Believe me it was him, I won't forget anybody that takes me for $ 400. and
if anybody doubts me I still have the carbs. They were supposed to be from
a 1956 Chrysler 300B. He was gone allot at that time, Ask him if he
remembers Steve Mulherron in Meadow Vista, Ca.. . He is my best friend
and I was instrumental in getting him hooked up with Renee from a add he
ran. We were building a Hemi engine together. I had to go in the hospital
so I asked him to complete the transaction for me. We tried for months to
get him to settle to no avail. ....Gary Barker
hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Hi Gary;
> I'm replying to you only, eventho you sent out your message to me and
> the list.
> I talked to Rene´ a few minutes ago, and he dosen't remember the carbs
> or you. He said he hasn't had any of those carbs for 5-6 years, but you
> said it was a couple of years ago.
> Is there any posability it was someone else?
> I know Rene´ very well, and this dosen't sound like him at all. He would
> have given a exact discription of the carbs, and sold them "as is", but
> would never have ignored you. 2-6 years ago he was harder to find, as he
> was always on the road hauling cars ands didn't have a cell phone. His
> messages were forwarded to him by his son and his mail waited at home
> til he got back every few weeks or so.
> So, please check and make sure it's Rene´ we're talking about as I've
> never heard another complaint.
> 300 l'y, Ray Jones
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 23:09:21 EDT
From: jlsavard@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: C Leaf Spring Free Height
In a message dated 10/14/01 9:36:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> cannot remember which way it went but there is a few inches
> difference between the C and the D. Don't ask me why the engineering
change
> but it is there.
Wayne and All,
According to the scuttlebutt at Chrysler Engineering at the time, whoever
designed the rear springs for the 1957 Chrysler products used the unladen
weight instead of the laden weight to calculate the specs for the springs.
There were a lot of people changing rear springs because of it.
I laid out in a snowbank to swap springs from a '57 and a '58, because the
difference was so noticeable. (I was lots younger at the time!)
Joe Savard
Lake Orion, MI
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 20:43:47 -0700
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Springs
Hi Owen, I just had the springs re-arched on my 63 Dodge. The company that did the work had be measure from the top of the axle to the frame, Then jack the body up from the rear until the car was at the height I liked and re-measure it. It came out to 3 3/4". Then when I removed the springs they put a straight edge across the spring ends from end to end. measured and then
re-arched 4". They came out perfect. I read up on how Chrysler wants there springs. They want them almost flat with a average load. They say if you get your arch to high it raises the center of gravity to high and the body will lean to much. They recommend a stiffer spring than to high of arch...Gary Barker
Owen & Jo Grigg wrote:
> Hi all
> Can anyone tell me if there is any specs or measurements you can check on rear springs when off the vehicle to determine whether the vehicle will sit at the correct height? My '57 workshop manual only mentions checking for a difference between each spring to prevent sitting uneven. I have noticed that many of the cars I have seen with retensioned springs seem to sit too high.
> Thanks for any help
> Owen
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 23:56:29 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Springs - more
Hi, all
I don't know if this will help anyone.. when I order springs from Detroit -
Eaton thru George Riehl,
I always ask George to order me a set of springs with a higher spring rate
than original. One step heavier-duty than stock. This has worked out very
nicely for me with the last two sets, one on a 300F and one on a 300G.
The difference in ride is not noticeable to me. It allows me to carry a
little more "junk" in the trunk. I feel the car is maybe a little stiffer,
but not alarmingly or objectionably so. I feel the cars corner better,
handle better, and perhaps these springs won't "sag" as quick either over a
few years.
On my 300L, George ordered me some extra-extra-extra-extra heavy duty
springs, since I planned on using the car for pulling a car trailer. Which
it has done very happily for the past 3 years and 30,000 miles. I wanted to
be able to place quite a bit of tongue weight on the trailer and not have
the rear bumper scrape the ground. That worked out better than I expected.
And, the ride is very pleasant, loaded or unloaded. !
On all these cars, the ride height is perfect.
John
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