To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 17 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. this may cause some yelling and screaming
From: " Jim McMullan" <macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. RE: this may cause some yelling and screaming
From: "Jim Pristelski" <ajp002@xxxxxxx>
3. more
From: " Jim McMullan" <macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: this may cause some yelling and screaming
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Body mounts for 56
From: "Blackbird" <hemichrysler@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Update on the engine/compression dilemma
From: Jonathan Sacks <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Seeking Vendor John McMahon in CA
From: "John and Donna" <drjjkoot@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Update on the engine/compression dilemma
From: Bruce Paul <b_paul_ncp@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: this may cause some yelling and screaming
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. (no subject)
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
11. Re: Body mounts for 56
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. registry update
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Notice of Untimely Demise
From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx
14. more
From: " Jim McMullan" <macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: this may cause some yelling and screaming
From: joeypilot@xxxxxxx
16. Re: Seeking Vendor John McMahon in CA
From: "Terry & Andree Hoeman" <tehoema@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. fs 300F ht
From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 9:34:12 -0800
From: " Jim McMullan" <macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: this may cause some yelling and screaming
HI club. I was taught that when you first fired up a fresh engine you had
to hold the throttle wide open for the first 30 seconds or so.This was done to
get oil to the cam.Failure to do so could wipe the lobes (one or more ) off the
cam.But I go back to flat head Fords and before Parkising! Its hard to make
yourself do it but I've never had a failure on start up.I also rub
Molybdenum Disulfide on the cam when I install it.I think it helps but have no
proof. Jim
---
--- macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 11:49:59 -0600
From: "Jim Pristelski" <ajp002@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: this may cause some yelling and screaming
Hi all,
I was taught that you leave the spark plugs out (so that the engine turns
over easily), and turn over the engine until you see the oil pressure rise
on the dash guage. Then you know that the oil passages are filled with oil
and that the oil pump is working properly. Replace the spark plugs and
start the engine -- slowly please!! Best regards, Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim McMullan [mailto:macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 11:34 AM
To: Chrysler300
Subject: [Chrysler300] this may cause some yelling and screaming
HI club. I was taught that when you first fired up a fresh engine you had
to hold the throttle wide open for the first 30 seconds or so.This was done
to
get oil to the cam.Failure to do so could wipe the lobes (one or more ) off
the
cam.But I go back to flat head Fords and before Parkising! Its hard to make
yourself do it but I've never had a failure on start up.I also rub
Molybdenum Disulfide on the cam when I install it.I think it helps but have
no
proof. Jim
---
--- macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 10:47:8 -0800
From: " Jim McMullan" <macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: more
Oil pressure for the cam bearings and the mains can be brought up before
start up several ways.This will not lube the cam lobes as they have to be lube d
from the big end of the rod and it has to be turning fast to accomplish this.In
less you build really fast pre lube of the cam will drain off before you get to
fire.The reason for the message was the discussion about wiping out a cam on
start up and having low compression on two cylinders. Jim
---
--- macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 13:45:46 EST
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: this may cause some yelling and screaming
That's the way we did it on my H when we redid the engine.
Mike Meyer
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 19:40:14 -0000
From: "Blackbird" <hemichrysler@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Body mounts for 56
I may have misunderstood the question, and maybe the design is very
different for 1956, but this is what I did, 3 years ago, for my 1950 New
Yorker (99000 mile 2 dr htp). The old rubber was cracked, worn and the
centre holes had been enlarged by sidewise pressure from the mounting bolts
as the body moved relative to the frame over 48 years of driving.
I went to a rubber specialist. They had hundreds of different dies for
cutting rubber, including many circles of differing diameters, and, of
course, sheets and sheets of rubber of various thicknesses. Taking my old
and cracked rubber with me, I chose an appropriate die and some thick,
dense, heavy duty rubber. Actually, it may not have even been 'rubber' -
could have been some other compound.
At home, I drilled holes through them and fitted new zinc plated bolts,
washers and nuts. With the mounting bolts went through the outriggers and
into the car body, I fitted new rubber to both ends of the bolts.
Richard.
*****************
Having some work done on my 56B and found that the rear body mounts are
almost completely rusted up. I'm assuming that you don't get parts for
these, just make something that will work? I know it won't be original, but
seems like the odds of finding "good" ones would be pretty slim. True or
not?
Mine in an Ohio car with 120,000 miles on it, so I don't think being
original is vital at this point. Just trying to keep it on the road, but if
good mounts are out there, or there are other ideas I'd love to hear about
them.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 12:36:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Sacks <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Update on the engine/compression dilemma
Hi all,
Before I say anything I want to say thanks to the club
and its members for the overwhelming response I
received from the posting of my question regarding the
loss of compression in two of the cylinders of my 413.
I guess I shouldn't be surprised now, but it still
amazes me, the amount of knowledge and generosity that
can be found on this email network. Thanks again, I
couldn't imagine doing it without your help.
Now to the problem...after hearing the responses of
some of the members who suggested I need to work
through the problem methodically, I decided to have
the engine compression retested manually as a back-up
to the computer readings that read low compression in
two cylinders.
After pulling each plug individually and testing each
cylinder with the other seven plugs in, it was
determined that compression was between 100 and 115 in
each cylinder! Has anyone else experienced such a
discrepancy between the computer and gauge readings?
So now, what I'm left with is a relatively smooth ride
when it starts up which degenerates into a hard miss,
with accompanying vacume loss on the hard miss, as the
engine begins to heat.
Now the carburator doesn't sound so far fetched to me.
But the very reputable gentleman who rebuilt the carb
says that's definitely not the problem. And frankly,
the carb wasn't in bad shape before it was rebuilt.
Both the engine and the carb shops I know to be
well-repected businesses. I'm now wondering if it
could have been something that was done/or not done
during the installation process. I missed the
discussion about lubing the cam lobes and getting the
oil pressure for the cam bearings and mains brought up
before start. The install was done without me, so
maybe it could have been one of those things. But then
again, the compression would be off then, wouldn't it?
Any ideas, assuming the compression is okay but she's
still hard missing, with accompanying vacume loss?
As always, thanks for the advice.
300ly,
Jonathan
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 15:02:38 -0600
From: "John and Donna" <drjjkoot@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Seeking Vendor John McMahon in CA
Hi. I'd like to contact a MOPAR parts vendor named John McMahon. He used to live in Temple City, CA. Haven't seen any of his ads lately. If anyone knows John's phone number or e-mail address, please let me know. Thanks, John Koutre, Plover,WI
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 13:36:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Bruce Paul <b_paul_ncp@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Update on the engine/compression dilemma
I have some doubts about the carbs causing "hard"
engine missing. How about pulling off each spark plug
wire when the engine is missing and find out which
cylinder(s) aren't doing their jobs? You only take off
one wire at a time and then put it back on. Only the
cylinders that are working properly will cause
significant changes when their spark is interrupted.
Bruce Paul-Cherry Hill, NJ
--- Jonathan Sacks <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Before I say anything I want to say thanks to the
> club
> and its members for the overwhelming response I
> received from the posting of my question regarding
> the
> loss of compression in two of the cylinders of my
> 413.
> I guess I shouldn't be surprised now, but it still
> amazes me, the amount of knowledge and generosity
> that
> can be found on this email network. Thanks again, I
> couldn't imagine doing it without your help.
>
> Now to the problem...after hearing the responses of
> some of the members who suggested I need to work
> through the problem methodically, I decided to have
> the engine compression retested manually as a
> back-up
> to the computer readings that read low compression
> in
> two cylinders.
>
> After pulling each plug individually and testing
> each
> cylinder with the other seven plugs in, it was
> determined that compression was between 100 and 115
> in
> each cylinder! Has anyone else experienced such a
> discrepancy between the computer and gauge readings?
>
> So now, what I'm left with is a relatively smooth
> ride
> when it starts up which degenerates into a hard
> miss,
> with accompanying vacume loss on the hard miss, as
> the
> engine begins to heat.
>
> Now the carburator doesn't sound so far fetched to
> me.
> But the very reputable gentleman who rebuilt the
> carb
> says that's definitely not the problem. And frankly,
> the carb wasn't in bad shape before it was rebuilt.
>
> Both the engine and the carb shops I know to be
> well-repected businesses. I'm now wondering if it
> could have been something that was done/or not done
> during the installation process. I missed the
> discussion about lubing the cam lobes and getting
> the
> oil pressure for the cam bearings and mains brought
> up
> before start. The install was done without me, so
> maybe it could have been one of those things. But
> then
> again, the compression would be off then, wouldn't
> it?
>
> Any ideas, assuming the compression is okay but
> she's
> still hard missing, with accompanying vacume loss?
>
> As always, thanks for the advice.
>
> 300ly,
> Jonathan
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting,
> just $8.95/month.
> http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 14:29:21 -0800
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: this may cause some yelling and screaming
Hi Jim, All you need to do is keep the engine around 1500 to 1800 not wide open. Gary
Barker
Jim McMullan wrote:
> HI club. I was taught that when you first fired up a fresh engine you had
> to hold the throttle wide open for the first 30 seconds or so.This was done to
> get oil to the cam.Failure to do so could wipe the lobes (one or more ) off the
> cam.But I go back to flat head Fords and before Parkising! Its hard to make
> yourself do it but I've never had a failure on start up.I also rub
> Molybdenum Disulfide on the cam when I install it.I think it helps but have no
> proof. Jim
>
>
>
> ---
>
> --- macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> --- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 17:39:42 EST
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
Subject: (no subject)
What is the correct high idle speed for a cold engine?
Mike Meyer
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 14:52:49 -0800
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Body mounts for 56
There are two companys that I know of who carry Chrysler body mount rubber.
Steel Rubber Products 800-544-8665, steelerubber.com and Pat Walsh Restoration
Supplies ( Mail Order only) 1-617-246-3266 Wakefield, MA
Blackbird wrote:
> I may have misunderstood the question, and maybe the design is very
> different for 1956, but this is what I did, 3 years ago, for my 1950 New
> Yorker (99000 mile 2 dr htp). The old rubber was cracked, worn and the
> centre holes had been enlarged by sidewise pressure from the mounting bolts
> as the body moved relative to the frame over 48 years of driving.
>
> I went to a rubber specialist. They had hundreds of different dies for
> cutting rubber, including many circles of differing diameters, and, of
> course, sheets and sheets of rubber of various thicknesses. Taking my old
> and cracked rubber with me, I chose an appropriate die and some thick,
> dense, heavy duty rubber. Actually, it may not have even been 'rubber' -
> could have been some other compound.
>
> At home, I drilled holes through them and fitted new zinc plated bolts,
> washers and nuts. With the mounting bolts went through the outriggers and
> into the car body, I fitted new rubber to both ends of the bolts.
>
> Richard.
>
> *****************
> Having some work done on my 56B and found that the rear body mounts are
> almost completely rusted up. I'm assuming that you don't get parts for
> these, just make something that will work? I know it won't be original, but
> seems like the odds of finding "good" ones would be pretty slim. True or
> not?
>
> Mine in an Ohio car with 120,000 miles on it, so I don't think being
> original is vital at this point. Just trying to keep it on the road, but if
> good mounts are out there, or there are other ideas I'd love to hear about
> them.
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 19:02:51 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: registry update
Hi to all,
The registry has been updated on our Web site. Many thanks to Eleanor
Riehl's diligent efforts at keeping it correct, and up to date. You have no
idea how much work it is to keep track of surviving and junked cars !
Thanks in some part to contributions from our membership, and also to the
Internet, we have been able to account for 38 more Letter Cars and one more
300 Hurst in the past 6 months alone.
It's thanks to the registry that we can sometimes inform new 300 buyers of
their car's whereabouts many years ago. I am sure you all can relate to how
important this information can be to some of us, tracking down previous
owners and trying to find out more about one's car through the years...
So, please, if you stumble across any 300 Letter Series or Hurst car, be it
on a used car lot, in a local paper ad, junkyard, word of mouth, whatever,
GET THE VIN number and pass it on to me or one of us...
You can view the updated registry at:
http://www.chrysler300club.com/registry/registry1.html
Sincerely, and happy Thanksgiving to all.
John
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 19:22:59 EST
From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx
Subject: Notice of Untimely Demise
Sad to report death of G #159587. Next of kin......member Moseley Collins.
A serious garage fire destroyed his newly acquired and beloved G coupe
recently. The fire was so intense that it buckled the roof and melted
everything in the interior. The insurance company will surely total the car
because it just couldn't be made right again. It was a white with factory
red interior but Moseley suspects the engine and drive train might be near
ok. If you have need of the drive train, perhaps a letter to Moseley might
be inorder before the insurance takes the hulk away. He is in the roster.
He is a very busy attorney so please write rather than call him.
Larry Jett
950 Woodside Road Suite 4
Redwood City, CA 94061
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 16:36:33 -0800
From: " Jim McMullan" <macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: more
Yes I agree, guess I'm Getting Old. 2 to 3ooo RPM Will get the oil to the
cam lobes( my bad ).And to Jonathan Sacks.You are apparently using some sort of
engine Analyzer.When the spark jumps the gap it bleeds off from a peek
to zero .There is A spike in this curve when combustion takes place ( known as
the combustion hook ) Compression can be estimated from where this event
occurs .What the Analyzer is telling you is that the spark is
occurring at the wrong time ( I think) So you eater have some wires crossed or
You are getting cross fire between two high tension leads.And did you hear
about the railroad inspector that was ringing wheels whit a hammer.Seames he
replaced 2 hundred wheels before he discovered his hammer was cracked.Good
Luck Jim
---
--- macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 19:42:31 EST
From: joeypilot@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: this may cause some yelling and screaming
Well, I have never heard of that; and I have been a certified mechanic for 18
years. I know that you should run the engine between 2000 and 2500 for about
20 mins or so varying the rpm a little as you go. I don't think that starting
a brand new engine WOT is a very good idea. The most important thing to
remember is to not allow the engine to idle. You can start/stop if you like;
but no extended idling.
Joe
61-G
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 16:04:23 -0600
From: "Terry & Andree Hoeman" <tehoema@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Seeking Vendor John McMahon in CA
McMahon, John
E-mail Address(es):
jmcmah@xxxxxxxxx
----- Original Message -----
From: "John and Donna" <drjjkoot@xxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 3:02 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Seeking Vendor John McMahon in CA
> Hi. I'd like to contact a MOPAR parts vendor named John McMahon. He used
to live in Temple City, CA. Haven't seen any of his ads lately. If anyone
knows John's phone number or e-mail address, please let me know. Thanks,
John Koutre, Plover,WI
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 22:01:29 -0700
From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: fs 300F ht
Is anyone looking for a 300F ht to restore? I have two of them with one red
car and the other white and both have full load such as power seats and A/C.
Please contact me directly at following address crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I can also supply digital photos on either car. Best regards from Fern
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
Archive Sitemap