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There are 9 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: '57 torqueflight - needed
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: '55 question
From: kroozeroc@xxxxxx
3. Hydraulic brakes
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. VIN Nameplate
From: Paul Thomassen <thomassenp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: VIN Nameplate
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: VIN Nameplate
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
7. Re: VIN Nameplate
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: VIN Nameplate
From: "ryan hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. VIN's an Body Plates
From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 22:54:52 -0600
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: '57 torqueflight - needed
Hi Michael; You might want to check with George Riehl, this is what he
does.
Ray Jones
> From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 15:55:11 -0500
> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [Chrysler300] '57 torqueflight - needed
>
> Hi & happy Monday. Yet more beggar's mail.
>
> I'm hoping to find a good used or rebuilt '57 or '58 cast iron t-flight
> automatic transmission for my '57.
>
> My local rebuild shops don't sound real confident that their 16-year-old
> employees could do a good job rebuilding a core...so I'm hoping to find
one
> ready to go. I've had no luck sourcing locally, so the search expands!
>
> Philippe Courant is probably out of the question; but I guess shipping
cost
> will be of issue from distant states too...
> What's the easiest/best way? U-haul or Yellow Freight or ?
>
> Thanks & have a great week.
> Mike V
> (Marietta, GA)
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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>
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>
>
>
>
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 07:15:39 EST
From: kroozeroc@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: '55 question
I USE BOSCH PLATINUMS IN MY '56 IMPERIAL & '60 300F. YOU CAN ACCESS THE
BOSCH
WEBSITE @ WWW.BOSCHUSA.COM. THEY'LL ALSO GIVE YOU GAP INFO. STEVE
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 08:32:58 -0700
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Hydraulic brakes
>or bend your own lines and use an
>after-market porportioning valve on the line that goes to the rear.
>
>Jack
And not to forget that brake lines require double flaring if cut. Some
systems in some special places will require flare nuts that are one hex
and
thread size up from that required for a given tube size to keep lines from
getting switched. These special nuts are (for one source) shown in NAPA
catalogs (United brake and in Weatherhead fittings) which could help make
the system more presentable bypassing the use of up/down adaptor
combinations.
Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 12:52:07 -0600
From: Paul Thomassen <thomassenp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: VIN Nameplate
Is there new original rivets available to reinstall a VIN nameplate, that
I
want to take off to paint the body of a 66 300? Any suggestions or
alternatives?
Thanks
Paul Thomassen
thomassenp@xxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 17:40:33 -0800
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: VIN Nameplate
It's best to never disturb those rivets, the DMV guys get real testy about
things like that.New rivets are not supposed to be available to the public
because car thieves will using them to re-number stolen cars.If you remove
those and replace them you may have trouble selling the car later.I once
sold a '71 Roadrunner that I had replaced the dash in(added a/c, used pop
rivets on the number plate), the dmv would not give the new owner a title
until I drove 150 miles to fill out all kinds of forms first. They gave
him
an assigned serial number for the car which, I'm sure, hurt the value of
it.
I'm sure someone will get on the list later, with a source for the rivets,
but I'm not so sure it's legal to buy them in some states.
Mike
At 12:52 PM 3/12/02 -0600, Paul Thomassen wrote:
>Is there new original rivets available to reinstall a VIN nameplate, that
I
>want to take off to paint the body of a 66 300? Any suggestions or
>alternatives?
>
>Thanks
>
>Paul Thomassen
>thomassenp@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 21:01:39 EST
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: VIN Nameplate
Are the VIN tags spot welded to the car? My H does not have any rivets.
Mike Meyer
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:06:54 -0500
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: VIN Nameplate
Up through at least 64 the vin tag was spot welded as Mike noted. It's not
that good of a weld as they appear to be welded at the edge of two holes
in
the plate and body. I've seen a few fall off because of rust. As far as
removing the tag goes, I would leave it on and paint around it.
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: <MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx>
To: <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; <thomassenp@xxxxxxxxxxx>;
<chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] VIN Nameplate
> Are the VIN tags spot welded to the car? My H does not have any rivets.
>
> Mike Meyer
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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>
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>
>
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 20:24:53 -0800
From: "ryan hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: VIN Nameplate
Just thought I'd jump in and add my two cents worth (I'm Canadian...I
guess
it's only worth about 1.2 cents). I'm currently restoring a '65 300 and
have
made the decision to keep my tag in place because it's spot welded on as
well, even though there are holes drilled like it was intended to be
riveted? Looks really factory to me so I'm not fooling with it.
However, I just crawled into my 300 where my dash should be and found that
there is fairly good access to the holes behind the door jamb. When I did
my
'67 Coronet R/T a few years ago I was able to gently flatten out the flare
of the rivet from behind enough to remove the tag with the rivets
intact.(There was no shank present inside the rivet) Once the car was
painted, I pressed it back in place and placed a bead of epoxy around the
formerly flared portion of the rivet to hold it in place. (You could hold
it
there many different ways) The final outcome was an original tag with
original rivets placed on a fresh Plum Crazy paint job. It worked well for
me but maybe a little masking might be the ticket for you?
Good Luck, Ryan.
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 00:42:43 -0500
From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: VIN's an Body Plates
Having been in the old car businees for close to 2 decades now, I can at
least recommend the following....
If at all possible, never screw with VIN plates - or even body plates
(much
more common). No matter how exacting you are with your paint jobs !
Selling a clone car with a shifty body plate might be overlooked by most
law
enforcement agencies - but a VIN with shifty looking rivets will get you
into far more trouble than it is worth. There are many old car nuts in
the
police department ! Believe it ! And with the internet thankfully
providing them with all the information they need......well, I guess you
get my point.
Although I do not speak from experience, I have been approached by
countless
folks who quite obviously have bought a "hot" car and ask me the very same
questions (although they usually want to know where to find new door and
ignition tumblers at the same time...) !
I am not accusing you - a fellow club member - of the same. I'm only
warning you to be VERY CAREFUL if you want to pursue this detail in your
restoration. Have you considered having a member of the law enforcement
community inspect and photograph your car before you make such changes ???
Sean.
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