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There are 13 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Motor
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
2. Fw: More on Headlight Bulbs
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. vehicle transport
From: George McKovich <george@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. vinyl top paint
From: "gary luedtke" <poppers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: vehicle transport
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: vinyl top paint
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: vehicle transport
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
8. Correct 57-60 14" 300 wheels
From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Motor
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. e-mail change
From: JamesPFaber@xxxxxxx
11. Harmonic Balancer Rebuild?
From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. '65 727 trans.
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: vinyl top paint
From: "The Valentines" <300g@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 08:47:13 -0400
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Motor
Gary, Ryan, and group,
If you are going to go bigger than .060 the block should be sonic tested.
This will show how much meat there is in the bore and identify and core
shift. You would probably need custom pistons, as most manufacturers stop at
.060. The block can also be sleeved back to standard size. If a shop tells
you they don't charge for using a torque plate, they are getting the money
elsewhere by charging more. There are 17 head bolts on a big block Chrysler.
Torqueing these in increments up to specs is time consuming, and would be
throwing money away for the shop doing the job. Like Gary and my machinist
said, it's really not necessary for a street rebuild. Something else that
hasn't been mentioned is that by boring out the block, you also raise
compression.
These engines of ours are now mostly over 40 years old. You can't just
slap rings and bearings into in and be done. For a proper rebuild you need
to start from the bottom literally and make sure the block is right. The
first step is align boring the block. This makes sure all the crank bores
are in line and round. Next would be to deck it, which is cutting the tops
of the block square with the crank centerline, after which it would be
bored. The rods also need to be checked and reconditioned, the crank ground,
and the rotating assembly balanced. The heads will need hardened seats, and
most likely new valves, springs, and guides (or liners). Shops with modern
equipment use a carbide cutter that cuts all the seat angles at once, and
can hold depth measurements to less that .0005 inch. Rebuilding an engine
properly is not cheap. Expect to spend $4000 or more, if they assemble it
for you. A little less if you do some work yourself. It's also difficult to
find a good machine shop. Look for someone who does it for a living, not
someone who will do it when "things get slow". If they are reputable they
will show you around the shop and explain the different steps in rebuilding
your engine. The shop I use does everything in house except for crank
grinding. The cost of the machine is so expensive that it would have to be
running all the time to pay for itself. I'm sure there are those who have
re-ringed there engine and say it runs fine, but how long is it going to
last? A professionally rebuilt engine will actually be better than when it
was new, as the block has been "seasoned" and will stay in tolerance after
it has been machined. It will also increase the value of your car.
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Hill <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>; <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>;
<Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 10:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Motor
> Just for clarification Gary, most wouldn't bore a street engine any more
> than it had to be bored but I've been told a 383 can be bored up to 90
thou
> and a 440 to as much as 80 by a very reputable builder in my area.(I've
> never taken one more than .060 myself) Obviously availablity of piston in
> that diameter is an important issue to consider but knowing how much
> material is actually there gives an idea of how safe it really is taking a
B
> or RB block to that oversize. Many people tend to think .060 is leaving
very
> little 'meat' there.
>
> As for the torque plate, I've never been charged extra to have one used
and
> if your builder has one for your engine you are better to use it than not.
> Its purpose is simply to preload the block to simulate the installation of
> the heads while the machining is being performed so that when you bolt
your
> heads on there is no distortion in the cylinder walls. This seems like a
> positive procedure to me so long as there is no real additional cost.
Maybe
> it wasn't worth mentioning but I usually like to cover these details when
> people ask and let them decide.
>
> On another subject, has anyone been in contact with Gary Goers lately? He
> shorted me my interior carpet on my 'big' order and he hasn't been
> responding to my emails for the past four weeks. It's unlike him.....is he
> alright? I don't want to bug him by calling him but I guess I might have
to.
>
> Ryan
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 08:52:14 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: More on Headlight Bulbs
Larry Stanley raises a relevant question regarding service parts
below. Read his post to me at the bottom and my response above it.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Larry Stanley" <peerless@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: More on Headlight Bulbs
Yes, in the replacement assemblies, bulbs were sometimes mixed.
Always have to remember that "service parts" for use in the service
departments or body shops were not the same level of quality as
what was installed on the assembly line.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Stanley" <peerless@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: More on Headlight Bulbs
SNIP:
> Either brand of bulb is acceptable to your 300C restoration; so
long
> as the complete set is of the same brand.
I have found NOS headlight assys. with a GE #2 bulb and a Tung Sol
#1 together.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 10:17:13 -0600
From: George McKovich <george@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: vehicle transport
I know there was some recent discussion regarding car transportation, but I can't seem to find it in my files. I normally use TransCar out of Texas and they have been great. Now I need to ship a vehicle to Indiana from Idaho and TransCar can't get me an enclosed vehicle for the move. Any good suggestion will be appreciated.
Thanks
george
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 12:32:56 -0400
From: "gary luedtke" <poppers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: vinyl top paint
gang,
my black vinyl top is really more of a rubber than vinyl.
the car's been stored outside, but under a "fabric" carcover.
now that it's summer and i'll be using it and not covering it,
the "vinyl's" finish has become uneven and (white)-spotted
from contact with the sometimes-wet cover fabric.
there used to be a paint called Tire Black, which i think would be perfect
for bringing this rubber vinyl top back to black and even,
but i cannot find the small can i used to have of it.
i could not find it at Auto Zone, nor on an internet Google search.
with all the products now available for tire "wetting",
i would think there'd be something out there to blacken tires,
since some tires still become brown-looking, and this would be perfect for
that too.
does anyone know if Tire Black paint is still made, or if you know of
another method?
a small can of black Rustoleum tempts me, but listing applications for
metal, wood,
and masonry, it just might deteriorate rubbber.
gary luedtke
'63
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 12:43:19 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: vehicle transport
Hi;
If it can be shipped on an open trailer, call Rene Kroeger:
cell phone_ 515-314-1942. I've used him for 5 cars and he's done a great
job. He regularly goes back and forth to CA, more than monthly, and could
move your car on the way back from one of his many trips.
Ray Jones....Don't forget the Nashville Meet, Sept. 11-14, 2002
> From: George McKovich <george@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 10:17:13 -0600
> To: 'Chrysler 300 Broadcast' <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] vehicle transport
>
> I know there was some recent discussion regarding car transportation, but I
> can't seem to find it in my files. I normally use TransCar out of Texas and
> they have been great. Now I need to ship a vehicle to Indiana from Idaho and
> TransCar can't get me an enclosed vehicle for the move. Any good suggestion
> will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> george
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 12:02:13 -0700
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: vinyl top paint
I recall using a product I thought to be called 'Tire Black'about ten or
twelve years ago. The product I recalled was in a tin like a wax can and
came with an applicator. Seemed more like shoe polish to me than paint. (I
used to mix it with Armor All and apply it to my tires with a paint
brush......It worked very very well and lasted for weeks!!)
I have been unsuccessful in locating any of it for several years now but I
would suggest using a black shoe polish or dye after applying a good vinyl
cleaner and scrubbing the surface clean. You should be able to polish the
top with the shoe polish and acheive some good results. If anyone knows of a
black paste product for vinyl tops I'd also like to know where to get some.
Ryan.
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 16:45:41 EDT
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: vehicle transport
I've used Auto Transport Systems twice with no problems. They're listed in
Hemmings. Ask for Linda.
Mike Meyer
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 14:24:32 -0500
From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Correct 57-60 14" 300 wheels
Hi Gang,
Been trying to round up wheels to pant for the C and D and for the new tires when they are ready. Going to be the middle of June Coker told me last week. I have several 14 x 6.5 wheels but am still short a couple.
Would appreciate some info as to the differences between the years 57, 58, 59 and 60. So far I have 2 styles. They both appear the same except for "nubbins" on some for it looks like baby moon caps. Which wheels are for which years?
Dave Schwandt
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 16:11:43 -0700
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Motor
Ryan
As I stated it was only my opinion. Dick Landy is a well known race engine
builder. I respected his opinion when they suggested torque plates are not
necessary for every day street motors.
I agree you can bore larger on certain engines. I would not do it without
sonic testing for wall thickness. These old motors it was not uncommon to
have casting core shift. That can lead to thinner walls to one side of each
bore.
Regarding the torque plates you stated you were never charged extra, but I
can assure you were charged. Torque plates are not cheap and then they have
to be installed, torqued and removed on each bank.
Each person should do what makes them all warm a fuzzy.
That's what is good about the List Serve. It gives the opportunity to voice
a different view point. We all come from different schools. Different
opinions allows others to compare, ask questions and come to their own
conclusions. I was certainly not trying to attack your opinion just voice
another.
Gary
At 07:36 PM 5/23/02, Ryan Hill wrote:
>Just for clarification Gary, most wouldn't bore a street engine any more
>than it had to be bored but I've been told a 383 can be bored up to 90
>thou and a 440 to as much as 80 by a very reputable builder in my
>area.(I've never taken one more than .060 myself) Obviously availablity of
>piston in that diameter is an important issue to consider but knowing how
>much material is actually there gives an idea of how safe it really is
>taking a B or RB block to that oversize. Many people tend to think .060 is
>leaving very little 'meat' there.
>
>As for the torque plate, I've never been charged extra to have one used
>and if your builder has one for your engine you are better to use it than
>not. Its purpose is simply to preload the block to simulate the
>installation of the heads while the machining is being performed so that
>when you bolt your heads on there is no distortion in the cylinder walls.
>This seems like a positive procedure to me so long as there is no real
>additional cost. Maybe it wasn't worth mentioning but I usually like to
>cover these details when people ask and let them decide.
>
>On another subject, has anyone been in contact with Gary Goers lately? He
>shorted me my interior carpet on my 'big' order and he hasn't been
>responding to my emails for the past four weeks. It's unlike him.....is he
>alright? I don't want to bug him by calling him but I guess I might have to.
>
>Ryan
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 21:02:11 EDT
From: JamesPFaber@xxxxxxx
Subject: e-mail change
Please change my e-mail address from jamespfaber@xxxxxxx to
fabe7445@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Thanks, Jim Faber
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 18:56:05 -0700
From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Harmonic Balancer Rebuild?
Anyone know who rebuilds the harmonic balancers and/or how much they
are?
Would like to have the one done from our '62 300, while the motor is
out.
Thanks,
Matt Allyn
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 23:55:25 -0700
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: '65 727 trans.
Hello again group,
Just got my 727 for my '65 back from the tranny shop today and I'm about to
detail it. Unfortunately the shop didn't realize I wanted the case to remain
bare and unpainted and shot the whole darn thing with black engine enamel.
That was a real bear to get off!! Anyway, looks like I'll be painting the
case again myself to hide the stains and make it look new. (This time with
an aluminum color)
What color if any was the trans pan originally painted? Were they just bare
steel? The only paint I could find on the trans upon it's removal were two
paint blotches on the top of the case. I assume the engines were painted
prior to being mated to the transmission so there shouldn't be any overspray
of engine color on the transmission, correct? Anyone know?
Thanks in advance, Ryan.
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 05:15:44 -0400
From: "The Valentines" <300g@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: vinyl top paint
I just checked Eastwood online and they have a vinyl paint for 7.99 +
shipping.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/cgi-bin/sgin0101.exe
I hope that this will help.
Charlie Valentine
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary luedtke" <poppers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 12:32 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] vinyl top paint
> gang,
>
> my black vinyl top is really more of a rubber than vinyl.
> the car's been stored outside, but under a "fabric" carcover.
> now that it's summer and i'll be using it and not covering it,
> the "vinyl's" finish has become uneven and (white)-spotted
> from contact with the sometimes-wet cover fabric.
>
> there used to be a paint called Tire Black, which i think would be perfect
> for bringing this rubber vinyl top back to black and even,
> but i cannot find the small can i used to have of it.
>
> i could not find it at Auto Zone, nor on an internet Google search.
> with all the products now available for tire "wetting",
> i would think there'd be something out there to blacken tires,
> since some tires still become brown-looking, and this would be perfect for
> that too.
>
> does anyone know if Tire Black paint is still made, or if you know of
> another method?
> a small can of black Rustoleum tempts me, but listing applications for
> metal, wood,
> and masonry, it just might deteriorate rubbber.
>
> gary luedtke
> '63
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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