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There are 4 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Electrical
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Electrical
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Electrical
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. nice 300H hardtop - wanted to buy
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 10:58:24 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Electrical
As uauall, Godo advise.
He said he didn't have an ohm meter, so I didn't dwell on those tests.
If you have more votage at the post then at the cable clamp (vise versa
for
ground cable), then there's a votage drop across the connection.
Ray
> From: Gary Nelson <gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 22:48:06 -0700
> To: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>, gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx,
> chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Electrical
>
> Matt
> A very simple battery test is to remove positive cable and put a full
> charge,( battery charger) then with your electrical tester read voltage.
A
> fully charged battery will read approximately 12.4 or more volts. Just
> dealt with a battery problem a few days ago and after 8 hour charge only
> had 11 volts. That meant on cell was dead as each cell has 1.5 volt
storage
> value.
> As far as ground or connection testing an inexpensive electric meter
with
> an ohm selector makes for quick tests without guessing and taking things
> apart. For example the battery problem I mentioned above the starter was
> dragging and not able to start the car. The first thing I wanted to know
if
> I had a connection or ground problem. With the two leads and the meter
set
> for ohms, touch the two ends to each other. That reading will be the
same
> if you have a good connection at the point you are testing. For example
I
> touched one lead from the meter to the each battery cable end and the
other
> in the center of battery post. for a ground test touch one lead to
center
> negative post and the other any where to bare metal on engine. This will
> confirm if you have a good ground through the engine, the negative
battery
> cable and to the battery post. With this method you can test all your
> connections in minutes.
> I hope I did not leave you confused. If you take a little time to learn
ohm
> testing you will find it to be an invaluable tool the rest of the days
you
> work on old cars.
>
> Gary, The Parts Doc
>
>
>
> At 11:59 AM 9/18/2002 -0500, Ray Jones wrote:
>> Matt, for a quick check, measure the voltage as it is with nothing on,
then
>> have someone crank it, and watch the voltage readings. What you're
doing is
>> load testing the battery. If the meter drops to very low voltage, you
have a
>> battery thats low, OR a huge draw. The starter is the bigggest draw in
the
>> car, but shouldn't kill the battery. But if dragging ar suchlike, it
will
>> demand more current than the battery or cables can deliver.
>> You can check voltage at the starter also before cranking and see what
the
>> voltage is and compare it to the battery reading. Now you've checked
the
>> cable resistance.
>> Check the readings @ the post and then the cable end on each end of the
>> cable. Now you've checked the connections.
>> Last but not least, check @ the ground end of the cable. A poor
connection
>> there (at the block) will stop it all.
>> Good luck, Ray Jones
>>
>>> From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>>> Reply-To: <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>>> Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 08:21:17 -0700
>>> To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>> Subject: [Chrysler300] Electrical
>>>
>>> '62 413 motor straining to start! Does anyone know how I should test
>>> for the weak battery sounds?
>>>
>>> I have a Sears meter that can check volts, dwell and RPM. Do I need a
>>> mutimeter to properly test the battery and alternator?
>>>
>>> What procedure do I use to test the battery and alternator?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Matt Allyn
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>>> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>
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>>>
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>>> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>
>> For list server instructions, go to
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>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>
>>
>>
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>
>
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 09:52:11 -0700
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Electrical
>If you have more votage at the post then at the cable clamp (vise versa
for
>ground cable), then there's a votage drop across the connection.
>Ray
- - - - - - which is the most reliable way to check for bad connections or
a
cable/wire in bad condition. An ohmmeter passes a very low level
voltage/current through a circuit and looks at the resultant voltage drop
which comes up as ohms resistance. Testing in this manner will not produce
meaningful results. The best way to evaluate a circuit is under load and
look at impressed voltage and voltage drop (and in the starter circuit
testing situation, the voltage drops across the individual items in the
circuit on the pos and neg sides of the battery). Incremental allowable
voltage drop is a case by case situation but the lower the better would be
a
good rule of thumb.
Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 17:31:09 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Electrical
Posting this message on behalf of Jim - please answer him directly if any
questions.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim McMullan" <macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> From: Jim
> McMullan
>
> To: Jennifer Allyn
>
> Sent: 9/18/2002 7:19:15 PM
>
> Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Electrical
>
>
>
>
> Save yourselves some time and money.Start with replacing the battery
cables
> whit the heaviest ones you can find.Or better yet make your own using
welding
> cable(yes the stuff they use on arc welders)I have sent this message so
many
> times I am thinking of going into manufacturing. Jim McMullan 300 F
>
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 22:14:55 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: nice 300H hardtop - wanted to buy
Hi to all,
I have spoken to this gentleman. He is seriously looking for a #1 or #2
condition, extremely nice, 300H hardtop, and is willing to pay for it.
He
is specifically looking for a WHITE hardtop with A/C . Anyone have such
a
vehicle for sale, or know of one, please contact him DIRECTLY.
jcg115@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Thanks
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph C. Gerardi" <jcg115@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 62 300H Chrysler
> Hello,
>
> I am looking to purchase a 62' Chrysler 300H hardtop in mint (1)
> condition.
>
> any possible leads would be greatly appreciated..
>
> Thank you,
>
> Joe Gerardi
>
>
>
>
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