To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 8 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: Solutions to the engine rebuild dilemma From: Marshall Larson <yelof@xxxxxxxx> 2. Re: C300 From: REckert300@xxxxxxx 3. '61-'62 Dash pad -'60 remote hood latch - sale From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx> 4. For Sale 300M From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx 5. 64 300 Eng. Cu.In. From: "rfx" <rfx@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> 6. Chrome piece for a 64 From: Deaugs1@xxxxxxx 7. 58 300 D generator question From: mjraguse@xxxxxxx 8. Wanted From: "Dou" <dou4@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 10:31:21 -0600 From: Marshall Larson <yelof@xxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Solutions to the engine rebuild dilemma Hi Jonathan. By not paying attention to the installed height of the valves, the valve train geometry has been changed. The rocker tip no longer pivots over the centerline of the valve stem. This will accelerate wear of the valve guide. Grinding the valve or the seat too much will change the volume of the combustion chamber because the valve now sits deeper in the head. Compression ratio is lowered. Because of the shortened pushrods, the valves aren't opening as far which affects cylinder filling. As RPM goes up there is less time to fill the cylinder, plus less compression; the engine runs increasingly rough and with less power/torque. The valves should have all been matched to the worst one or the bad ones replaced. The volume and compression in all chambers/cylinders need to be the same. Normally, a new cam is installed with new lifters unless the cam's profile is verified to be within specs. Hope this helps for the next time. DB Larson ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 11:53:27 EST From: REckert300@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: C300 A friend, who acquired a C300 last fall and is now working on it, asked me to relay the following questions to those of you in "300land" so he can complete some of the jobs he has begun. He is a new club member but has not yet added his name to the list serve. If you will send your responses to me directly, I will see that he receives all the info you share. Thanks. 1. What is the paint code number he needs to take to the paint shop for platinum? 2. Where can he get the rubber fuel line that connects the dual carbs? 3. Do any C300s have an outside visor over the windshield? Jim Eckert REckert300@xxxxxxx [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 13:44:38 -0500 From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: '61-'62 Dash pad -'60 remote hood latch - sale Good afternoon & happy Tuesday. I've a good (black) dashpad removed from a '62 300. Not sure if the embossing is same for '61, but fit should be identical. It's very nice except for a crack between the rear-view mirror hole and the windshield. That appears to be the only crack. The crack appears very fixable - though its fine for a driver as-is. There's a small pad of dbl-stick tape (coffee cup holder?) in the center. Not sure how best to remove it, (wd40?) so I left it alone. $100 + (careful)shipping. The hood latch came from a '60 New Yorker and does not have the cable or pull. I've got only the latch mechanism itself. Free + shipping. Thanks & have a great week. Mike V GA ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 15:33:08 EST From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx Subject: For Sale 300M It's time to let the last letter go. It's a good car, 99 model, white with tan as most real 300s were. Sport suspension, new tires, no sunroof, upscale radio with CD, 49k with 70k warrantee. $16,950 Larry Jett 950 Woodside Road Suite 4 Redwood City, CA 94061 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 12:41:03 +0900 From: "rfx" <rfx@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: 64 300 Eng. Cu.In. Hi all I have a 64 300 that has had the engine replaced. The only stampings I can find is FA 38647, under the distributor. Can someone tell me what cu. in. from these numbers? Many thanks. Ray [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 17:46:40 EST From: Deaugs1@xxxxxxx Subject: Chrome piece for a 64 I am in the process of rebuilding the body on my 64 300 non letter car. I am in need of the chrome that goes around the left front corner of the fender and then widens out for the wide stainless steel trim and 2 moldings that runs down the side. I also need the stamped metal piece that attaches to this part and goes to the hood opening. Thanks for the help. Dan 64-300 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 20:05:32 EST From: mjraguse@xxxxxxx Subject: 58 300 D generator question Could a few members with 300 D's please answer a generator question for me. The correct generator for non-air is the GJC-7013B. I have a GJC-7012-A which is a 57 Plymouth generator and is only 6 3/4" between the mounting ears. The mounting bracket requires 7 1/4" which is correct for the GHM series. Would you please measure the distance between the ears on your GJC generator. Could there be two different mounting brackets? Also the diameter of the GHM is 5" whereas the GJC is 4.45". If you haven't guessed I am trying to build a correct 58 generator but the differences between the 7012 and 7013 seem to be more than the specifications indicate. Thank you to those who help. Marv ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 8 Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 22:10:49 -0500 From: "Dou" <dou4@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Wanted Hello, all members, i'm wondering if anyone could help me finding a left side wheel well opening trim for a 1969+ Chrysler 300 mine is in need of replacement and is not restoreable. Also would like to know the part no. for the trim. Thanks to all involved ! Dou [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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