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There are 20 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
From: "Kathy Frank" <Frank@xxxxxxxxxx>
2. 300F vs Cramero
From: "L. Andrew Jugle" <lajugle@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
From: "Karl Peterson" <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Storage tips
From: Jonathan Sacks <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
11. Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
From: "Dave Grove Grove Automotive" <groveautomotive@xxxxxx>
12. Re: C300 Door sills
From: "Terry & Andree Hoeman" <tehoema@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. For sale
From: "kandyce hansen" <hansen.rehab@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
From: jlsavard@xxxxxxx
16. Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. 300C Question???
From: "Rusty and Thelma Roe" <saxblowr@xxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
19. Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 08:33:18 -0500
From: "Kathy Frank" <Frank@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
When I ran my 300G at the South Bend Indiana meet 3-4 years ago it ran plus/minus 15.60 stock with the air cleaners on. Took all tools, spare etc. out of trunk but had a full tank of gas. Was running on bias ply tires with no special tricks. Car is not a sure grip car. If your estimate of a 13.90 plus on the Camaro plus 2.345 you should be OK. I got up to the light, foot on brake and one on the gas just to get the RPMs up a bit but not too much to cause tire spin (bias plys, remember!) and let er rip. Finished at about 89 mph. Car was just shifting to high as I crossed the line. If any of the other suggestions I've seen improve your time more, you should really clean up.
(Motor on the G had just been rebuilt by George R. about 1000 miles earlier so everything was fresh and tight.)
Good luck. Even if you don't come out first, you'll have the car with the most class.
300ly,
Brian Frank
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 09:12:12 -0500
From: "L. Andrew Jugle" <lajugle@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300F vs Cramero
NITROUS.
A little dental surgery can do wonders....
L.A. Jugle, Elmhurst,IL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 10:43:18 -0400
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
Hi Again,
Make sure the chokes are wide open when you are ready to race. If they are
a little closed, the secondary's will not open. I wires mine wide open when
I raced. Set the timing to whatever gas you are using (minimum 92-93
premium). Make sure you have no pinging under full throttle when it's warmed
up. Any pinging will slow the car down. When you stage the car, do it the
same every time. I just light the second bulb (shallow staging) and with my
G, I have to leave on the last yellow light. Good Luck!
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: <Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 6:17 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
> Here's the bet between Father and Son. On the 12th, at Sears Point Drag
> Strip, my son has bet me that his 2001 Camero with a 2.345 second
handicap,
> can still beat Our (I say "Our" because all of our reputations are at
stake
> here) 300F in the quarter mile. It's computer engineering verses
old-style
> torque and carbs. If any of you (Verity, Riehl, Hertog?) have any
> suggestions, don't keep them to yourselves. Should the pup whip the Old
Man,
> he and the bride take the C rag to the wine tasting country, I win, they
go
> to church with me on Fathers Day and cook breakfast. Seems to me that the
> Camero might do a 13.90 plus 2.34 equals
> 16.24 to beat. Air cleaners on? off? RPM launch? Just roll out and then
> punch it? Shift with buttons? Timed for max with too much pinging?
Amount
> of air in rear tires? Open to any and all suggestions as a lot of people
> will be watching.
>
> Larry W Jett
> 950 Woodside Road Suite 4
> Redwood City CA 94061
> 650 368 3966
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
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>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 10:23:51 -0500
From: "Karl Peterson" <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
Racing with the air cleaners off is NOT good advise. The risk of sucking
some foreign object in those carbs is not worth the risk for one run (just
for fun). If you insist on running no air cleaners, only remove the paper
element from the housing and leave the housing in place.
Do NOT set the timing at 2 to 4 degrees as one poster advised. This is
actually less than the recommended timing for an ordinary New Yorker (5 deg
btdc). The factory timing for your "F" is 10 deg btdc, and I have found
that on my "G", 12 deg is optimum, ONLY if you mix in some 104 or better
octane fuel with a 1/4 tank of hi-test pump gas. Do not use this
"octane-in-a-can" junk you hear about.
If you allow the tranny to shift by itself, the factory shift points are
well below the max horsepower output of the 413. Shift it manually at 4800
and you will do much better and not run any risk of "overrevving" that
motor, as it will do 5200 with no sweat.
As far as revving the motor before leaving the line, remember that ram 413
is developing 480 ft lbs of torque at 2100 RPM and that is more than enough
to literally fry any tire short of a drag slick down to the rim before
you've travelled 20 feet, especially if you do not have a sure-grip rear
end. Take off full throttle from an idle and let the torque build
"naturally" to the max after you've actually got the beast moving.
As I said previously, if everything goes right, there's no reason you can't
expect your "F" to run low to mid 15's in the high 80's to maybe even low
90's, if the temp and humidity is optimum.
Karl
>From: "Karl Peterson" <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx, chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
>Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 21:30:36 -0500
>
>Leave the air cleaners on. Set the timing at 12Deg BTDC. Use a 50/50 mix
>of Cam II racing fuel and 91 oct pump gas. Have the widest set of tires on
>the rear that you can find that will fit. Take everything out of the car
>that isn't bolted down, (spare, jack, etc). Do not rev motor at starting
>line; punch it from idle. Do not drive through the "water" ahead of the
>starting line; go around it. Shift with the buttons at 4800 RPM. Give it
>the gas as soon as you see the last yellow lite on the tree before the
>green, (it will take a full second for that big 413 to respond anyway). If
>you are really serious about it, raise the front torsion bar setting 2" and
>run 20 lbs air in rear tires and spray the treads with belt dressing to
>increase the grip off the line.
>
>Your "F" should be able to do low to mid 15's at around 87 to 92 MPH in the
>quarter. With that Camaros handicap (unless it's one of those 300+ hp
>tuned-port injection systems), you should be able to take him. I hope he
>enjoys his dinner.
>
>Let us know how it all turns out.
>
>Karl
>
>
> >From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx
> >To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: [Chrysler300] Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
> >Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 18:17:38 EDT
> >
> >Here's the bet between Father and Son. On the 12th, at Sears Point Drag
> >Strip, my son has bet me that his 2001 Camero with a 2.345 second
>handicap,
> >can still beat Our (I say "Our" because all of our reputations are at
> >stake
> >here) 300F in the quarter mile. It's computer engineering verses
>old-style
> >torque and carbs. If any of you (Verity, Riehl, Hertog?) have any
> >suggestions, don't keep them to yourselves. Should the pup whip the Old
> >Man,
> >he and the bride take the C rag to the wine tasting country, I win, they
> >go
> >to church with me on Fathers Day and cook breakfast. Seems to me that
>the
> >Camero might do a 13.90 plus 2.34 equals
> >16.24 to beat. Air cleaners on? off? RPM launch? Just roll out and
>then
> >punch it? Shift with buttons? Timed for max with too much pinging?
>Amount
> >of air in rear tires? Open to any and all suggestions as a lot of people
> >will be watching.
> >
> >Larry W Jett
> >950 Woodside Road Suite 4
> >Redwood City CA 94061
> >650 368 3966
> >
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
>http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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>
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 09:09:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Sacks <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Storage tips
Hi all,
I'm planning on storing my '66 300 for a year. Thought
I'd go to the club to see if anyone has any thoughts
or tips.
I'll be putting stabilt in the engine, and will be
putting her up on blocks. Anyone have any other
thoughts?
As always, thanks so much...j
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 17:18:14 EDT
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
I think if you put it in Drive and leave the line from idle speed, you're
being a good daddy and letting your kid win. Remember, you're representing
us! Sometimes a little smoke is ok - better than bogging down. I would
suggest a few practice launches with the "1" button pushed, one foot on the
brake and one foot revving it up as much as you can without breaking loose
(trial and error). You could lose traction anyway, but if you're in Drive,
you may get an upshift when you let up on it, and the race is over. If you
start in Low you can control the shifting.
Best of luck! Don't embarrass him too much.
George Clineman
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 17:34:31 -0400
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
Hey Karl,
Maybe you better check your service bulletin for the specs on an F. The
timing is 5 degrees BTDC not 10. Optimum timing depends on the condition of
the engine, not all are the same. The TDC mark may not even be accurate.
The torque on a 300 F engine is 495 lb ft @ 2,800 RPM. While the max HP
rating may be at 5,000, the engine is not pulling very hard after around
4,500. On a stock engine, let it shift for itself.
Your right about starting line technique, bringing the RPM's up will just
fry the tire (s).
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Peterson <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>; <Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx>;
<chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
> Racing with the air cleaners off is NOT good advise. The risk of sucking
> some foreign object in those carbs is not worth the risk for one run (just
> for fun). If you insist on running no air cleaners, only remove the paper
> element from the housing and leave the housing in place.
>
> Do NOT set the timing at 2 to 4 degrees as one poster advised. This is
> actually less than the recommended timing for an ordinary New Yorker (5
deg
> btdc). The factory timing for your "F" is 10 deg btdc, and I have found
> that on my "G", 12 deg is optimum, ONLY if you mix in some 104 or better
> octane fuel with a 1/4 tank of hi-test pump gas. Do not use this
> "octane-in-a-can" junk you hear about.
>
> If you allow the tranny to shift by itself, the factory shift points are
> well below the max horsepower output of the 413. Shift it manually at
4800
> and you will do much better and not run any risk of "overrevving" that
> motor, as it will do 5200 with no sweat.
>
> As far as revving the motor before leaving the line, remember that ram 413
> is developing 480 ft lbs of torque at 2100 RPM and that is more than
enough
> to literally fry any tire short of a drag slick down to the rim before
> you've travelled 20 feet, especially if you do not have a sure-grip rear
> end. Take off full throttle from an idle and let the torque build
> "naturally" to the max after you've actually got the beast moving.
>
> As I said previously, if everything goes right, there's no reason you
can't
> expect your "F" to run low to mid 15's in the high 80's to maybe even low
> 90's, if the temp and humidity is optimum.
>
> Karl
>
>
> >From: "Karl Peterson" <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> >To: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx, chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
> >Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 21:30:36 -0500
> >
> >Leave the air cleaners on. Set the timing at 12Deg BTDC. Use a 50/50
mix
> >of Cam II racing fuel and 91 oct pump gas. Have the widest set of tires
on
> >the rear that you can find that will fit. Take everything out of the car
> >that isn't bolted down, (spare, jack, etc). Do not rev motor at starting
> >line; punch it from idle. Do not drive through the "water" ahead of the
> >starting line; go around it. Shift with the buttons at 4800 RPM. Give
it
> >the gas as soon as you see the last yellow lite on the tree before the
> >green, (it will take a full second for that big 413 to respond anyway).
If
> >you are really serious about it, raise the front torsion bar setting 2"
and
> >run 20 lbs air in rear tires and spray the treads with belt dressing to
> >increase the grip off the line.
> >
> >Your "F" should be able to do low to mid 15's at around 87 to 92 MPH in
the
> >quarter. With that Camaros handicap (unless it's one of those 300+ hp
> >tuned-port injection systems), you should be able to take him. I hope he
> >enjoys his dinner.
> >
> >Let us know how it all turns out.
> >
> >Karl
> >
> >
> > >From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx
> > >To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >Subject: [Chrysler300] Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
> > >Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 18:17:38 EDT
> > >
> > >Here's the bet between Father and Son. On the 12th, at Sears Point
Drag
> > >Strip, my son has bet me that his 2001 Camero with a 2.345 second
> >handicap,
> > >can still beat Our (I say "Our" because all of our reputations are at
> > >stake
> > >here) 300F in the quarter mile. It's computer engineering verses
> >old-style
> > >torque and carbs. If any of you (Verity, Riehl, Hertog?) have any
> > >suggestions, don't keep them to yourselves. Should the pup whip the
Old
> > >Man,
> > >he and the bride take the C rag to the wine tasting country, I win,
they
> > >go
> > >to church with me on Fathers Day and cook breakfast. Seems to me that
> >the
> > >Camero might do a 13.90 plus 2.34 equals
> > >16.24 to beat. Air cleaners on? off? RPM launch? Just roll out and
> >then
> > >punch it? Shift with buttons? Timed for max with too much pinging?
> >Amount
> > >of air in rear tires? Open to any and all suggestions as a lot of
people
> > >will be watching.
> > >
> > >Larry W Jett
> > >950 Woodside Road Suite 4
> > >Redwood City CA 94061
> > >650 368 3966
> > >
> > >
> > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >_________________________________________________________________
> >Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> >http://www.hotmail.com
> >
> >
> >
> >To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> >Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >For list server instructions, go to
> >http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 15:09:28 -0700
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
Just a couple more tips to add to the rest of these fine ideas.
The tire size response was a good one to increase the gear ratio and tire
pressure can also be important especially if your trying to hook-up with
stock pizza-cutter tires. There are a few other things that have been known
to sqeeze out a tenth or so.
-Lighten the front end as much as possible but be carefull about reducing
weight over the rear wheels.
-Disconnecting the front shocks or replacing them with an old worn-out pair
can help weight transfer.
-Unclamping the leaf springs on the rear side will allow the spring to coil
up more and increase your traction as well as transferring weight much
better.
-A fresh bag of ice or dry ice under an intake always helps by cooling the
air and condensing it as it travels through the runners. Maybe you can find
a way to wrap the long runners on your car with ice?
-A cool can can be fashioned from a jug and some hard line. Make a coil with
fuel line (steel or aluminum) inside a coffee can or something suitable and
connect it in-line with your fuel line as close to the carbs as possible.
Before your race, add dry ice or ice water to the can and it will super-cool
the fuel boosting your horsepower. You can buy these too.
-Keep your belts tight, you don't want them spinning off at high RPM in the
middle of the race but disconnect the alternator/generator so it is
free-wheeling (no load) It's like when your A/C is turned off, the
compressor just spins freely and robs little HP.
-You could run dryer duct or PVC pipe to your carbs from behind the grille
for Ram Air.
-Make sure you practice on a Dragstip if that is where this match is to take
place. If you think you have a traction problem on the street with street
tires......wait till you try and launch it on a bed of rubber! Don't heat
the tires much if any unless you are using slicks, don't go through the
water box, and get used to looking at the car without hubcaps for the day
because they don't usually let you run them on the strip.
-As someone else mentioned, a little belt dressing or VHT will help a bit.
-As for the timing, advance it until it pings and then back it off a degree
for optimum performance.
Good Luck. You shouldn't have too much trouble beating him with that
handicap. I ran my mildly modified '65 300 383 2 barrel car for fun once and
it ran 14.60's on a cool day.
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 15:11:45 -0700
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
Bogging down? Is that possible with an 'F'? :)
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 18:22:17 EDT
From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
This is getting to be more fun than a barrel of monkeys.
GO
LARRY
GO
LARRY
GO
GO
GO!!!!!!!!!!!
Dan Reitz
300F
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 18:42:54 -0400
From: "Dave Grove Grove Automotive" <groveautomotive@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
Amen to that!!
BTW - unclamping the springs was suggested - but do *not* UN-clamp the front
(the part in front of the axle) - this part of the spring should remain
"stiff" - it acts like a "traction bar". Also, someone mentioned removing
the front shocks - I don't recommend that (things might get a bit hairy on
the top-end - especially if the track has any "dips" or whatever) - but an
alternative is to just "loosen" the top nuts on the shocks, - run them all
the way up to the top. If the nuts turn too easily (like you can just
"spin" them with your hand when they get up to the top), - just "double-nut"
them. This will allow the front end to rise quickly (and thus hopefully
"plant" the rear tires), but still allow for *some* control if the going
gets a bit rough at 90 mph or so.
As has been pointed out, THE most important part of this race is going to be
right at the starting line - i.e., HOOK the beast.
And don't forget to "trim the tree" - Junior might get a little "anxious"
and red light - especially since (hopefully) the big Chrysler will be about
70 or 75 ft down the track before he can even GO - and a win is a win,
red-light or not eh? (well, maybe not in this case).
I really hope he does *not* redlight, since that only increases his chances
of passing you.
At any rate, DO try and get in some "practice runs" (mostly "launches".
Only trial & error will reveal the best technique for your particular car -
and don't forget that the "average" street can provide *better* traction
than the average strip (especially with street tires), so try and get a few
"launches" in on the track where you are going to run.
LTR
DaveG.
----- Original Message -----
From: <dan300f@xxxxxxx>
To: <RedwoodLse@xxxxxxx>; <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 6:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
> This is getting to be more fun than a barrel of monkeys.
>
> GO
> LARRY
> GO
> LARRY
> GO
> GO
> GO!!!!!!!!!!!
> Dan Reitz
> 300F
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 18:15:28 -0500
From: "Terry & Andree Hoeman" <tehoema@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: C300 Door sills
Reproductions are being made but they are just flat aluminum with a picture
of the correct sill on it. Lot better than real bad ones but poor
otherwise.
----- Original Message -----
From: "MGalassi" <C300lover@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 12:47 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] C300 Door sills
> Hello, Does anyone know of a source for door sills for the 55? I keep
polishing mine w/ mothers mag wheel polish and they seem to be getting very
thin around the edges. Has any one tried what I believe is "bright dip" for
Al body trim?
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 16:22:51 -0700
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
I second that! Maybe someone should videotape this event and post it for all
to see. (so long as things go our way of course) I'd like to see some pics
of this race-ready 300.
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 19:08:18 -0500
From: "kandyce hansen" <hansen.rehab@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: For sale
I saw this in the Seattle paper today.
1963 Chrysler 300 Convertibles (2)
1 pace car $2800 425-347-3193
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 21:57:25 EDT
From: jlsavard@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
OK, All You Guys.....
You have gotten me so confused that I think it only fair that one of you with
an appropriate car go through the list and systematically test with each set
of suggestions, then report back to the group!
And of course, I would LOVE to see the bowtie UNTIED!!!!
Good Luck to the participants, I wish I could be there to watch!
Joe Savard
Lake Orion, MI
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 00:12:14 -0400
From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
If you remember, the 2-3 upshift on a cast iron TorqueFlite is automatic and
can't be controlled with the push buttons. So there isn't much to be gained
with manual shifting. If the car still has the correct trans, the 1-2
upshift will be about 47-4900 rpm, just right for this torque motor. This is
a low rpm motor especially through the stock exhaust manifolds and mufflers.
I street raced one of these ram cars back in the early 60's and there is
nothing to be gained by shifting 1-2 above 5000 rpm, the stock trans is
pretty close. If you spin the tires badly enough to cause an early upshift,
your dead anyway.
If you still have the stock torque convertor, you'll find that the convertor
has a "sweeet spot" at aroung 1200-1500 rpm on the launch. Hold the car on
the starting line with the brakes and preload the convertor a little bit. If
you mash it from a dead idle the convertor delivers a big wallop to the rear
tires and they may break loose and spin. If you come up on the convertor too
far, you will be past the torque multiplication range and the car will leave
sluggishly. You can find the right rpm on the street. Find a secluded
stretch of ribbed concrete road and practice a few blasts. When you find the
right rpm on the convertor, the car will leap forward with just a hint of
tire spin. Good luck.
>From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
>To: longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx, RedwoodLse@xxxxxxx,
>chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
>Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 17:18:14 EDT
>MIME-Version: 1.0
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>
>I think if you put it in Drive and leave the line from idle speed, you're
>being a good daddy and letting your kid win. Remember, you're representing
>us! Sometimes a little smoke is ok - better than bogging down. I would
>suggest a few practice launches with the "1" button pushed, one foot on the
>brake and one foot revving it up as much as you can without breaking loose
>(trial and error). You could lose traction anyway, but if you're in Drive,
>you may get an upshift when you let up on it, and the race is over. If you
>start in Low you can control the shifting.
>
>Best of luck! Don't embarrass him too much.
>
>George Clineman
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 21:26:09 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)
From: "Rusty and Thelma Roe" <saxblowr@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300C Question???
Should the 300C serial number match the engine block number or not....my car is serial number 2550 and the engine number ends in 2591......just wondering......Rusty in Oregon 57 300C HDT
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 00:54:22 EDT
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
The reason I think it's best to use the "1" button is that if there's any
wheelspin, you'll need to lift a little (they used to call it feathering the
throttle). If this causes an upshift, an otherwise good start will be
wasted. Keep your finger on the "2" button (or Drive button, since you don't
have any choice of shift point from 2 to 3). The only down side to this is
that you could overwind in first. This happened to me once. My finger
slipped of the button and I overwound. Still got the trophy, though! I
could see the Ford in the rear view mirror!
George
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 23:21:00 -0700
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
Well, I read all of the all of the posts on Larry's day out with the
Bowtie. There were plenty of good suggestions. Here's a couple of thoughts.
1) Have you checked the jets, ( no pun intended) ? So often carbs get put
on with no consideration for altitude. To rich, to lean and you lost pony's
If you have not checked, with the car warmed up run for 15 + minuets on the
highway at a steady 60 mph or more. Pull off, turn motor off as soon as
possible. Pull a plug or two and read for lean or rich. Either one will
lose HP.
2) What is the rear end gear ratio. To high and you already lost. That
being said I don't expect you are going to tear the rear end out.
3) Have the trans bands been checked lately? A little extra band slipping
at full throttle will ad a few milliseconds to your time.
4) K&N air flirters is good for any car. Race or not. You should check fuel
mixture for sure if you make any changes that effect carburetors.
5) Are the plug leads in good condition. Any arcing and you lost power. If
you are not sure, at night in pitch black, motor running look for any arcs
from the leads to the motor.
6) Is the coil putting out. You may want to have it tested.
Go eat em up.
Gary
At 09:48 PM 6/4/2002 -0500, paulholm wrote:
>Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx wrote:
>
>snip
>
> > Air cleaners on? off? RPM launch? Just roll out and then
> > punch it? Shift with buttons? Timed for max with too much pinging?
> > Amount of air in rear tires? Open to any and all suggestions as a
> > lot of people will be watching.
>
> > Larry W Jett
>
>Might think about unshrouding the air filters.
>One trick that was supposed to help on the "newer" aircleaners
>(those with a top like the mid 60's to mid 70's) was to invert
>the aircleaner lid.
>a round piece of flat metal and drilled for the holddown
>stud might help a little.
>--
>Paul Holmgren
>Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
>2 57 300-C's in Indy
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 08:43:12 -0400
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
K&N filter number is KNN-E1070. Available from Summit Racing for 33.39 each
(5/25/2000). 1-800-230-3030
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: paulholm <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; <Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx>
Cc: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 2:21 AM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Mopar vs Bowtie.....Group Effort
> Well, I read all of the all of the posts on Larry's day out with the
> Bowtie. There were plenty of good suggestions. Here's a couple of
thoughts.
>
> 1) Have you checked the jets, ( no pun intended) ? So often carbs get put
> on with no consideration for altitude. To rich, to lean and you lost
pony's
> If you have not checked, with the car warmed up run for 15 + minuets on
the
> highway at a steady 60 mph or more. Pull off, turn motor off as soon as
> possible. Pull a plug or two and read for lean or rich. Either one will
> lose HP.
> 2) What is the rear end gear ratio. To high and you already lost. That
> being said I don't expect you are going to tear the rear end out.
> 3) Have the trans bands been checked lately? A little extra band slipping
> at full throttle will ad a few milliseconds to your time.
> 4) K&N air flirters is good for any car. Race or not. You should check
fuel
> mixture for sure if you make any changes that effect carburetors.
> 5) Are the plug leads in good condition. Any arcing and you lost power. If
> you are not sure, at night in pitch black, motor running look for any arcs
> from the leads to the motor.
> 6) Is the coil putting out. You may want to have it tested.
>
> Go eat em up.
>
> Gary
>
> At 09:48 PM 6/4/2002 -0500, paulholm wrote:
> >Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx wrote:
> >
> >snip
> >
> > > Air cleaners on? off? RPM launch? Just roll out and then
> > > punch it? Shift with buttons? Timed for max with too much pinging?
> > > Amount of air in rear tires? Open to any and all suggestions as a
> > > lot of people will be watching.
> >
> > > Larry W Jett
> >
> >Might think about unshrouding the air filters.
> >One trick that was supposed to help on the "newer" aircleaners
> >(those with a top like the mid 60's to mid 70's) was to invert
> >the aircleaner lid.
> >a round piece of flat metal and drilled for the holddown
> >stud might help a little.
> >--
> >Paul Holmgren
> >Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
> >2 57 300-C's in Indy
> >
> >
> >To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> >Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >For list server instructions, go to
> >http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
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>
>
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