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There are 9 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. engie id.
From: Gnspeedbird@xxxxxxx
2. Don Cole
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Interior parts
From: Paul Martin <paul_martin78ca@xxxxxxxx>
4. eBay
From: "Jerry" <mopar-man@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. using eBay...another question
From: "Jerry" <mopar-man@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. front drum for 60 chrys.300F
From: "thomas powers" <classiccars64@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Question & Parts needed for 65 Chrysler 300
From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: front drum for 60 chrys.300F
From: Gary W Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. 413 Pushrods
From: "jennifer allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 14:25:51 EDT
From: Gnspeedbird@xxxxxxx
Subject: engie id.
can anyone help id this block.....casting number 1945429 with LS below
the
number. Below the distributer is stamped AC1 and 666220......any
help????/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 13:42:43 -0500
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Don Cole
Couldn't find your e-mail addy, drop me a reply!
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 16:06:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: Paul Martin <paul_martin78ca@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Interior parts
I am about to install a Gary Goers Interior in my 300F
Hardtop. I have acomplete kit with the exception of
new aluminum pieces for the door panels.
Question?
Do the original aluminum panels come off easily? Or
are they glued on?
Paul Martin
300F
Vancouver BC
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 17:50:41 -0400
From: "Jerry" <mopar-man@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: eBay
Ok... I'm trying to get my C300 on eBay and noticed that there is a "Buy
it now" option. Is anyone familiar with that
and are there any advantages to using that versus the out-and-out bidding
version? I'm looking to get a set price for
my C300 so any advice would be appreciated.
Jerry Browarski
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 21:10:59 -0400
From: "Jerry" <mopar-man@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: using eBay...another question
Ok.... must be old age but I need more help with the posting of my C300.
I'm going to post it in the eBay Motors
category. That has five choices none of them seem to specifically deal
with classic cars. The categories are
Motorcycles (I'm sure that's not the category I'll need), Other Vehicles
(Possible...), Passenger Vehicles (another
possibility), Parts & Accessories (won't need that one either), and
Everything Else. So... am I on the right page
and if so, what's the proper category for a classic car? Other Vehicles
or Passenger Vehicles?
Jerry Browarski
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 01:49:11 +0000
From: "thomas powers" <classiccars64@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: front drum for 60 chrys.300F
Hello.
Would anyone have a good used brake drum front drivers side that is
not
turned to much for a 60 300F.Napa turned mine and took to much off of the
drum and now the car doesnt stop good you put the brake to the floor and
it
keeps going thank you tom.
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 21:41:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question & Parts needed for 65 Chrysler 300
Wes,
The most likely cause of the leak you describe is a bad diaghram in the
booster. A leak in the hose would leak all the time, not just when the
brake pedal is depressed.
DO NOT drive the car until it is fixed because not only will your brakes
not get the boost they need, but you can damage your engine. Look at the
intake manifold runner where the vacuum hoses get their vacuum and you
will notice all the vacuum is drawn from one runner. This means that the
leak is severely leaning out the mixture on that cylinder and can burn a
valve or seize a piston. An emergency fix if the booster starts leaking on
the road that will get you home is to pull the hose from the booster and
plug it . but you won't have any boost and will need to use extreme care
in stopping.
My vote is replace the booster ASAP.
Okie Bob
Py426Hemi@xxxxxxx wrote:
Hi everybody!
Have a quick question, I think I have a bad brake booster on my 65 Newport
wagon? When I hit the brake pedal I hear vacuum rushing, when I release
the
pedal it stops?
I want to go ahead and replace the booster, but I am getting feed back
from
others that the booster is NOT bad but I still think it is bad. I am going
to
let you guys finalize on this booster problem what I should do and go from
there.
Also, I need the following parts for my 65,300 2 door HT, and want to know
if
anyone has any of the following parts they want to sell me. When
e-mailing
me back, please include prices for the parts, package deals welcome! Will
workout the shipping costs later.
Thanks for all your help! Wes
Wish list.
1. Brake booster
2. Rear window (Back window 300 2 door HT)
3. Right & left front fenders
4. 2 wheel 300 covers
5. Front bumper
6. Master cylinder (single)
7. Choke for 383 intake (2 barrel carb)
8. left front torsion bar assembly
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 22:47:52 -0700
From: Gary W Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: front drum for 60 chrys.300F
Warning. Do not take your classic drums to a parts house to have them
turned. Napa is a parts house and not brake specialists. I would not drive
by a parts house w/ my drums let alone have them turn them. No offense Tom
P. you did not know the guy behind the drum lath likely had 10 min.
training, ( No offense to good mechanics). I would only consider a break
specialist, maybe a commercial house. The first thing you want to ask if
they will measure them w/ you present and how much they estimate they will
need to turn to clean up. The rule of thumb is .060" over max. That's what
happened to Tom P. Drum to thin and heat up quickly and bingo you have
brake fade. I would also ask to wait for the drums to see how much is
required to clean up. If you are close to the .060" over then I would not
hesitate to leave a little signs of scoring. Example if you had riveted
linings and had a score all the way around I would not be concerned to
turn
it all out just to see a perfect surface. That's my opinion, talk to your
mechanic. Another problem to be concerned with is when a drum is turned
out
of concentricity or wobble. In both cases your pedal will pump as you
apply
brakes. Ask the shop how close they guarantee they can hold those
tolerances, (they may chase you out of the shop?). My manual for my C
calls
out .005" That's two hairs, (from your head).
I am fortunate to turn my own drums. I press out the bearing races so my
fixture is secured to the race seats the truest surface Chrysler could
provide. I then indicate in for concentricity and wobble. After turning
front or back sets to within .005" of each other I then mount on spindle
or
axle and indicate again,(backing plates off). All of mine are within the
factory spec of .005".
Good luck turning.
Gary
At 01:49 AM 07/15/2003 +0000, thomas powers wrote:
>Hello.
> Would anyone have a good used brake drum front drivers side that is
not
>turned to much for a 60 300F.Napa turned mine and took to much off of the
>drum and now the car doesnt stop good you put the brake to the floor and
it
>keeps going thank you tom.
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
>http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 00:44:18 -0700
From: "jennifer allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 413 Pushrods
Before I list them on eBay, is anyone interested in 16 brand new stock
pushrods for a 413?
I bought them for our '62 300 motor before I realized that the larger
camshaft I'm going to run would require a different length pushrod.
I don't have each pushrod box, but they are a full set of unused 413
pushrods.
Thanks,
Matt & Jennifer Allyn
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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