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There are 13 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Wire Wheel Hubcaps by Bornstein
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Wire Wheel Hubcaps by Bornstein
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Reproducing Plastic Parts
From: "Frank Bakanau" <FBAKANAU@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Spam-mail
From: "Johan" <JOHAN.300@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Spam-mail
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Reproducing Plastic Parts
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Spam-mail
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Fuel gauge problem
From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
9. Re: Fuel gauge problem
From: Philippe Courant <accf-club@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. 1965 300L
From: "Ray" <rfx@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: 1965 300L
From: jp300hurst@xxxxxxx
12. Re: 300G Wheels
From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
13. Power Steering Pump - reply
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 08:23:39 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Wire Wheel Hubcaps by Bornstein
Good news: Bob Bornstein is back offering the wire wheel hubcaps again. His ad is on p 204 of the Nov. Hemmings, first column. However his price is lower which is a good thing, but until someone gets an order, we won't know if the quality has changed. Ad does state "USA made".
Wayne
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 09:31:01 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Wire Wheel Hubcaps by Bornstein
For those of you who don't get Hemmings.
Bob Bornstein
312 S. Lincoln St.
Burbank, CA 91506
818-567-4479
New price $150 set of 4.
W
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 09:00:19 -0700
From: "Frank Bakanau" <FBAKANAU@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Reproducing Plastic Parts
This is a survey posting. I am considering becoming an OEM for a 3-D
printer. This gizmo is similar to stereo lithography, where the machine
builds parts by layering a polymer and building a part. The 3-D printer
takes a solid model, such as from ProEngineer or AutoCAD Inventor, slices it
into .010 layers, and "prints" using a .010 layer of ABS plastic. The
result is a hard plastic part, exactly like the electronic solid model,
within plus/minus .004. It can make parts within a 8 X 8 X 12 inch box. SO
you might send me a broken power window switch and I would measure it, model
it in SolidWorks, and send you back an exact copy or copies.
Look at http://www.dimensionprinting.com
So, does this sound like something people like us could use as a service.
Since I have to buy a demo unit, I am looking to keep it busy. Thanks for
your opinions.
Frank in Foggy Eugene
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 18:49:15 +0200
From: "Johan" <JOHAN.300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Spam-mail
Hello guys.
I think I'm close to one hundred each day now. I talking about spam-mails.
Is there anybody out there who can tell me how to get rid of this terror.
I know this is not a 300-topic but this started when our great club change
our site and started to use this Yahoo address we using today.
I'm not a computer-freak so please don't give any complicated
" go-really-deep-in-your-system-stuff-and-change-that-little-dot-there" advice.
Hope for a great autumn for everybody.
Best regards..... Johan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 12:16:24 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Spam-mail
Hi Johan; Check with your ISP and see if they have a Spam Filter option. If
so turn it on, and for a few weeks, look at the sender and subject to insure
messages you want aren't getting caught. You can select the ones you want
and tell the filter that that sender or message line (like " Chrysler300" is
OK to deliver. Usually very easy to manage, even if you're not a geek.
I've been keeping count, and my ISP's Spam Filter has been holding 250-300
per DAY. And I still get about 50 a day in my in-box. Every few days, I get
an e-mail from my ISP, which informs me that there are intercepted messages.
I don't check them any more, just dump all the messages.
Good luck, Ray Jones
> From: "Johan" <JOHAN.300@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 18:49:15 +0200
> To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Spam-mail
>
> Hello guys.
>
> I think I'm close to one hundred each day now. I talking about spam-mails.
> Is there anybody out there who can tell me how to get rid of this terror.
> I know this is not a 300-topic but this started when our great club change
> our site and started to use this Yahoo address we using today.
> I'm not a computer-freak so please don't give any complicated
> " go-really-deep-in-your-system-stuff-and-change-that-little-dot-there"
> advice.
> Hope for a great autumn for everybody.
>
>
> Best regards..... Johan
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 12:27:24 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Reproducing Plastic Parts
Interesting......Finishes?,....Colors?,.....Vacuum chrome? I can thjink of
lots of uses........all those litt BS parts that are snapping as you take
stuff apart or re-assemble.
Ray Jones
> From: "Frank Bakanau" <FBAKANAU@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 09:00:19 -0700
> To: "chrysler" <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Reproducing Plastic Parts
>
> This is a survey posting. I am considering becoming an OEM for a 3-D
> printer. This gizmo is similar to stereo lithography, where the machine
> builds parts by layering a polymer and building a part. The 3-D printer
> takes a solid model, such as from ProEngineer or AutoCAD Inventor, slices it
> into .010 layers, and "prints" using a .010 layer of ABS plastic. The
> result is a hard plastic part, exactly like the electronic solid model,
> within plus/minus .004. It can make parts within a 8 X 8 X 12 inch box. SO
> you might send me a broken power window switch and I would measure it, model
> it in SolidWorks, and send you back an exact copy or copies.
>
> Look at http://www.dimensionprinting.com
>
> So, does this sound like something people like us could use as a service.
> Since I have to buy a demo unit, I am looking to keep it busy. Thanks for
> your opinions.
>
> Frank in Foggy Eugene
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 14:08:08 -0500
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Spam-mail
Johan wrote:
> Hello guys.
> I think I'm close to one hundred each day now. I talking about spam-mails.
> Is there anybody out there who can tell me how to get rid of this terror.
> I know this is not a 300-topic but this started when our great club change
> our site and started to use this Yahoo address we using today.
> I'm not a computer-freak so please don't give any complicated
> " go-really-deep-in-your-system-stuff-and-change-that-little-dot-there" advice.
> Hope for a great autumn for everybody.
> Best regards..... Johan
IF these are of the "Microsoft Updates, and related Warnings" your ISP should
be attempting to block this I would expect.
I have been in contact with others who saw a day to 2 worth of these before
their particular ISP started to block them. SO FAR my ISP has failed to put
a halt to these critters.
If these are of the "personal Life Improvements" variations, I think a lot of
them are originating from Asia and Europe. There does exist scanning and logic
software that can filter and block some of it.
AGAIN this sort of software can be applied at the ISP. IF They Choose To Do So.
Complain to your Tech Support folks at your particular Internet Provider.
(all this might be counter to thier business models, after all they also
promoted
this sort of activity to "Get Rich Quick" schemers.)
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 15:59:51 EDT
From: dan300f@xxxxxxx
Subject: Fuel gauge problem
Hi all:
I want to thank all who responded to my cry for help. I received
many suggestions from leaky float to bad ground. You name it.
Well, I bit the bullet and removed the unit from the tank and the float
was just fine. Checked the circuit from the lead at the tank to the
gauge and it checked out fine. Then I checked for continuity across
the wound wires (don't know what to call it) and found that I have 2
opens in the wire. And as luck would have it, it will only register at
a position that is when the tank is full or near full. So I can only
guess at how much I have when the tank gets low.
Without going into a lot of detail of what I tried, I am now attempting
to fix it temporarily with liquid solder. With a magnifying glass, I
found where the opens are and which side of the open I should solder
the loose wires to. The liquid solder has no electrical properties so I
just held the loose end of the wire at a place where it would make
contact and close the open. Right now, the solder is curing and I am
able to get continuity across the entire length where the wiper normally
slides. I'll report on how it works out.
The windings where the wiper rides are quite worn and I'll bet
some of you may be experiencing this same problem. I'll be
looking for a replacement. In the meantime, does anyone know
what gage and kind of wire is used for this purpose. It does
not seem all that difficult to rewind it if I can find the right wire.
Anyone?????
Thanks again.
Dan Reitz
Northridge, CA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 23:22:50 +0200
From: Philippe Courant <accf-club@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge problem
(i'm not sure that the message goes through, Dan has an "aol" adress and
aol doesn't "like" my provider so i send to the whole list)
Hi,
I think you must use the same wire as on "power resistor": these
resistors use some "resistor wire" (don't know the correct word..) and
the wire is "coiled" on the support; the thinest (and longest) you have,
the much resistance you have. I remember that when i works on electronic
kits (it was 10 or 15 years ago !) i made some resistors like that when
i can't find the correct value. I bought at an electronic shop this
"resistor wire" (the seller must tell you what is the resistance / foot
) and then you wind this wire on an insulator support (or on the air if
the wire is enough large).
About the gauge you must know what is the correct resistance of the full
coil. I 've measured mine some years ago (don't know if '57 gauges are
the same) so i can tell you (tomorrow !) the resistance.
--
Philippe COURANT (Pau, France)- Webmaster des sites ACCF et C-I-F
Imperial 1957 Crown convertible
Buick 1996 Roadmaster wagon
- American Car Club de France (ACCF) : http://www.accf.com
- Chrysler Imperial France (C-I-F) : http://www.ifrance.com/c-i-f
- Cadillac " Standard of Excellence " : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-cad
- SportsCars : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-sprtcar
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:25:36 -0700
From: "Ray" <rfx@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 1965 300L
Hi members
I found a small 1"X 3" paper tag attached to the springs of the botton rear seat of my 300L. The numbers on it are:
M5W 1127 64
LA5 ?07 M5
2522066-6
Anyone know what this is what the numbers mean? Thanks.
Ray
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 20:35:03 EDT
From: jp300hurst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 1965 300L
In a message dated 10/8/2003 7:32:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rfx@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> M5W 1127 64
> LA5 ?07 M5
> 2522066-6
>
My best guess is that the seats are white and were made on 11-27-64. The
2522066 might be the part number. The rest of the codes have me stumped.
John
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 12:53:42 +1300
From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300G Wheels
Jeff......
.My '61 & '62 parts books list 15" x 6" wheels, p/n 1674194 as being
used on a lot of MoPars,not only Chrysler...... but not Imperials.The p/n
for Imps is 2122478.
Have you tried Murray Park, in Tiffin,Ohio? Murray is a member, with a
salvage yard.He has lots of MoPar parts. I got 14" x 6 1/2" 's a few years
back for my '60, which had acquired mostly 14" x 5 1/2" 's.
The address I have for Murray is mbpark@xxxxxxxxxx
May well be worth a try......
Cheerz..........
Dave in NZ.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Gretz" <gretz@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2003 10:15 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300G Wheels
I'm looking for 4 15 x 6 stock wheels for my 300G. Can anyone tell me if
other Chrysler models used the same wheels as the 300G? Maybe the
Imperial or New Yorker wagon?
Thanks,
Jeff Gretz
300G
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
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To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 22:51:25 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Power Steering Pump - reply
Hi Terry,.
Time for plagiarism: I am hereby quoting our esteemed 300G model-year
consultant, the one and only Don ... (drumroll).... Verity, as far as power
steering pump rebuild kits :
Carquest # 35139 for the small pump (59-60), and 35140 for the large pump.
Gates was the original supplier, Carquest re-boxes everything in their name.
300ly,
Don
300'ly
John Hertog
Sag Harbor NY
----- Original Message -----
From: <pennsy300@xxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2003 3:15 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Power Steering Pump
The power steering pump on my 300 D ("slipper type") is oozing a small
amount
of PS fluid. The leak seems to be from the O-ring sealing the actual pump
to
the fluid reservoir. Does anybody have any specs on this O-ring? Thanaks,
Terry McTaggart
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