[Chrysler300] More info on Detail Clay

["Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I have received several emails offline on detailing clay and questions
regarding its use.
A couple of points that I forgot to mention.
1.  When done with using it you must seal it securely so that it does not
dry out(a single piece can be used for quite some time, which is good as it
is not inexpensive.  However do not merely wrap in a Baggy and assume all is
well.  When you unwrap it, you will find that the plastic clings to the clay
and sometimes is impossible to separate.  I have found that just using a
small jar(perhaps spraying just a tad of you lubricant in it first) and
sealing it securely works perfectly.
2.  If you ever drop it on the floor or ground, just remember that it will
pick up on the dirt and sand particles and the next time you use it you will
have instant scratches on your paint.  It is best to discard it if dropped.
3.  Monitor it closely for its finally wearing out(picking up toooooo much
stuff over a period of time).  Discard it then, but again it can last a long
time.
4.  It is not meant to replace waxing.  It is meant to replace the labor
intensive cleaning of your paint with abrasive or aggressive cleaners.  Once
cleaned with the clay, then wax(probably will not even need a cleaner/wax,
but just wax or what ever final finish product that you use.  All waxes are
not wax) as normal. Now you have waxed on top of your paint, and not on top
of the junk on your paint. You will be stunned to find how when you throw a
dry towel on your hood, that it will merely slide off as if going down a ski
slope.
5.  The original detail clay patent is owned by someone(perhaps in Japan).
Many knockoff's had come along and all were sued for patent infringement.
Most of the stuff on the market now is a different material(synthetic clay)
which works well.  I have used both and find that they both work well, but
that perhaps the original is slightly better.
6.  Be sure to wear plastic or rubber gloves when using.  The stuff is
usually blue or green or some color and will stain your hands and get under
your fingernails.  Spray a little lubricant on your gloves so it does not
stick to them.

7.  So now your finish is perfect, you wash your car(incidentally in my
original email I misspelled wash twice as was and my spellchecker did not
catch this of course)and it does not feel smooth.  This is because of new
buildup of junk from the atmosphere.  Merely detail clay your car before
drying it off(use a little lubricant).  Detail Clay does not have much
effect on removing wax so it just "scrapes" off the junk and your wax is
still there.

>From  numerous other offline comments that I have received, it is apparent
that Mr. Shenk is quite well known within our club.  Thank you for your
support.

Roger Schaaf
300 B, Calif
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Warren Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "Chrysler 300 list service" <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2004 9:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Power Buffer


> Warren:
>
> Detailing clay is similar in look and feel to the Silly Putty that you
> played with as child.
>
> However the beauty of it in detailing autos is its magical ability to
remove
> all types of materials from the finish of your paint or even glass.  These
> materials can be overspray from paints, perhaps the metallic particles in
> the air from railroad car wheels rubbing against steel rails, sap from
> trees, and many other substances in the air.
>
> The next time you was your car, just lightly drag your fingers over the
> finish.  You will probably note that it is not smooth like glass, but
> somewhat rough.  No matter how thoroughly you was even using a good soap
you
> will feel this stuff.  Now you can take a good cleaner/wax and with
intense
> scrubbing you can remove it, but you will work hard and also using
cleaners
> too much can damage the paint beyond repair.
>
> How detail clay works is as follows.  You wash your car, you spray it
> lightly with a lubricant such as Megiuars "Final Finish" or any of many
such
> products.  You then take a piece of this detail clay, about the size of a
> package of cigarettes or smaller, and rub it very lightly against this
> lubricated paint.  You then wipe clean with  a towel--this all will take
> about 20 seconds for a 2 foot square--and then drag your fingers across
what
> you just "clayed".  You will be stunned to note that your finish is as
> smooth as if you had just intensely polished it with a rubbing compound
and
> then waxed.
>
> The way this stuff works is almost like when you have used a razor blade
to
> clean paint drops off of a window.  Except it is like a million little
> blades scooping and removing all this residual crap that builds on your
> paint and does it far faster and easier then using compounds.
>
> The stuff has been around for about 10 years and was the best kept secret
of
> body shops(for removing overspray) and detail shops.  Now you can buy the
> stuff at most major auto supply stores such as Pep Boys etc.  Megiuars,
> Mothers and other companies sell kits with a small piece of clay and a
> lubricant for 15 to 20 dollars.  Do a Google search on detail clay.  You
> will find tons of info on it.   I assure you that it will astound you if
you
> have never used it before.
>
> I am going to post this to the group so that others who may not be
familiar
> with it can check it out.  I have posted info on this in the past.  Hope
you
> do not mind.
>
> Check out this website.  I think they are one of the best for detailing
> supplies and information.  Incidentally I love the Klasse products  and if
> you are not yet using microfibre cloths you are missing another excellent
> idea.  Order a couple that are shaped like windshield bug cleaners.  They
> are the handiest for cleaning the inside of your car windows and do a
better
> job then almost anything that you can use on windows to clean them in and
> out.
>
> Also love www.golustro.com for their polishing products.  I believe they
are
> among the best of the commercial type products.
>
> http://www.properautocare.com/
>
> The Cyclo buffer for those who do not know.  I love it for applying polish
> and or wax.  However for more intense work you still need to prepare with
a
> high speed rotary buffer such as Milwaukee, Dewalt, or Makita.
>
>
http://nuvitechemical.com/cgi-bin/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=NCS&Product_Code=EQ-137CP
>
> Hope this helps some of you all.
>
> Roger Schaaf
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Warren Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, October 29, 2004 7:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Power Buffer
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > This question should come to you off the list but maybe someone else
> doesn't
> > know what is the purpose of clay for auto finishes is either. I seem to
> > remember that it is used to remove small scratches? Like rubbing
compound?
> > Would appreciate a short run down on the stuff and brand name and thank
> you
> > for your efforts.
> >
> > Warren Anderson
> > Sedona,AZ
> >
> >
>




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