Painting Procedures. '65 300 reply

[John Hertog <crossram@xxxx>]

Hi Ryan,

There are more than one ways to tackle the job... the bare body was
originally painted at the factory by itself, and only then attached to the
subframe. For most of us this is impractical.

If subframe is off the car, have it painted or powdercoated and then all
components reassembled. What I like to do then is install the engine and
trans on the subframe, hook up the radiator and a fuel line to a can, and
run the freshly painted and detailed drivetrain , thus making sure there are
no stupid leaks that will necesitate pulling it out again ( rear main,
etc. ) . It's just so much easier working that way.

While this is going on, I clean, prime and paint the firewall, and also the
inner fenders and engine cpt stuff.

Then I roll the subframe with drivetrain back under the car, reattach it,
bolt the nose together, align it, etc. and touch up the pre-painted bolts
that have been scuffed up during reassembly.

Also, door jambs, inside of doors, inside of trunk lid and inside of trunk
are done same way - cleaned, primed, painted, and reinstalled and aligned.
Make sure to OVERLAP some paint on the edges all around.

Then , all one has to do is carefully backtape all the openings ! get 2"
or wider tape, roll it over itself lengthwise, apply to the edges of the
doors and trunklid and hood that have already been painted, and SHUT the
doors, trunk and hood ! The backtaping provides a seal for primer and dust
. Applied carefully, it works great.

Once outer bodywork is completed, and body primed, backtape is removed, car
is washed and cleaned and prepped for painting, and backtape once again
reapplied.
Outer body is then painted, wet sanded, buffed out, and backtape removed.
Now some careful wet sanding to remove the "edge" where backtaping was.

This is NOT the correct, concours-type restoration, way to do a car, but it
sure makes sense when restoring a nice driver to #2 condition.

John




----- Original Message -----
From: "ryan hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 3:21 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Painting Procedures. '65 300


> Hi everyone, I'm eager to hear some suggestions as to how I should paint
my
> '65 300 which is currently completely stripped down to the shell. My
concern
> is overspray. I will have the front subframe and suspension rebuilt and
> detailed prior to painting and reassembly and don't want to end up with
> primer and paint all over it, this is one problem. The other problem is
that
> if I paint all of the firewall etc. prior to assembling and aligning the
> fenders, hood, doors, and cowl ; I'll have primer spraying through the
seems
> onto the fresh paint when I'm applying building primer and blocking out
the
> body.
>
> My solution at this point is to prep the firewall and jambs, assemble and
> align the cars body parts, finish all of the bodywork and apply final
> sealer, then disassemble the front end parts again so I can paint the
> firewall and inner fenders etc. prior to final assembly before taking the
> car to the bodyshop for body paint.
>
> Anyone got any better suggestion? How did the factory do this? Should all
of
> the pieces (Rad support, innner fenders, gravel pans, etc.) be painted
alone
> prior to assembly and then re-painted once assembled or should they go on
> after the entire process is done? Little help.............?
>
> Sincerely, Ryan Hill ('65 300's)
>
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