Keep cool

["Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxx>]

>I would try a 160 degree thermostat or no thermostat during the drive
>there (reinstall the thermostat after you get to Phoenix)-
>always worked for me, over the years, on cars I owned that developed
>heating problems - especially on the road.


With all due respect, in the long term, these two 'fixes' are well known to
cause damage.

A 160 deg thermostat will open no more than a properly opoerating 180 deg
stat at full cooling demand. The main problem is that a 160 deg stat will
lead to sludging (been there and done that) no matter what oil change
interval is maintained.

As to no stat: First, an engine cooling system is designed to pump and
operate properly with the thermostat restriction in place. Remove that
designed in restriction and pumping problems can occur. Pull the stat on
some engines and instant overheat will occur. Chrysler RB engines in
motorhomes are also sensitive to stat design (require balanced sleeve). They
will overheat without Robertshaw design.

My practice is to change coolant AND stat every two years. My C300 (since
1959) still has original radiator core as does my '70 Dodge PU and my '65
Scout; all working fine.

Second problem is related to what happens when cooling load is suddenly
relieved (like when topping a hill). There will be a sudden surge of 'cold'
coolant dumped into the coolant jackets that is a quenching action that can
lead to block/head cracking. This I have not done but have seen many times.
Spark engines are bad enough but diesels are absolutely not tolerant.

I realize that this does fly in the face of some very popular theories but
these facts do need to be considered before one makes 'road repair'
alterations.

Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ