Rear Axle Bearings - more info?

[John Hertog <crossram@xxxx>]

Hi Bill,

If possible, I'd like a more detailed explanation of how to convert to
"Green"-type bearings on the older style rear ends, as those found in 1955
thru 1964 Chryslers. I was not aware that this modification could be made.
Have you personally done this to one of those rears ? Yes, I know this can
be done on the '65 and younger Mopars..

Also curious about the removal of the thrust pin, in SureGrip rears. What
does one do if it's a non-SureGrip? There is no thrust pin..

On this topic, I agree with John Nowasacki - the original design was good
for 30+ years or 150,000 + miles. Bearing failure usually occured when the
inner seal got weak and rear end fluid washed out the grease on the
bearing. This is easily remedied with all new seals, and a new bearing -
and should be good for another few decades.

As to what caused Pete Fitch's bearing failure in his "G" - no idea, but
perhaps a defective bearing, or improper installation.

John Hertog
Sag Harbor NY




----- Original Message -----
From: "William Huff" <whuff@xxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2003 10:56 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Rear Axle Bearings


> Hi Group,
>
> My experience with more than 30 older Mopars over my lifetime has been
that
> the rear seals start leaking, which messes up the brake shoes, which leads
> to pulling the axles. It was such a pain on the hubs with tapered fits
> that I started replacing the wheel bearings with the "Green" type of
> bearing. I have never had a problem with the ball type bearing, nor a
leak
> from the axle. The only hard part is that you have to remove the pumpkin
> and then remove the thrust pins, since the axles become free floating with
> the green bearings.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bill Huff