RE: `64 Ram K conv.- grommet for gas tank filler neck

From: "McGuire, Dwight" <dmcguire@xxxx>

Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 12:22:08 -0400

Hello to all, I am in search of gas tank filler neck grommet for my Ram K conv.. The original self destructed when removed to clean the tank. This is the last needed piece of the fuel puzzle before I can take it for it`s first smoky drive around the block! Thanks in advance, Dwight -----Original Message----- From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 6:20 AM To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [Chrysler300] Digest Number 610 To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 15 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: Rear Axle Bearings - more info? From: mr-320@xxxx 2. Re: Zerk Trivia !! From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxx> 3. New 300 C upside down From: "Bradley R. Teets, CPA/PFS, CFP" <brtcpapfs@xxxx> 4. SV: 57 Chrysler goodies..... From: Matts Wignell <wiggson@xxxx> 5. RE: Rear Axle Bearings - more info? From: "JOHN MC ADAMS" <clafong@xxxx> 6. Fw: Rear axle bearings From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxx> 7. RE: Rear Axle Bearings - more info? From: William Huff <whuff@xxxx> 8. From: Doug Mayer <mobydoug@xxxx> 9. 300C concept From: mjkern@xxxx 10. Re: My Big Fat Greek Spring Fling From: "Don Warnaar" <300country@xxxx> 11. 1962 Help... From: "jennifer allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxx> 12. starting after storage From: Jim Kelly <gmman4@xxxx> 13. Old Mr. Zerk Correction From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxx> 14. '62 help From: "Larri Stumpf" <moparlarri76@xxxx> 15. Re: 1962 Help... From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 05:30:07 -0700 (MST) From: mr-320@xxxx Subject: Re: Rear Axle Bearings - more info? john and all; back in 72, when they first came out, i replaced the axle brgs. on a 71 hemi gtx with the green full floating style and within 6 mos i had one of them collapse completely. i retrofitted back to stock mopar and havent tried them again since, havent had any trouble since either. i presume its possible that there was just something wrong with the individual brg, or the installation, but i doubt it, i think that the tapered rollers are just a much stronger system, and i intend to stay with them. for what it is worth!!!!! JEFF tucson az. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 07:39:45 -0500 From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxx> Subject: Re: Zerk Trivia !! I don't know: tell me. W ----- Original Message ----- From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxx> To: "Intl 300" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxx> Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2003 6:08 PM Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Zerk Trivia !! Ummm, down under they're called "grease nipples", I kid you not. How do you reckon they came by that name Wayne? A mechanic friend of mine who went to the US to apply his trade, never lived it down when he called your Zerks grease nipples. Owen Auckland, NZ ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne Graefen <wgraefen@xxxx> To: Intl 300 <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2003 1:08 AM Subject: [Chrysler300] Zerk Trivia !! > Just a little bit of trivia about the "grease zerk" and why in the world the thing got the name "zerk". > > Well it seems there was a man in Wisconsin who was looking to improve on the truly antique style of lubrication fittings used on the early cars up until about 1931 or 1932. Those were a much larger protruding fitting that did not make a very good seal to a grease gun. They had two prong ears like a park or tail light bulb and they were so large they occasionally got broken off by road debris. > > This Wisconsinite was an inventor of sorts and he did design an improved grease fitting. It was patented and very quickly adopted by the US auto industry. The man's name was Otto Zerk. I wouldn't know this if I had not been business partners with an older man from Wisconsin named Harold Jornt (now deceased) who had known Otto personally in his younger years. > > And now you know the rest of the story.... > > Wayne > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~--> > Get A Free Psychic Reading! Your Online Answer To Life's Important Questions. > http://us.click.yahoo.com/O10svD/Me7FAA/AG3JAA/8LmulB/TM > ------------------------------------------------------------------ ---~-> > > To send a message to this group, send an email to: > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 10:15:38 -0400 From: "Bradley R. Teets, CPA/PFS, CFP" <brtcpapfs@xxxx> Subject: New 300 C upside down I have read the interesting comments from those in the listserver who looked at the new 300C prototype. I did not see much to like to start with (and still don't). It was featured in our local newspaper's auto section last week. I handed the paper across the table to Marilyn to see it. Instantly, I saw the image of the original 300C hood and grill / headlight image when looking at the picture upside down. If you have not tried it yet, get a front shot of the new car from the top. Just another perspective. Sincerely, Bradley R. Teets, CPA/PFS, CFP [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 17:44:14 +0200 From: Matts Wignell <wiggson@xxxx> Subject: SV: 57 Chrysler goodies..... Hi Joe, To find parts here in Sweden for my 300C is very difficult, and I am very glad that my car is almost complete. If you have any list of parts you would like to sell that you can send me, I would appreciate that. I bought my C in 1989 but there are still a few missing parts. Thanks, Matts Wignell 3N571317 in Sweden -----Ursprungligt meddelande----- Fr}n: Kelly Pierce [SMTP:jkrestor300@xxxx] Skickat: den 26 april 2003 06:40 Till: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mne: [Chrysler300] 57 Chrysler goodies..... Greetings Group!! I found a bunch of 57 Chrysler parts today during a "treasure hunt" at a ranch 40 miles from home today. Some of what I found will work on C,D and E models. Please contact me privately for details and what parts I have. Most are near mint. Thanks, Joe Pierce 300J+Kx3+others.. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 09:39:10 -0700 From: "JOHN MC ADAMS" <clafong@xxxx> Subject: RE: Rear Axle Bearings - more info? As I understand the terminology correctly. A "Green" bearing is a simple ball bearing composed of a series of balls supported in a "Cage" that keeps them spaced apart to separate the load on the races. They are designed to primarily support the radial load on a shaft. That means, mostly just the downward force of the load on a horizontal shaft. A "Tapered Roller" bearing is comprised of exactly that. Instead of spherical balls, they contain tapered rollers that support the load both at a right angle to the shaft and in a thrust vector towards one end of the shaft or the other. If you want to support a thrust vector in both directions on the shaft, they are used in pairs. Our front spindles use two tapered roller bearings. The inner one takes care of both a downward load and the sideways thrust in an outwards direction. The outer one takes care of both the downward load and the sideways thrust in an inner direction. This keeps the rolling element (the hub with drum or disk) centered between the bearings. On the rear axle application, the stock design calls for a tapered roller bearing on the end of each axle (with seals). This allows for load support both downward and for any lateral or sideways forces. If our cars were to just run in a straight line without any cornering the "Green" bearings would be plenty adequate. But as soon as you start to go around a corner the "Green" bearings are trying to carry additional lateral loads. The bottom line is the "Green" bearings are cheaper to make. Our cars (and most other ones too) were originally designed with tapered roller bearings and deserve them. John Mc Adams -----Original Message----- From: mr-320@xxxx [mailto:mr-320@xxxx] Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2003 5:30 AM To: John Hertog Cc: William Huff; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Rear Axle Bearings - more info? john and all; back in 72, when they first came out, i replaced the axle brgs. on a 71 hemi gtx with the green full floating style and within 6 mos i had one of them collapse completely. i retrofitted back to stock mopar and havent tried them again since, havent had any trouble since either. i presume its possible that there was just something wrong with the individual brg, or the installation, but i doubt it, i think that the tapered rollers are just a much stronger system, and i intend to stay with them. for what it is worth!!!!! JEFF tucson az. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 12:38:36 -0400 From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxx> Subject: Fw: Rear axle bearings Hi to all, forwarding to the list as per Jim's request! jOHN ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim McMullan" <macthehammer@xxxx> To: "crossram" <crossram@xxxx> Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2003 11:41 AM Subject: Rear axle bearings > > Don't know why any one would want to replace a Timken taper bearing whit a > ball bearing( unless you love General Moters Engineering) A ball has just a vary > small point of contact while the taper has the whole length of the bearing to > carry the load.When I was racing dirt track we had to dodge Axles and wheel > assembly all the time that came out of the Buck Roadmasters .Of coarse we had to > double the wheal centers to prevent tearing out the wheel so we putting some > pretty severer side loads on the suspension.I have sean this happen on the > hiway.with G.M. junk.Please Forward to list so we can get a conversion going. > Jim McMullan 300 F > > --- > > --- macthehammer@xxxx > > --- EarthLink: It's your Internet. > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 13:28:13 -0400 From: William Huff <whuff@xxxx> Subject: RE: Rear Axle Bearings - more info? Hi John and Group, This discussion has been going on for at least 20 years that I am aware of. Same arguments, same logic. There is no doubt the tapered bearing is stronger, it is also a lot more temperamental. If the end play is not set correctly, spalling and brinnelling are the result. Also, if the end play is not set properly, the resulting slack is hard on the seals. As I recall, Art Morrison developed the green bearing specifically for Mopars. I can't speak to roundy round racing, but I have been drag racing two Mopars in the 425-450 HP (rated, not rear wheel) range for some 20 years and never had a problem (or a leaky seal) yet. One of the cars was my daily transportation for several years. Have pulled the pumpkins several times to change ratios and just slid the axles back in. The same stock retainers are used, so the safety retention of the axles remains as the factory intended. I like the green bearings and intend to continue using them unless strong evidence is presented that they really don't work properly. My experience does not indicate that. Bill Huff At 4/27/03 -0700 09:39 AM, you wrote: >As I understand the terminology correctly. > >A "Green" bearing is a simple ball bearing composed of a series of balls >supported in a "Cage" that keeps them spaced apart to separate the load on >the races. They are designed to primarily support the radial load on a >shaft. That means, mostly just the downward force of the load on a >horizontal shaft. > >A "Tapered Roller" bearing is comprised of exactly that. Instead of >spherical balls, they contain tapered rollers that support the load both >at a right angle to the shaft and in a thrust vector towards one end of >the shaft or the other. If you want to support a thrust vector in both >directions on the shaft, they are used in pairs. > >Our front spindles use two tapered roller bearings. The inner one takes >care of both a downward load and the sideways thrust in an outwards >direction. The outer one takes care of both the downward load and the >sideways thrust in an inner direction. This keeps the rolling element >(the hub with drum or disk) centered between the bearings. > >On the rear axle application, the stock design calls for a tapered roller >bearing on the end of each axle (with seals). This allows for load >support both downward and for any lateral or sideways forces. > >If our cars were to just run in a straight line without any cornering the >"Green" bearings would be plenty adequate. But as soon as you start to go >around a corner the "Green" bearings are trying to carry additional >lateral loads. > >The bottom line is the "Green" bearings are cheaper to make. Our cars >(and most other ones too) were originally designed with tapered roller >bearings and deserve them. > >John Mc Adams > > >-----Original Message----- >From: mr-320@xxxx [mailto:mr-320@xxxx] >Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2003 5:30 AM >To: John Hertog >Cc: William Huff; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Rear Axle Bearings - more info? > > >john and all; > back in 72, when they first came out, i replaced the axle brgs. >on a 71 hemi gtx with the green full floating style and within 6 mos i >had one of them collapse completely. i retrofitted back to stock mopar >and havent tried them again since, havent had any trouble since either. >i presume its possible that there was just something wrong with the >individual brg, or the installation, but i doubt it, i think that the >tapered rollers are just a much stronger system, and i intend to stay >with them. > for what it is worth!!!!! > > JEFF > tucson az. > >Yahoo! Groups >Sponsor<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=249982.3179269.4495679.2595810/D=egroupweb/S= >1706713852:HM/A=1524963/R=0/*http://hits.411web.com/cgi-bin/autoredir?camp= >556&lineid=3179269&prop=egroupweb&pos=HM> > >To send a message to this group, send an email to: >Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > >For list server instructions, go to ><http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm>http://www.chrysler300cl >ub.com/yahoolist/inst.htm > >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: >Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the ><http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>Yahoo! Terms of Service. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 8 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 17:07:46 -0400 From: Doug Mayer <mobydoug@xxxx> Subject: The top on my 68 300 is original. Little parts of it peel off. Vinyl is shrinking and stressing stitching mightily. Finally, the top is a baby poop green, acceptable (barely) in 1968, but not 35 years later. It looks like Legendary doesn't do tops anymore. J.C. Whitney doesn't have the variety they once had, I think. Hydro-e-lectric advertises tops. What do those of you who have replaced convertible tops recommend for choice of tops. I have concluded that going topless probably won't work. Thanks in advance. Doug Mayer <mobydoug@xxxx> PS> You ARE coming to the meet in Maine Sept. 15-18, 2004 I sincerely hope. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 9 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 17:48:29 -0500 From: mjkern@xxxx Subject: 300C concept For all 300 devotees! I agree entirely with our member from Australia that we as a group should send a message to Daimler-Chrysler that we hope fervently that D.C. marketing would have the wisdom to name the next 300 the N. Even Nissan named the new Z car the 350, they didn't go back to the 240! Or just call it a 300 and give it a solid 300 horsepower engine! In the day of political correctness I definitely think that this should be acceptable to D.C. I still believe that the 300C concept is just being used as a concept name to grab attention for nostalgia. I'm sure some of our leaders know the movers and shakers at D.C. and could gently communicate the concern of our members. Even Mercedes didn't come out with another 190SL or call its diesels 220 or 300TD. I now can understand how the owner of a '55 T-bird must have felt when Ford came out with the new 2002.....sorry but my wife had to have one....the first vehicle in our 28 year relationship that SHE voiced any desire for...so I bought the first Ford I ever owned! Still this was a Thunderbird and not a 300C...there was an understandable generic legacy in the name. D.C. could position themselves and market themselves well by giving the new 300 the muscle it deserves and appease us all by calling it a 300 or 300N....they still have 13 more model years to go through the alphabet!! Rob Kern ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 10 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 19:08:08 -0400 From: "Don Warnaar" <300country@xxxx> Subject: Re: My Big Fat Greek Spring Fling Larry (and all), Sap is water soluble, so Windex will work. Plain water should do the job. A light coating of sap will come right off. For a heavy deposit, let it soak awhile. Don Warnaar ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 11 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 16:51:45 -0700 From: "jennifer allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxx> Subject: 1962 Help... Put in a voltage regulator and the gauge was properly flopping around and going to the charge side when the rpm's were raised. Now the gauge is stuck dead center and goes towards the negative side when I turn on the lights. I tried a spare regulator and the same result. Do I need to buy a new regulator and try that or does this mean that the alternator is gone? I have a brand new battery. Put a rebuilt power booster in and the brake pedal travels all of the way to the floor, before actuating the master, thus stopping the car. Its as if the booster rod is traveling too far. Is there an adjustment that can make the booster rod travel less to actuate the master? Or, did my booster rebuilder do a bad job? Thanks! Matt Allyn [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 12 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 17:21:40 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Kelly <gmman4@xxxx> Subject: starting after storage suggestions please: when my 300g is not started for long periods of time, i have to pump the gas SEVERAL times for it to start. then of course i run into the problem of fouled spark plugs. if the primed the carbs instead, should i prime both carbs or just one. if only one, which one should i do - by driver or passenger side. to some of you, this probably sounds like a dumb question. but i don't know. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. http://search.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 13 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 19:23:57 -0500 From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxx> Subject: Old Mr. Zerk Correction This old mind was close but no cigar. The man was Oscar Ulysses Zerk (not "Otto") and you can read about him at http://www.kenoshacounty.com/community/book3folder/zerk.html Thanks to Marv Raguse for the name correction. In the Kenosha news story, it indicates that Otto was the inventor of the earlier style grease zerk, not the style we use today so now I'm a little confused because that is not the way I recall it being told by my friend and business associate Harold Jornt. But then, Harold was older than I am now when he was telling the story. Then too, whoever proof read the Zerk story titled it Oscar V. Zerk and his middle name was Ulysses which does not start with a V. So few if any mirrors give a perfect reflection, especially not the rearview mirrors. Wayne [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 14 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 18:25:28 -0700 From: "Larri Stumpf" <moparlarri76@xxxx> Subject: '62 help On the subject of alternators/regulators heres my two cents worth: first I strongly recommend that you put some sort of protection in the output circuit of the alternator, I've seen several mopar alternators that the output post shorted to ground and therefore smoked the wire and any other wire close to it all the way back to the battery(that means from the alternator thru the firewall to the amp meter back thru the firewall to the battery), real messy if not devastating.I put a 50 amp resetable circuit breaker in line on the passenger side of the firewall( i've been able to get these at the local car stereo installation shop). Secondly, as more and more of us upgrade our ignition systems to electronic distributors heres a tip: the electronic distributors dont like the old points style voltage regulators and we dont like the look of the new solidstate style replacements... I've found that the replacement regulaters that Auto Zone sells are acually solidstate and phisically about the same as the old point style just not as tall and if you take the cover off the old points style reg and cut the bolt down flanges off it will fit right over the new style.I actually have been collecting the oldest of the regulators that had the foward look stamped into them for years and even had a rubber stamp made to put the original warning, etc on a freshly painted cover.It looks nos and works great, larri _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 15 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 18:30:30 -0700 From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxx> Subject: Re: 1962 Help... Matt, One thing you might try is to use a jumper wire from the battery to the field connection on the alternator, then if the alternator charges steady at full output you'll know it's all right. Make sure all the ground connections are good and all the wires are in good shape. If you need a new regulator, you might consider updating to the newer, solid state kind (it's not "correct" but it's a whole lot better). Mike At 04:51 PM 4/27/2003 -0700, jennifer allyn wrote: >Put in a voltage regulator and the gauge was properly flopping around >and going to the charge side when the rpm's were raised. > >Now the gauge is stuck dead center and goes towards the negative side >when I turn on the lights. I tried a spare regulator and the same >result. > >Do I need to buy a new regulator and try that or does this mean that the >alternator is gone? > >I have a brand new battery. > > > >Put a rebuilt power booster in and the brake pedal travels all of the >way to the floor, before actuating the master, thus stopping the car. >Its as if the booster rod is traveling too far. Is there an adjustment >that can make the booster rod travel less to actuate the master? Or, >did my booster rebuilder do a bad job? > > > >Thanks! > >Matt Allyn > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >To send a message to this group, send an email to: >Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > >For list server instructions, go to >http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm > >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: >Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

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